I talked to wolf a few weeks ago. He said there are only a couple more DE Limited Editions left. I highly recommend it. Gorgeous car!

The vibrations were from having the spool in and the drive shafts were not aligned.

True, the car is plenty light but with the spool, rotating mass is reduced and the drive train will spin up quicker. The convertible oneway is much heavier than the TM spool and the pulleys line up better as well.

The DE is a very nice looking car thats for sure but the funds are lacking to spend that much at this time. I think I will go for the E4RS version. Price a little better for me and has enough hopups to get me going.

It is very easy to get vibrations when using a spool. Had it happen in the past on other touring cars I have had.

I have a brand new in the box E4RS for sale if you are interest, price should be quite affordable for you (or make me an offer)....let me know.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...g-car-new.html

Also...finally finished the E4RS and drove her for the 1st time after like a year of storage in the box. Out of my surprise, this car handles alot better then I expect and alot better then what other ppl said. With a SP V1.1 speedo and a Novak 17.5 I can still get a very good speed but the best part of it is the balancing of the car, it feels totally different then my other main TC.

I will try the Spool this week with a little more setup adjustment....btw, I ignored the TM shocks and used the Tamiya Blue shocks and I am not sure that the shocks does make the car even better.....using John St Amant mixed with some Marco's setup....it is very close to perfect already.

If there is a chance, I will work on the 13.5, then will try race at the 1/8th On Road track with the 3.5/4.5 motor....I kinda don't want to spend too much time with the stock motor on this car....want to see the limit of her.

If I decide to get one yours is actually the one I have been thinking about.

How many of these cars do you have. By just looking at the car layout I have to imagine the balance is excellent.

How free is the drive train with the 3 belt setup on your new car? My last 3 belt car was the FSR Bullet and I had to spend hours on the driveline to get the car somewhat free.

I have 6...4 are still new in box. I ran for Schumacher but my oversea business is for TM. I used this one (last sat, virgin run) for 17.5 rubber, then if I want to...I can open another one up and use it for RCGT. Then, if I want to, I can have Jonny Sockco to help me out and get another one for USVTA and 13.5...then another one for 13.5 foam. Already got one used from last year IIC mod foam....

You didn't asked me about how many Nitro TM G4RS I have right...? LOL

After all the electronics layout (my stuff are not some compact afterall)...it is not really like left to right balanced (on the Hudy PIN balancer) it is the "FEEL" that the car does not rotate (left to right) as AGGRESSIVE compare to my Mi3.5...that also made the car understeer alittle, but on the high speed track (ie, less turns track)...the car is flying. It was my 1st run and the track is not a typical aggressive track that most ppl will run, so it is not a fair way to describe the car...but at least, I don't hate the car, at least, not as bad as when I was building it (try to get the motor fit is a nightmare especailly using a DUO...thats why I ended up using a Novak and use Orion 3800 instead of dealing with 5000 type LIPO problem)

After taking advise from Jonny Sockco...my E4RS is WAY free(er) then the stock setup...at least, the car roll with alittle push even with Novak Motor on it....my FOAM car with K-Factory low friction belt are tight...but it is because it need to be tight (mod carpet foam). But compare to my MI3.5, this E4RS is like 80% as free compare to my Mi3.5 with traditional 2 belts design.

I don't use front belt tensioner...almost no tension at rear...side belt, using stock long belt, bearing pulley almost all the way down...you have to spend time to check everything on the car. On my case, the TM spool (solid one, not the multi-diff one) is OK without using any spacer in front of the bearing, but the 1-way/spool multi-diff is a nightmare, super tight to fit into the bulkhead, ended up grinding some alum off the diff body in order to get that free up. The original DIFF is the best thing, and what I did is removed all the balls inside, placed Tamiya ANTI WEAR grease, used my old business card and cutted 2 circle sheet and placed them within (without the diff ball)...adjust the tightness, then I got a "limited slip" kinda spool. Work great last SAT without any wear on the outdrive (even it is a plastic one, which I was worry about before).

By looking at the quality of the TM spool and multi-diff, I think they are just OK...looks very pretty but not so sure about their duribility, especailly for outdoor running 13.5 and up. I would keep them for indoor carpet with 13.5 and lower.

You should stock up some LONG ball stud, I am limited my roll center setting because the stock one are not long enough for me to put 3mm spacer below or I don't have enough thread to the bulkhead....

There was 1 issue...side belt got bounced up, after the race, it ended up above the bearing tensioner instead of below the bearing tensioner, indicated I need more tension OR need a big washer mod onto the outside of the tensioner to prevent belt flipped to above bearing tensioner.

This SAT and SUN will do another racing, 2 different tracks and will see I can run 17.5 along with the 13.5 cars.

Another thing I was worry about E4RS is motor getting hot problem (due to motor sitting behind battery without any air flowing toward)....but after the SAT race, I think I don't have to worry about it much....I was running E4RS internal 2.0588, with 90T spur and 44/45T pinion...that is 4.20 and 4.11 final...using SP GT1.1 with MAX timing and Max DRRS along with Novak 17.5 SS Pro....temperature after all races were 135-145 range. I think...to max out the motor, temperature should be around 170-180 degrees, right...?

Any idea..? I think I can push the motor a little more...last SAT was hot, 85 degrees temp, track temp was 98 degree...RP30 after run were all 100-110 degrees range @ 4 corners.

You can easily go up on gearing. I normally run my motors up to 175 degrees is my point. I would think your good for at least 2 teeth on the pinion and maybe even a few more.

I the SP V1 speedo the first generation one. I run max timing at 26.5 and on my 13.5 Tekin motor I only run about 7 degrees or so of timing. I'm just not a fan of burning up my motors. Once I get a more up to date speedo with all these timing boosts I will finally be able to keep some notes on my gearing.

Solara thanks for the info on the battery thing. I have all 5000 packs and seems like with those you need to do a little modding to get them to fit. I read about the motor thing a little but not 100% clear on why some motors fit and some don't. I'm just not sure what I want to do at this time car wise. I will say that the design is very nice and potential I think could be huge. Sounds like TM would do a little more work on some of those little issues they could have even more people running the car.

Don't get me wrong...the battery part is EASY, just add spacer...it even came with the kit and instruction on how to do so...I just have plenty of ORION pack to waste and on last SAT running 17.5, I used only 1800 mah on a 6 minutes race...either I am very good with my throttle or the whole drive train is so smooth and easy on power...

About the motor issue...it is just difficult to MOUNT the motor, not adjusting the motor, it has plenty of room to move back and forth, just using NOVAK type motor is easier to mount compare to the DUO type motor (the end bell of these motor are different).

Overall....it is a great car, at least, it drives WAY BETTER then I expected or alot better then building it.

This car was supposed to be for brushed motors and round cells.
Its easy to see why things are the way they are if you think about it.
just go back right before lipos and all this brushless tech. came out.
and as for Lipos not fitting.... I believe every TM kit I got came with shims to put under the upper deck to make room for thicker packs.

Solara and John thanks for helping me with the info I need.

I'm going to go back and start reading thru all the posts to catch up some more on the car so I can gather more info.

YVW wyd,