ive ran a 5pt w/086 and 7mm restrictor 2x1.0 1x1.1 springs DYN alum shoes in a buggy(rc8) .....loved it still my favorite motor combo ive ever ran ... getnn ready to return home and run my new 3pt R in a new hyper9 .... i think the 5port toned down with a 6mm restrictor an 086 pipe is still very good for a buggy on a tight track....more power then i ever needed ...easy to tune and had an easy to find tunning window i thought

but im really excited about the 3pt R cant wait to break her in


grizz-in your opinion should i do the TKO ceramic bearing swap?in the stock 3pt R there just sittn in my hobby garage wondering about durrabilty issue's

Hey thanks grizz1. Just found a 3 port for only Ģ120 !!
http://www.lstshop.co.uk/catalog/pro...3ad7170d89541e
I think thats the turbo head one. very tempted I might buy this one first then move on to a 5 or 7 port later. I can have two race spec motors for the price of just one exotic branded motor
Those break in details would be awesome.
Thanks

That is an older model mate. There have been two improved versions since then.
Check out Massive Mods in Australia. He ships express world wide, and his prices are very good, especially with your exchange rate.
Check out the new Gen 5.5 motors on the bottom of the home page here -

http://www.massivemods.com.au/index.php

One of these is what you are after They come with the latest 2072 high performance pipe and set of restrictors. Good deal
In order for these to be sold internationally you just have to get the motor modded (for warranty reasons). Get Massive to do a Stage 3 sleeve mod and you are racing. Won't cost more then a few pounds extra, and it will go better then a stock one.
Or you can go the whole way and get up to a Stage 5 modded motor from this line up -

http://www.massivemods.com.au/index.php?cPath=9

Hmmm - Nasty

I haven't run ceramics in my motors yet, but I am thinking about it. A lot of guys do and find them very good. I do have a ceramic main bearing in a .12 on-road motor and it performs very well - smoother and very free running.
If you have them there you may as well use them. TKO is a good brand from all accounts. I change the bearings in my off road motors at around 2.5 to 3 gallons of racing (which is quite a bit of track time) so durability is not really a problem. Change them before anything can go wrong I guess is my mentality. It's worked so far

Man I so need to buy some better quality clutch bearings..was just putting another couple of post pinch tanks on the 7 port today before it rained..finally hallelujah!..when I killed my 3rd pair of bearings in 4 weeks..really really bored with this so acer racing another order coming your way..

hey rex they are a 5 port sleave modded to 6 port and are definately not a 3 port.

I had 1 of the hand modded preproduction vertions and if the Factory produced version is anywhere near that then watch out these thing haul ASS

Adrian

Hey 2fst2c


Ok first thing ill ask you to do is measure the gudgeon pin from the same place on the vernier , you will get a different reading depending on where you measure it from on the claw. the new ones should measure 3.99 mm , now looking at yours in the pic if you had premature wear on the gudgeon ends then that can be the cause of the pin popping out. The front of the piston is where the hole is on the gudgeon , or at least that is how they are assembled, the gudgeon having a lip can by chance catch onto the G Clip if it has movement. so that is possibly why that happened. the question is why did it wear prematurely ?

Can you outline your run in procedure exactly how you did it ?

that will give me bit more of an idea ..

Cheers MM

Hey Zonda

id say tune going out at least 80% of the time has more to do with incorrect set up , weather and other elements that the engine cant help. this applies to any brand engine. engine tune can go out from morning noon and night just because of air density. Tune can go out depending on the surface you drive on. Carbs will hold a tune really depending on the needle seals ability to keep the needle still during engine vibration.. anything else is an outside factor and is not the fault of an engine.

Hope this helps

Cheers MM

mark I thought there would be pic's up this week of the mm66,price,preorder.

Hey Mark, How was your night last night...............? You keep to the 5 minute rule??


Pete.

I replaced the rod in the Go 7 port I got in a deal with my truggy. Here's what it looked like. What do you guys think? It still has incredible pinch and there were no gouges or scratches, just those marks. He was using Trinity Platinum 30%. I plan on running Byron's 30%.

looked a little more worn then mine. I did mine at 2 gallons. also I am using byrons gen2prodriver30%. I like it, but think my run times have gone down. even after leaning the needles. It definitely tunes easy -good power lower temps. Takes a while longer for the engine to warm up with the byrons. I am going to finish out the 2 gallons then I may go back to my sidewinder 30%. that seamed to be all around good for me. did not need to lean anything out to far,good mileage and power. was going to try torco, but have read that you need to really lean it out for good results. I may change my mind and stay with byrons. I would like to try the massive mods nitro, but god knows what it would cost to ship to me. also I see on your head that it is black. are you running a hot plug? os-p3. or to rich or is that how your fuel burns? All of my engines are a beautiful light brown. Both head and plug.

Mark, I measured it on the end of the pin with the tips of the caliper because the wide part of the caliper is wider than the wear spot. It is worn the amounts shown. You can physically feel it and see it. For break in, I heated the engine to 215. Temp taken at the base of the head. Figured internal temp was around 200. Turned over nice on the box. Ran it at a good idle for 1 tank while keeping the head temp 215-220. Let it cool 30 mins. Heated the motor back up to 215 and fired it up. Leaned it enough to keep it running while doing ovals in the parking lot and keeping the head temp 200-220. Had HD tinfoil on the head. Did this for 4 more tanks cooling down 30 mins between tanks. Tank 6-12, heated as above and removed tinfoil. Leaned out each tank and widened the rpm range and kept engine 215-220 through entire tank and again cooled down between tanks. Tank 13-till broken, heated engine, began tuning on the track. Was about 90% tuned when it stopped. That was just under a gallon. The clip in the 1st piston actually broke. Part of it is still in the groove. The 2nd piston has no clip left. That is the one that had the worn pin and I also believe the pin wear caused the clip to pop. I need to get your addy because I wanted send these into you to look at anyways. Thanks

No i spread it over 3 x 2 minute intervals . i found that to be much more fun. and each time the complints came in i was already snooring .. it was great

Hey GTXRACER

Looks like the tune is rich bottom and lean top. The scrape mark on the piston can come from 2 things

1 Plug element or other head debris
2 lean high speed runs or its been flipped on its lid and over revved.