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Old 08-10-2009 | 08:53 PM
  #8221  
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Originally Posted by nitro64
I'm intersted on the GO .25 turbo button.How much are you selling it?
I'll have to look and I'll pm you.

Rex
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Old 08-10-2009 | 08:57 PM
  #8222  
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Originally Posted by xjqkz
Is it normal for the carb to rotate slightly after the retaining bolt is tightened i mean REALLY tightened ? if not normal then can someone tell me what do I need to do to fix this?
Sounds like the metal ring came loose from the composite, I have heard of some people epoxying them but you basically need a new carb body. They have been replacing them for free here in the Usa. It's best to have the place where you bought it warranty it.

Rex
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Old 08-10-2009 | 09:30 PM
  #8223  
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how long is the warranty on go engines?

I found this one: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...etor-Main-Body

would this fit on a 3 port turbo head engine?
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Old 08-10-2009 | 10:00 PM
  #8224  
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Originally Posted by xjqkz
Is it normal for the carb to rotate slightly after the retaining bolt is tightened i mean REALLY tightened ? if not normal then can someone tell me what do I need to do to fix this?
I've also seen the clamping nuts come together before clamping the carby. If you grind a small amount of material away from the ends (the two surfaces that touch when you tighten the screw, NOT the surface that contacts the carby), it will allow the clamping nuts to tighten onto the carby.


Pete.
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Old 08-10-2009 | 10:34 PM
  #8225  
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Originally Posted by mattwoodcraft
rather then saying it will not work why not tell him why it will not work ? with no shim in you have .3 of squish adding 1 .1 will give a total of .4 if your only running 20% a .1 shim may all that be needed ...

IMO i would just run .2 shim give you a toatl of .5 med hot plug
Originally Posted by 22racer
The shim is softer than the head button or the sleeve and acts like a gasket.

In your setup I would run 1 alum and 1 thin brass or even just the aluminum.

Rex
Thank you both for information. Still learning nitro and I have never messed with shimming so I had no idea that they act like a gasket. The way the massive mods article is worded it sounds like it is possible that you can run without one which is why I thought it would work.
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Old 08-11-2009 | 01:41 AM
  #8226  
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Originally Posted by Gizmatron
Tralalala MG66 in the post from massive today..Just couldn't resist the ceramic bearing upgrade for after the run in either...

I found out from mark today that the new engines come with 2 different rods..A heavier one fitted for the run in and the spare included with the motor..these gen 5.5 rods are the new "knife edge " type ..lighter and more streamlined apparently..

I presume this is for all the new engines and not just the MG66....
Nice one Giz Won't be long now !!! Lucky bugger

Originally Posted by zonda
HI, I know people run the dynamite #86 pipe with there 5 ports but how does the GO FEMCA 0801 Exhaust Pipe run ?
reason im asking is the dynamite is still on order with suppliers and I found a GO pipe set at a good price. Almost half that of the dynamite lol
Rob
0801 is great on the 5 Port. Good bottom and top.

Originally Posted by Blackie001
I've also seen the clamping nuts come together before clamping the carby. If you grind a small amount of material away from the ends (the two surfaces that touch when you tighten the screw, NOT the surface that contacts the carby), it will allow the clamping nuts to tighten onto the carby.


Pete.
Doing the clamping bolts up too tight is what stuffs the carb body and causes things to become loose. On the earlier carbs it cracks the plastic liner and allows the carb to move about. On the later Gen carbs, if you crank real hard on the pinch bolts you can put a dent in the carb throat and cause a loose fit too. Do the bolts up snug, but don't crank hard on them. They will hold the carb with suprisingly little tension.
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Old 08-11-2009 | 09:05 AM
  #8227  
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Guys,

In your personal opinion, how you compare GO 2047 pipe v/s GO 0801 pipe on a GO 7 port ?, powerwise and runtime-wise ?

thanks,
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Old 08-11-2009 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Tabushi
Guys,

In your personal opinion, how you compare GO 2047 pipe v/s GO 0801 pipe on a GO 7 port ?, powerwise and runtime-wise ?

thanks,

2047 in standard form is weak on bottom ans def. not suitable for 7p. 0801 is much better but lacks top when compared to the 2047. So I'd take the 2047 pipe and 0801 header (or any longer length header) and cope it with the 2047 pipe and you have a winner for the 7p. Some say it's even better than the 2072. To me the 2072 is best for the 5p and the truggy engines and the 0801 or 2047 + long header is the pipe for 7p.

Regarding runtimes the 0801 is slightly better than 2047 or 2072 if you can live with the slightly restricted top.

Last edited by Poinas2; 08-11-2009 at 10:13 AM. Reason: added info
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Old 08-11-2009 | 11:09 AM
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Has anyone found a better plug than an OS #8 for the 3 Port Sports? Thinking about trying a couple different medium and medium/hot plugs but figured I would try and narrow it down some.

Last edited by cLaWz; 08-11-2009 at 02:12 PM.
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Old 08-11-2009 | 12:27 PM
  #8230  
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Originally Posted by Poinas2
2047 in standard form is weak on bottom ans def. not suitable for 7p. 0801 is much better but lacks top when compared to the 2047. So I'd take the 2047 pipe and 0801 header (or any longer length header) and cope it with the 2047 pipe and you have a winner for the 7p. Some say it's even better than the 2072. To me the 2072 is best for the 5p and the truggy engines and the 0801 or 2047 + long header is the pipe for 7p.

Regarding runtimes the 0801 is slightly better than 2047 or 2072 if you can live with the slightly restricted top.
+1 on all the above. I run the 2072 on my modded 5 port and it ROCKS big time compared to all the other pipes. The 2047 with the 0801 or similar longer header is a killer on the 7 Port (better then the 2072 IMO). It gives the 7 a boost in bottom end, and still lets the 7 ports legendary top end do it's thing.
It's a nice smooth power band all the way through.
Pato - good to see you featuring in the podiums. Keep up the good work.
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Old 08-11-2009 | 01:55 PM
  #8231  
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Thank guys ...

And ... what about runtimes ?

cya,
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Old 08-11-2009 | 02:21 PM
  #8232  
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Originally Posted by cLaWz
Has anyone found a better plug than an OS #8 for the 3 Port Sports? Thinking about trying a couple different medium and medium/hot plugs but figured I would try and narrow it down some.
Odonnell makes some short Os style plugs.

Rex
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Old 08-11-2009 | 07:28 PM
  #8233  
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Originally Posted by Tabushi
Thank guys ...

And ... what about runtimes ?

cya,
Hey Pato,

as for runtimes I found the 0801 only slightly better than the 2047 -0801 header combo. For me both are around 9-11min depending on the track clutch, plug,restrictor etc but the power band on the 2047-0801header combo is far better( my opinion)

Adrian
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Old 08-11-2009 | 08:13 PM
  #8234  
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Originally Posted by grizz1
+1 on all the above. I run the 2072 on my modded 5 port and it ROCKS big time compared to all the other pipes. The 2047 with the 0801 or similar longer header is a killer on the 7 Port (better then the 2072 IMO). It gives the 7 a boost in bottom end, and still lets the 7 ports legendary top end do it's thing.
It's a nice smooth power band all the way through.
Pato - good to see you featuring in the podiums. Keep up the good work.
central hole of second chamber is closed 10mm for GO 0801 and GO 2072.
but GO 2047 is more bigger than 0801,2072 to 13mm.
if central hole bigger than 10mm,the power band is between at top to mid. then noise is more too.and fuel consumption is more too.
if central hole average at 10mm,the power band,noise,fuel consumption are conform to IFMAR rules.
so each tuned pipes have different set up to GO TECH engine.it's depend on your favor.
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Old 08-11-2009 | 09:12 PM
  #8235  
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Hey guys i have a go tech 3 port Race and a 7 port my? is i have buggy and truggy with motor should put on the buggy and the truugy
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