I ran 38mm front & 41mm rear. But I found after each race it had changed & I'd have to adjust the the spring load to get it correct again.......


Pete.

Hey Alan, I'm pretty happy with the On power steering, I was looking for more Off power.


Pete.

the ride height will always be different after a race. when the oils and springs have warmed up they tend to let the car sag down a little
i just set mine before the first heat and then leave it all day. by the next heat the car is back to its origional height

Try the short ackerman plate on the steering.

Any of you guys run full droop??? How does it drive?

Hi guys i need a flex tune for a 1.0 truggy that is in good shape, anybody got one?? I just got in to racing a old truggy, and what to try one out.

Has anyone ever used the Dragon Racing Alloy Steel Center CVD for Team Losi 8ight 2.0 Buggy or Truggy? Just seeing how they hold up over the Losi or if they are the same part.

Thanks,

Hey is it hard to convert the 1.0 into the 2.0......if some one could give me a little list that would be more than appreciated!!! THanks!!
****never mind just found it a few pages back****

i answered your question on the first one u post about the eight-t

I just started racing the 1.0 truggy and I race it on a very tight indoor track that is rutty with traction, does anyone have any setup tips or race on a trck like this, set up I am tring this weekend is 5kf 7kc 2kr the shock oil is 40f piston 54- 30r piston 55. With 2 spacers in front of rear hubs.tires Are calbers

I would try Mike Truhe's setup:
http://losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/8IGHT...-challenge.pdf

I ran this setup everywhere, play around with different tires to get your truck dialed in.

i have a question im gone to make my eight-t 1.0 to a eight-t 2.0 and just get the 2.0 chassis. and the longer rear center cvd, but i know im gone to, proberty have to get the eight-t .2.0 body do i just need to get the 2.0t body, mounts or just put my eight -t 1.0 body, mount in a diffrent hole in the eight -t 1.0 shock tower in the rear.

Ok guys got an almost convert here....... coming from the mooo cars I bought a used 8-T 2.0 and 8-B 2.0 to try out for a few weeks......... the buggy is doing fine in all areas but I need some help with the truggy. 1st problem..... How to make a clutch live more than a couple quals? I put all new silver losi HD shoes, new silver springs and all new losi bearings(the brown rubber shielded ones) CB looks great no grooves and the flywheel pins are good. Put it all together 2x this last weekend, Will go about 2 quals b-4 it eats bearings and breaks a sping and locks up. Also the clutch seemed like it didnt have much snap to it, felt like the springs were to soft and bogging the motor, This is the same motor that ran great in my 6T with the mugen clutch set-up on it until I swapped it over to the losi this last week. I have heard you can run a mugen flywheel/CB setup by flipping the motor mounts around backwards is that true??????? 2nd problem....... The clicking diffs landing jumps? it has the aluminum inserts in the rear already...shim the piss out of them till tight/notchy and let them wear in?

Interesting switch from Mugen to Losi, but glad to see you here. I have not experienced any trouble with my clutch on the 8T 2.0, other than normal wear and tear. It should last you a lot longer than a couple qualifiers though. Here are a few possible reasons for the premature failure of the clutch:
1) Check that the engine is perfectly aligned. Use the guides on the chassis to help you. If it's not straight, it can put additional stress on the clutch bearings and they'll wear out quickly.

2) Try running 2 gold and 2 green springs instead of the silver springs. This will engage the clutch a bit sooner and hopefully limit the slippage that you might have with the silver springs. This will keep your clutch bell cooler also, which will help the bearings.

3) Check that the shoes are swinging freely once they're mounted up. I've seen a couple flywheels where the shoes were pinched too tightly once mounted, so they didn't spring outward at the right RPM like they were supposed to. File them down a bit until they swing open freely.

4) Try using the TKO Special Clutch bearings. They are specifically designed for use in the clutch environment and will outlast other bearings by a factor of 5x or more.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...utch-Bearing-1

Moving on to your rear gearbox. The clicking you're hearing is the pinion and ring gear slipping. You'll need to shim the diff to make the mesh between these two gears tighter. You may need to replace the plastic gearbox housing once in a while also, as it actually spreads over time from the forces being placed on it. I wouldn't shim them until they're extremely "notchy," but it should be a good tight mesh. Hope this helps.

The 2.0 has alot of chassis flex, If your having trouble with clutch bearings try running a looser gear mesh