anyone try this engine with:

OS 2050 pipe
Losi RE-11
JP-2
Ofna 2027
JP-3

those are what I have not being used right now and was looking for some feedback

Out of those choices The JP2 in my opinion would be the best choice I ran all of them except for the 2050.


The 2013,2057 are the best pipes for the B5 in my opinion and a lot of guys on here like the TTR 2035 (which I will test this weekend) and see how it compares to my favorite pipe the 2013 for this engine.

This engine has top and bottom. It hauls! I Have had a couple of these since thye first came out. I race 2-3 times month and they NEVER let me down, And they are as fast. I have never been pulled on a straight and i have never wanted more bottom punch. It has a ton!

Fuel mileage is great I get from 9-10.5 minutes in my buggy.

I have to say the one thing I love the most about this engine. Every other engine I have had( and I have had a lot!!) I have not been fully happy with something, Either not enough bottom in my truggy, or not enough top, or the needled for tuning always had to be messed with,leaks,etc.... I honestly have not had 1 issue with either of mine, one has e 4 gallons and the other 6 and both still have awesome compression and run perfect with no slop in the rod, and bearings are perfect too!! Buy one you will be glad you did. Dont wast your time trying something else, there are a lot of good racers on this forum and nothing bad to say.( oh ya, and Kortz is killin' it with the B5!!) That say's something!!!

? are you guys sealing up this engine anywhere?

Thanks heidman. I already have the engine. But I want to try some of the pipes I already have before I drop another 100 clams on another pipe. I have not even taken the engine out of the box yet

NOt sealing anything on mine...

I seal mine just to be safe.... I do it no matter who makes it. I agree with heidmann1. NEVER had a problem with this engine. Racing for the first time this saturday @ Rev race. (Finally)

I have never sealed anything on the 3 motors that I run.

I always seal my engines, as long as you seal the outside and make sure nothing gets in side the engine it will never hurt anything and it can only help. But first I take em apart and clean em out good with Fuel and then slather all the parts with light sewing machine oil for lubrication during break in..My Nova +4 had some metal shavings inside and the bottom of the button had metal flashing that was left from the tapping process. Most engines come clean but why take the chance, 1 small sliver of metal getting caught between your P/S and its rebuild time

Thanks for the input on sealing the engines guys, I think that I'm going to do it just to be on the safe side.

how about the jp-1 pipe

Jp1 is ok , It actually feels pretty similar to the Jp2 on the B5,But i lost a lot of fuel mileage with that pipe. So far Im loving the 2013 but I am going to try the ttr 2035 pipe tomorrow, its the only pipe left I want to try, BUt I already dont like that it is so long! I will have to cut my body out in m8 D8 in the front becasue it sticks out the front. Also the pressure nipple is right on top when mounted and it also hits my body. NOt angled in toward the engine like most others so it wont run one the body. I will probrably try it ans then put my 2013 back on. I dont wanto hack up my body for the pipe, BUt I will at least try it out.

It's unfathomable that I could leave a brand new B5 sitting untouched for a week. But somehow I managed to do it (it helped that highs here in North Florida were around 40F the last 14 days).

I began the break-in process tonight using Ron's method with one change ... I used the Hudy break-in bench I bought last year for the first two tanks. I couldn't let this expensive piece of machinery not provide any value. It came in very handy while breaking in 2 GO's plus a P/S replacement. All three of those times it took me 30-45 minutes to get the engine to fire up.

Prior to firing it up, I sealed the backplate and pinch bolts. The P/S was nicely lubricated and I didn't see any obvious manufacturing defects. On mounting the engine up I noticed that the oval logo gets in the way of the front bolts, but I worked around that problem.

The B5 started immediately and ran smoothly. In fact, I'm a tiny bit worried that I couldn't get the temps up above 120F, even after using an engine warmer. The second tank did better, but only up to 175. I wrapped two heavy duty paper towels around the head to keep them up.

Tonight I will put it in the Z01B in preparation for final break-in tomorrow.

Does anyone know the base settings on the new B5 carb? Is it flush on top? And I cant rember on the bottom. I've got about 7 tanks on mine and it seems too lean on top because the smoke kinda tapers off at top end speed. When I richened the top slightly it would'nt perform.I just want to start from base settings with the tune. Thanks

I believe Ron always said base settings are flush on both ends.

Ya I kind of was thinking that. Mine is in quite a bit in from flush on top now.Maybe a full turn and a half. I know its probably too much, but thats what it took to run.I will try flush and tune a little more. I didnt touch my idle gap outa the box and just set the idle with the low speed needle like I read on here from Ron. It does seem to idle up high at first when I start it and then the idle drops, so i dunno