1LikesSirio engines thread
09-21-2009 | 11:36 AM
#2686
Tech Rookie
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 2
What is really Sirio XXX?
May be it is wrong question, but I had no luck to find something more on internet. I got chance to buy new Sirio XXX (package with pipe, manifold) It costs 229 Euro.
My problem is that I can not find any official information about this engine. I also visited "star-motor" Sirio page, but they are silent about XXX model. I found only few info about parameters (but not about revolution range or possible reached power output!), but they were distributor pages only.
Do you have some relevant source from manufacturer?
What do you think about price?
Thank you in advance.
My problem is that I can not find any official information about this engine. I also visited "star-motor" Sirio page, but they are silent about XXX model. I found only few info about parameters (but not about revolution range or possible reached power output!), but they were distributor pages only.
Do you have some relevant source from manufacturer?
What do you think about price?
Thank you in advance.
09-21-2009 | 11:42 AM
#2687
Tech Regular
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 320
Here are the spots i found to order from!
rctorco.com sirio s12 xxxv $350
ebay.com sirio s12 xxx $280
rcmarket.com sirio s12 xxxv w/ pipe $350
amainhobbies.com sirio s12 xxx $270
as for your question though, i am not able to ind anything either!
rctorco.com sirio s12 xxxv $350
ebay.com sirio s12 xxx $280
rcmarket.com sirio s12 xxxv w/ pipe $350
amainhobbies.com sirio s12 xxx $270
as for your question though, i am not able to ind anything either!
09-23-2009 | 02:47 AM
#2690
Noel
09-25-2009 | 08:01 PM
#2691
try www.the-border.com they might have it
10-14-2009 | 02:43 PM
#2693
Tech Master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,811
From: lima-peru
Sirio .12 Evo 4 General Carburetor Settings
High Speed – 4 to 5 turns out
Low Speed – 2 to 2.50 turns out
Mid Range - Flush then ¼ turns out
Otra cosa muy importante, el Sirio se regula en caliente y no en frío, lo normal es que el motor en frío tienda a pararse y joder, y en caliente sea estable, esto debido al cuerpo de composite del carburador.
saludos
afm
High Speed – 4 to 5 turns out
Low Speed – 2 to 2.50 turns out
Mid Range - Flush then ¼ turns out
Otra cosa muy importante, el Sirio se regula en caliente y no en frío, lo normal es que el motor en frío tienda a pararse y joder, y en caliente sea estable, esto debido al cuerpo de composite del carburador.
saludos
afm
10-14-2009 | 05:01 PM
#2694
Tech Fanatic
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 846
Sirio .12 Evo 4 General Carburetor Settings
High Speed – 4 to 5 turns out
Low Speed – 2 to 2.50 turns out
Mid Range - Flush then ¼ turns out
Otra cosa muy importante, el Sirio se regula en caliente y no en frío, lo normal es que el motor en frío tienda a pararse y joder, y en caliente sea estable, esto debido al cuerpo de composite del carburador.
saludos
afm
High Speed – 4 to 5 turns out
Low Speed – 2 to 2.50 turns out
Mid Range - Flush then ¼ turns out
Otra cosa muy importante, el Sirio se regula en caliente y no en frío, lo normal es que el motor en frío tienda a pararse y joder, y en caliente sea estable, esto debido al cuerpo de composite del carburador.
saludos
afm
10-14-2009 | 05:17 PM
#2695
Tech Master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,811
From: lima-peru
10-15-2009 | 10:12 AM
#2697
Tech Master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,811
From: lima-peru
That brass screw, is actually the main jet of the carburator, commonly called mid range needle. In Sirio engines the default position is 1/4 of a turn opened from closed.
The dimensions of the this main jet (brass needle), its position relative to the venturi dictates the fuel curve of the carburetor (or how much fuel enters by each cfm of air drawn into the engine at a relative carb opening).
At idle speed, the engine is controlled by the low-end needle, and how much air passes into the engine via the position of the barrel. But when you start to move the barrel to allow more air to pass, in fact, you're moving the low-end needle too, allowing at the same time more fuel to pass too.
Depending at which opening of the barrel the main jet (brass needle) is totally uncovered, and the carburetor starts being mandated by the adjustment of the high-end needle, and how much fuel this last adjustment permits to pass can be varied, and the power band of the engine too, but slightly, by screwing or unscrewing the main jet (mid range needle) and readjusting the low-end needle.
But be careful, screwing the main jet too further into the venturi can lead to mix and temperature problems, in fact, you're leaning the mid rpms, where the engine operates at partial opening of the carb, this can lead to problems and erratic operation.
This is why, on almost all the engine booklets they warn you about not touching this adjustment, because it comes factory tuned to it’s ideal average.
The position of the main jet, relative to the venturi also changes the position on where and how much the vortex of air that enters into the carb varies how finely the fuel is sprayed into the air that enters (fuel is converted into a mist to be burned), a drop, no matter how little it is, doesn't burn and can create many and serious problems. This last can lead up to a conrod breakage (common) or piston breakage (not common but seen some) due to hydro lock.
Hope its clear
AFM
...
10-15-2009 | 01:56 PM
#2699
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 7
That brass screw, is actually the main jet of the carburator, commonly called mid range needle. In Sirio engines the default position is 1/4 of a turn opened from closed.
The dimensions of the this main jet (brass needle), its position relative to the venturi dictates the fuel curve of the carburetor (or how much fuel enters by each cfm of air drawn into the engine at a relative carb opening).
At idle speed, the engine is controlled by the low-end needle, and how much air passes into the engine via the position of the barrel. But when you start to move the barrel to allow more air to pass, in fact, you're moving the low-end needle too, allowing at the same time more fuel to pass too.
Depending at which opening of the barrel the main jet (brass needle) is totally uncovered, and the carburetor starts being mandated by the adjustment of the high-end needle, and how much fuel this last adjustment permits to pass can be varied, and the power band of the engine too, but slightly, by screwing or unscrewing the main jet (mid range needle) and readjusting the low-end needle.
But be careful, screwing the main jet too further into the venturi can lead to mix and temperature problems, in fact, you're leaning the mid rpms, where the engine operates at partial opening of the carb, this can lead to problems and erratic operation.
This is why, on almost all the engine booklets they warn you about not touching this adjustment, because it comes factory tuned to it’s ideal average.
The position of the main jet, relative to the venturi also changes the position on where and how much the vortex of air that enters into the carb varies how finely the fuel is sprayed into the air that enters (fuel is converted into a mist to be burned), a drop, no matter how little it is, doesn't burn and can create many and serious problems. This last can lead up to a conrod breakage (common) or piston breakage (not common but seen some) due to hydro lock.
Hope its clear
AFM
The dimensions of the this main jet (brass needle), its position relative to the venturi dictates the fuel curve of the carburetor (or how much fuel enters by each cfm of air drawn into the engine at a relative carb opening).
At idle speed, the engine is controlled by the low-end needle, and how much air passes into the engine via the position of the barrel. But when you start to move the barrel to allow more air to pass, in fact, you're moving the low-end needle too, allowing at the same time more fuel to pass too.
Depending at which opening of the barrel the main jet (brass needle) is totally uncovered, and the carburetor starts being mandated by the adjustment of the high-end needle, and how much fuel this last adjustment permits to pass can be varied, and the power band of the engine too, but slightly, by screwing or unscrewing the main jet (mid range needle) and readjusting the low-end needle.
But be careful, screwing the main jet too further into the venturi can lead to mix and temperature problems, in fact, you're leaning the mid rpms, where the engine operates at partial opening of the carb, this can lead to problems and erratic operation.
This is why, on almost all the engine booklets they warn you about not touching this adjustment, because it comes factory tuned to it’s ideal average.
The position of the main jet, relative to the venturi also changes the position on where and how much the vortex of air that enters into the carb varies how finely the fuel is sprayed into the air that enters (fuel is converted into a mist to be burned), a drop, no matter how little it is, doesn't burn and can create many and serious problems. This last can lead up to a conrod breakage (common) or piston breakage (not common but seen some) due to hydro lock.
Hope its clear
AFM