Little backed up on PM's but I'll take a look at them later today and get back to you.

Regards,

Ron

I have some questions which I hope Ron or some you other B5ers can answer. I have a gallon and a half through my b5 now. It runs really well except for a few problems. My carb slide sticks. It is in a Losi and Ive done evrything that can be done to make it right. Shaved the housing cleaned the slide as per Rons instructions. Still sticks and pulls the servo tray just not as bad. Can anybody offer some more suggestions or does it sound like the carb is bad ? Next question, my LS needle is out 3.5 turns from bottom does this sound like its to fat still. If I lean it out much more I lose my smoke trail. Running about 220 like this. The reason I ask is because I know if I lean it out more I can back my idle screw out and that almost completely stops my slide problem. With the restrictor in you can barley see any gap at all on my slide. Next question after only a gallon and a half of gas I can turn the motor over by hand from the flywheel. Does not seem to have much compression at all. Like I said earlier the motor runs great. My Losi 454 has 7 gallons through it and it still has tons of compression cant get it to turn buy hand . Is this normal ? I know this is long, but thanks in advance.........

hdcruzer, a quick response to your questions:

a) My carb slide sticks. It is in a Losi and Ive done evrything that can be done to make it right. Shaved the housing cleaned the slide as per Rons instructions. Still sticks and pulls the servo tray just not as bad. Can anybody offer some more suggestions or does it sound like the carb is bad ?

* I think I explained what caused the slide to stick in the past, specifically your linkage set up. The easy and quick way to see if the slide is possibly now bent of if it is the linkage set up is still wrong is simply to pop the linkage off of the ball connector on the slide. If the carb slide moves back and forward freely by hand and is nice and smooth it's still your linkage. When you followed my earlier suggestion about cleaning up (any flashing in the idle stop groove on the slide that could have been caused by the servo pulling at an angle on the slide) the slide and re-assembled everything did it move freely by hand afterwards? If so again it's the linkage.

b) Next question, my LS needle is out 3.5 turns from bottom does this sound like its to fat still. If I lean it out much more I lose my smoke trail. Running about 220 like this. The reason I ask is because I know if I lean it out more I can back my idle screw out and that almost completely stops my slide problem. With the restrictor in you can barley see any gap at all on my slide.

* Your needle settings are going to vary depending on the specific set up (plug, fuel, pipe, length of fuel line, length of pressure line) and weather conditions (altitude, humidity, air density, temperature) that you are running at. So it's going to be really difficult for anyone to tell you that your settings are either too fat or too lean. Having said that though to me 3.5 turns our on the LS I would think would be on the leaner side which indicates to me that you are probably too rich on the top. 220 is not hot (unless you are running in some kind of extreme weather conditions i.e. 30 deg. F) and with any of the usual high oil content fuels i.e. Byrons, Sidewinder etc. you should be blowing a steady smoke stream.

As I'm writing this I'm sitting here playing with one of the new alloy carbs and I can get about a 2.5mm idle gap showing with the 7mm restrictor in without feeling any binding when moving the slide by hand. This is way more than you would ever need or want to run with a broken in engine. I just checked one of the composite carbs and can get a similar idle gap. So just curious where your HS needle is set at right now?

Also you stated "The reason I ask is because I know if I lean it out more I can back my idle screw out and that almost completely stops my slide problem. With the restrictor in you can barley see any gap at all on my slide". If you can barely see any gap on your slide at all then leaning it out (your LS) is not going to be the solution. When you lean your LS you are going to need to reduce your air gap as your idle speed will increase. Why do you state that backing out your idle screw is going to completely stop your slide problem?

c) Next question after only a gallon and a half of gas I can turn the motor over by hand from the flywheel. Does not seem to have much compression at all. Like I said earlier the motor runs great. My Losi 454 has 7 gallons through it and it still has tons of compression cant get it to turn buy hand . Is this normal ?

* This engine is designed for you to be able to race with it relatively quickly. The fact that you can turn the engine over by hand by the flywheel indicates that it is broken in. You do not want a performance engine (when it's performing at it's peak) to get stuck at TDC because it means that there is a huge amount of friction being generated as your piston basically starts to get stuck as it moves towards the top of the stroke. The only reason that there is metal pinch in new racing engines is because the pistons are initially machined to be slightly over sized. This is because our engines do not have rings so during what we call break in the piston is basically worn down to conform to the taper that is machined into the sleeve.

Once it reaches that point the engine seals optimally (again we don't have rings so it's the piston exactly taking on the shape of the sleeve plus a little oil that is creating that seal). When this happens the metal pinch (which again is bad) is gone, now and engine produces the most power and is what most would call at it's prime or is in a state where it will provide the maximum amount of power and also run time. This you want, a lot of friction and an engine getting stuck all the time you do not. That equals one thing and that is friction and friction is not good for our engines as it robs performance. Ideally if we could we would make racing engines that do not need to be broken in but honestly the precision necessary to do this is even beyond what the Italians can currently do. Not take a lower cost Asian and the easy way to make an engine is just make a large, over sized piston and stick it into a small sleeve. Your engine basically never breaks in. Ya it will last forever but in the interim it is never making the power that a comparable racing mill will make. Again we are talking about metal pinch. This is bad from a performance stand point, what is important is compression. When this is gone it is completely noticable right off the bat because you will no longer be able to get the engine to maintain a steady, proper idle.

Hope this helps clarify a couple of things. Please let me know what you find when you look at the slide.

Regards,

Ron

Thanks Ron, Ive got the carb slide working almost flawless now. Maybe a couple more tweaks and it will be fine. You were curious as to where my high speed needle is set. Its probably about a quarter turn to half turn in from flush. Dont get me wrong this thing sings. I can let it sit at idle for 3 secs and nail it no hesitation, good bye. I think I just need to go to the track and do some more tweaking to my tune and go from there. Thanks for your time and help......

So I am looking to purchase this engine for my new truggy in the next month. I have read most of this thread, and its quite an informative read.

I do have a question though, I am looking to get a tuned muffler for this engine. Is this muffler:

Team Orion EFRA 2013 Tuned Pipe Set
( http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Tuned-Pipe-Set )

the same at this muffler:

Werks Racing 2013 One Piece Tuned Pipe w/Smooth Flow Manifold (2010 Model).

I have read that the Werks 2013 is the best match for this engine, but that muffler concerns me as I have read and heard from a few people that the muffler is rather thin and dents rather easily.

Any info/recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

The new WERKS 2013 is thicker aluminum and has a reinforced stinger. Here is the link . http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...old-2010-Model

The older WERKS pipes no-one sells anymore they were the thin ones. I Would stick with the werks brand pipes. Orion and trinity I dont think the quality is quite as good.

No worries, I'm just trying to give you some basic info regarding engines with the metal pinch/compression explination. I talk to so many people on here with a wide range of experience levels so I never know who understand/knows what lol! The questions that I asked regarding the slide and carb settings was to try and get a better understanding of exactly where the problem lies. Based on your responce it sounds like the slide is ok, so have you narrowed it downtown to a linkage related issue?

Also as far as the tune is concerned at 1/4 to 1/2 turn in from flush on the HS and a temp of 220 I'm definarely thinking that you are rich on the top and lean on the LS. If this Im indeed correct this is not a good thing and having your engine set like this is probably the easiest way to wear it out prematurely! if your motor is already broken in I would suggest that you lean the HS roughly 1 turn from where it is at. Pop the air filter off and set the air gap to about 0.5mm with the insert inside (using the idle screw). Richen the LS needle about 1/2 turn, put the filter back on and fire it up. Be carefull as it might (probably will) have a high idle right off the bat. If sostart richening the LS to bring it down. Keep on doing so until you get a smooth steady idle then toss it on the track and start tuning the HS to get the performance that you want. What this should do is make the engine less finicky to tune and by running a richer bottom you will he able to lean the HS further to get more power and/or increased run time if you want. It is also a much safer way of running your engine as you are less likely to overly lean the motor possibly blowing it and/or prematurely wearing it out (as in the sleeve which will be seen by a loss of compression). People always tweak on the HS needle when you are on the stand and if you think about how the carb works if you have a lean LS to start with and then your pit person leans the HS more, it also affects your LS and you end up with an even leaner bottom, again not good. They go to far and boom, you've just had a bad day!

The thing with the lean LS and rich HS is that this conditon is often masked especily if it's with a driver that tends to drive punched as in allways grabbing full throttel (WOT). In any case I'm rambling lol, give the stuff above a shot and get back to me on the linkage/slide question.

Regards,

Ron

Ron,
Sent you an e-mail. No rush on a response as it's nothing really important.

Thanks,
-DC-

i am thinking about this engine or the odonnell to run at the silver state wich one should i get

Your in the Werks thread so I would say get the Werks Even if you were in the OD thread I would say get the Werks. Thank god Silver State is at a new track, the old track would Kill motors with all the dust. I wish it was still at the Volkswagen junk yard, that was the good old days.

what would be a good exhoust for it so u can get great bottom end and top and is the engine good for top end or bottome end

The motor is good all over the power band, best $200 you will ever spend on a motor. The 2013 pipe is the best but it is 1/2 as much as the motor The Thunder Tiger 2050 AXE 2060 and even the Dynimite or Ofna 086 will work. I have driven this motor in about 5 cars and Truggies in Arizona and they all rip. My friend Chris just hit the 6 gallon mark on his and it stiil runs like new. If you can give up a little fuel mi. Try the JP1 yes I said JP1. the motor likes this pipe ALOT.

wow thats great cant wait to get it

Good luck in Vegas!

thanx i hope to see u hear