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Old 02-15-2010 | 01:27 PM
  #1711  
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Originally Posted by jjshbetz11
from what I understand from previous posts is that your idle gap is too big and compensating with too fat on the lowend. Set idle gap to 1mm and then set low end flush, then adjust low end for good idle after engine and chassis is at running temp. hope this helps
What's the glow plug of choice? Im getting ready to break mine in today out here in sunny AZ.
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Old 02-15-2010 | 01:34 PM
  #1712  
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Originally Posted by hdcruzer
This is a question for the guys running the new 2010 B5. First off the motor is broken in, little more than a gallon through it. Second this thing is ballistic. The thing will run at 230 all day long. The problem Im having with it and one of the guys I race with is having the same problem, Is that it will rev real high for about ten seconds and then drop to a normal idle and will idle all day long. My older B5 does not do this. It will drop to a normal idle and stay there. Ive tried tuning all different ways and get the same results. So has he.Is there anybody else out there that has encountered this, and if so what was the remedy. Thanks in advance........

From the Ron Paris Tuning Bible Sticky....

Carburetor Needle balance:

It has come to our attention some racers are making the mistake of setting the idle speed opening to wide [high idle] and setting the bottom end too rich! This will give a false normal idle speed even though the speed is set to high because it “loads up” the engine with excess fuel causing the idle to be lower than set!


The end result is a very unstable idling engine that surges and may cut out as full throttle is applied because the over rich bottom end can disguise a too lean TOP end setting!!!



Let’s address this a little more in depth.


Idle speed opining set too wide:


It is possible to set the idle screw adjustment in to far but yet the idle speed is not high. Even though the air regulation [carb barrel or slide] may be set to a position that would normally equal a vary fast idle, the idle is low because the low speed mixture adjustment is set so rich that the engine loads up with excess fuel and the engine goes into what’s commonly called a four cycle idle.


One tell tail sign of this is if after reving up the completely warmed up engine it tends to idle fast for a few seconds then drops to lower idle speed. If you start leaning the bottom end a little at a time [then repeat the reving up and idle test] and it takes longer before the idle drops your going in the right direction.


Eventually as you keep leaning the bottom the idle will stay too high, now it is time to lower the idle to were it belongs by re adjusting the idle screw!
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Old 02-15-2010 | 01:34 PM
  #1713  
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where you are at I would go with a P3
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Old 02-15-2010 | 01:37 PM
  #1714  
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Originally Posted by jjshbetz11
from what I understand from previous posts is that your idle gap is too big and compensating with too fat on the lowend. Set idle gap to 1mm and then set low end flush, then adjust low end for good idle after engine and chassis is at running temp. hope this helps
Not the case. My idle gap is barely visable. Probably about a half mm if that. Have low speed leaned for good launch and high speed is set to run at 230. Remember this is 2010 carb, whole different ball game, totally different than the previous version.
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Old 02-15-2010 | 01:41 PM
  #1715  
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U say barely visible..... is this with the venturi insert in? If so take it out and then set to 1mm. Trust me it works. At properly tunedd U should not seee the gap with insert in
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Old 02-15-2010 | 01:54 PM
  #1716  
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Lean low speed more intill the idle will stay for 20 sec or so and the idle will be high.Then turn the idle screw down till the idle is were you like it.Richen the high speed needle a little bit. btw I have the 2010 carb and this thing is fast with the 2013 pipedid not think it was going to be that fast as people were saying.I say 2013 pipe for truggy a 2057 pipe for buggy. hope this helps
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Old 02-15-2010 | 03:12 PM
  #1717  
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Originally Posted by hdcruzer
Not the case. My idle gap is barely visable. Probably about a half mm if that. Have low speed leaned for good launch and high speed is set to run at 230. Remember this is 2010 carb, whole different ball game, totally different than the previous version.


Not to be mean but I do believe tunning the carbs is kinda universal unless if its a GRP. They tend to like to be fat on the bottom and lean on the top
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Old 02-15-2010 | 03:57 PM
  #1718  
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Originally Posted by jjshbetz11
U say barely visible..... is this with the venturi insert in? If so take it out and then set to 1mm. Trust me it works. At properly tunedd U should not seee the gap with insert in
Thanks for the help. I think ive got it now. Turned out till there was no gap with restrictor in. Leaned the bottom end alot, probably close to 2 turns in from flush. Backed out the high speeed about an hour. Seems to idle much better, dosnt high rev before dropping like it did before. Only thing is if i dont blip the throttle after about 10 secs of idling it will die, maybe a lttle fatter up top?
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Old 02-15-2010 | 04:24 PM
  #1719  
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Originally Posted by hdcruzer
Thanks for the help. I think ive got it now. Turned out till there was no gap with restrictor in. Leaned the bottom end alot, probably close to 2 turns in from flush. Backed out the high speeed about an hour. Seems to idle much better, dosnt high rev before dropping like it did before. Only thing is if i dont blip the throttle after about 10 secs of idling it will die, maybe a lttle fatter up top?
Leaner on the bottom until you get that idle to go at least 20 seconds. Pinch test it before you do so.

I dont think the high needle will help the idle.
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Old 02-15-2010 | 05:07 PM
  #1720  
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Originally Posted by jjshbetz11
where you are at I would go with a P3
Thanks fo the info.
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Old 02-15-2010 | 05:39 PM
  #1721  
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This might be a noob mistake, but is the 2057 pipe also called something else? I'm looking at getting a B5 for the season and already have a 2013 and was looking at a 2057 but I cannot find it. I see it as a set with the Orion motors on Amain but not by itself. Does anyone know where to get one other than ebay or used on here?
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Old 02-15-2010 | 05:40 PM
  #1722  
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Originally Posted by Slimsh8t
Thanks fo the info.
I forgot to tell ya if it gets real hot outside say 95+ go with a P5 or for cheaper plug go with odonnells 97t (witch you could run when hot also)
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Old 02-15-2010 | 05:55 PM
  #1723  
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Hey Ron, anyway I can get some stickers?
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Old 02-15-2010 | 06:45 PM
  #1724  
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the WERKS 2057 is just called a 2057. Most places are out of stock. Thats probrably why you arent seeing them. They should be in stock at A-Main hobbies this week. Great pipe.
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Old 02-15-2010 | 07:44 PM
  #1725  
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I know this engine comes shimmed for 30% fuel, how many shims should be removed to run 20%? I could run 30% but I have always run 20% since I only really club race. Just ordered it from amain with a 2013 pipe.

Thanks!
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