Zonda thats the perfect pipe for the 5 port from Dynamite. I used the same 1. If you have any questions just come here and anyone will help you out. The 5 port is awesome for buggy or truggy. Buggy I suggest a small carb restricter carbon shoes w/1.0 springs, truggy stock restricter or a tad smaller alum shoes w/1.1 springs.

Rkess I am sure the 3's will be in shortly after because alot of people like the 3 here I guess, I do. He with the 5.5's had mostly 3 ports. I had some racefactor stickers but just did 2 new bodies and used them all up or I would have given you some I will see if i can get a few my next order. I got Racefactor stickers on my E-buggy body LOL.

Hi Rob, Couldn't get any info from that link, but if your going Dynamite pipe, then the 086 is the one you want. If you want to splash out a little more the pipe worth buying is the new GO 2072. It hauls on the 5 port.
The tuning bible is very good, especially the section on idle gap and low speed needles being too rich. The GO's (most of them, and I'm assuming yours is fairly recent) have a long tapered low speed needle which tunes totally different to most other normal length needle carbs out there.
You have PM on tuning details. Also check out the Massive Mods Tech Tips page on the web site at -

http://www.massivemods.com.au/index....d100c746824203

Lots of good info there

Malik, Grizz, thanks for the responce guys
I will be using the exact clutch setup you mentioned Malik Iwill be using the 1.0 springs for the buggy.

Grizz I dont no which Gen the 5 port is so I uploaded a pic of it.


thanks for the PM too cant wait to get this setup going in my buggy

Looks like either a gen 4 or maybe a 5. Does it have tribal graphix on top of the head? If so its a Gen 5 if it just says Go 5 port its a 4. Either way your okay they are pretty much the same mill. get a set of restricters they are a must with the 5 port in buggy. use the smallest 1 and you will still have more power than you need. And with the carbons and 1.0's if you find you want more of the line snap, trim alittle material off the shoes. I used to run alums but will never again in buggy just a waste of time and money if you ask me. Truggy yes they are needed. I mean to offent nobody thats just me. Bearings last way longer and I can go 4 race days easy on a set of $8 shoes and $1.29 springs.

You are right, a must see for everyone who owns a GO-engine

With the Kyosho clutch we are using 2 blue aluminum, 1 carbon, 1.0 springs, they last a long time. Truggy same setup but .9/.95 spring with the .25 6 port.

Rex

If the end of the carb where the HSN screws in (side not showing in the pic) is all silver alloy, then it is a Gen 4. If this part of the body is black, with just the outer end coloured silver, then it is a Gen 5. Plus the head graphics like Malik explained.
Yeah - clutch shoes and springs all come down to the track condition and surface you race on really. So everyone has differing ideas and views, which all work fine for their own track and driving style.
Over winter here our tracks have been super grippy (when they haven't been under water ). I run three X-Ray lightened 1.71 alloy shoes and 1.1 springs in my buggy, with both my 7 port and modded 5 port, no problems. Gets out of the corners real good , but under control. No way I would be running this on a loose and dusty track though.
Normal summer conditions would be 2 x standard weight VP Pro Alloy shoes and 1 x Carbon shoe with 1.0 springs in the 5 port, and the same shoes but always 1.1 springs in the 7 port. Do some testing and see what works best for you

The only changes i have been making is wether I use the trimmed shoes for tracks with short run ups, when I need that extra snap. And for more technical tracks I use stock HB carbons, both set ups w/1.0's. I am about to give the answerrc carbons a try and they come with the full set of springa and I want to try 1 1.1 and 2 1.0's and 2 1.1's and 1 1.0. I also saw someone drilling 1-2 1mm holes in the shoe instead of trimming. I guess that would be more exact on the weight coming off. But when I trim I do 1 and use that for a template. I tried the carbon and alun mix before and had no liuck with it in my truggy last year with the PTM 5 port. Tore up bells and the carbon shoe didnt last half the time of the alum. But when I did use alums I used the Mugens both the LW and regular versions. Lots of guys have been loving the Dynamite long lifes at my local track and seem to last pretty good but I dont need all that snap. I would give them a try though.

The carbon shoe won't wear as long as the alloys in a mixed set up, it's not meant to. I would think you would wear through 2 or 3 carbon shoes per set of alloys maybe ?
Torn up clutch bell what happened there ??? Shouldn't have been anything to do with the shoes I wouldn't have thought. Unless you didn't check them often enough, and the spring on the worn carbon shoe started eating away at the bell and ultimately toasted it ?? That would be a bit naughty Mr Malik

Just Picked up a GOTECH .21 3port
i ordered it with the pull start but they did not have them in stock.
what parts would i need to convert one without the backplate to pull start the
the parts are weird and im confused.

help would be greatly appreciated.....ty

If you got a 3 Port R Spec you won't be able to convert it. The crank is not set up for a pull start, and I doubt a pull start would turn over a new Pro model motor anyway. To be honest, even if you have the 3 Port Sport model, using a pull start is the worst thing you can do. They are unreliable, make the motors really hard to start when they are cold, and they kill the power output of the motor.
For the price of a pull start kit (if one is available for the motor you have) you could buy a reasonable new, or second hand starter box (bump box). This is the best way by far to start your motors, especially when they are cold or you have flooded them. Once you have used a bump box, you will never go back to a pull start - ever

Just got the 5 port in the post this morning looking at it I think its a Gen 4.
what glow plugs do you guys recomend ? will be using Byron Race 2500 Gen2 25% Fuel.
Cant wait to get this thing going....have to wait for my clutch system, pipe and a new starter box first though

Sweet

Depending how many tanks it has had through it, it will most likely be very tight still. Make sure you heat it well with a hair dryer or paint stripping hot air gun before you start it. This makes it so much easier to start, and is a lot better for the engines internals too. You should heat the motor before you start it whenever possible. And always return it to BDC when you stop it.
Running 25% fuel you can run a medium or hot plug. Ideally, with 25% a medium plug is the most suited (say - O'Donell 97T or RB #6). The GO motors seem to be able to handle a hotter plug, so depending on ambient temps and conditions you may like to try a hot plug (say - O'Donnell 77T or RB #5), the OS P3 UltraHot plug is also used by a lot of the guys. I tend to run the medium plugs on 25% most of the time, and they work very well.

Is this the blue head motor or the red head? I have never seen a pull start on a Go, just not very common. I do have a new rotostart off a .25 but it might work if you have the blue head.
Your not too far away, are you going to race in the Mn Nitro series? www.mnnitroseries.com

Rex