All three that you mentioned do, but if you want to go to a biigger bearing you have to mod the hub.

Yup, they do, but they will only extend the life. They will still fail in the end. Much better to just have J-DUB mod some hubs for you. All other brands use the 8x16x5 bearing, for some reason losi decided to use an 8x14x4 bearing. For a buggy, that is ok, but they don't hold up in a truggy!

Strange that the 8T 1.0 has the same bearings (part #) and people have run them now for several years without much talk of failure.

YEAH, I can't say I ever had a failure on my 1.0 truggy. I believe it is something to do with the change to zero offset wheels.

I was thinking about the bearing issue the other day, and why I never had problems w/ my 1.0. I believe it all has to do with leverage.

A half-offset wheel only has half the width of the wheel to leverage against the outside bearing. A zero-offset wheel has the entire width of the wheel leveraged against the outside bearing. As you know, the longer the lever, the more the mechanical force is multiplied at the other end (in this case, the outside wheel bearing). I drew up a little diagram to help visualize what I'm talking about:



-Howard

Exactly what I was thinking, just didn't explain it as well as you!

That would mean its double the force with zero offset wheels if that theory applies.

I posted a few days ago about my problems with the 8T 2.0 and it eating my Steering Servo Gears for lunch (4 sets!). Anyway I finally got ahold of "Bill" in Losi Tech Support. He is definitely good at diffusing, which was appreciated because when I left my first message I was pretty angry. The long and short of it is that he said the 2.0 Servo saver plastic was "hard on servos" and that it didn't actuate as easily as the 1.0 plastic. So he is sending me the 1.0 plastic parts. I did take mine out of the truck last night and it was all but impossible to make it actuate. I don't know if mine was just a particularly bad mold or whatever but I'm fairly certain that this is the cause of my servo issues. I'll know for sure the next time I race (hopefully Saturday) and I will post the result here. I have yet to have a race day without going through at least 1 set of gears.

If you have an 8T 2.0 I'd suggest you remove the servo saver assembly and check to see if you can make it actuate. Hopefully the newer trucks don't have the same problem mine (one of the early one's) did but with a simple test you can be sure without blowing servo gear sets. If yours doesn't feel right, call Losi and they will make it right by sending a 1.0 plastic set.

the 1.0's are the one's that dont actuate very well....the issue with the 2.0 is the stiff spring....the 2.0 plastics work Awesome...the way they molded the 2 peices allows them to work like they should...the 1.0's had dull flat edge's that didnt like to "actuate" very well....so imo your going backwards....and im confused as to why bill would send you this way.

I already have the 1.0 spring, have had it since very early when I read about that issue. From what I can tell, the 2.0 pieces I have are flat edge, no bevel to them. The 1.0 pieces have a beveled edge which makes them actuate with less force. I do not yet have the 1.0 parts but this was explained to me at the track this weekend. A guy had modified his 2.0 parts to have the bevel edge and I could easily actuate his saver.

I will post up when I get the parts.

+1 the spring is what need to be changed

what servo are you running first off and next is 1.0 acuated too much due to dull edges and not deep onough v so the 2.0 has deeper v my friends are all running the 2.0 buggy spring in thier truggys to get it to acuate a little more or just loosen your spring down close to the bottom shoulc fix the problem

I thank you all for the comments. I'm only stating what I've been told and what I can see with my own parts. I've been running JR Z9000T servo's with my 8T 2.0. When I blew the first set of gears, I installed the 1.0 spring. Blew that and I backed the nut all the way down (not hitting the chassis but as far as you can go).

Having removed it yesterday, I can confirm that I all but could not actuate the saver in my hands. At the track Saturday, I met a racer who had told me the deal with the bevel edge and all that. He had his 2.0 saver assembly out (he had a spare) and I could easily actuate his after his bevel edge mod.

I'm not ruling out the possibility that my 2.0 saver has/had (I tried the bevel edge thing myself last night) some kind of unique mold defect. In all fairness, my 2.0 buggy has been just fine and all I've done on that so far is the 1.0 spring and backing the tension down as far as I can go without hitting the chassis. I didn't ask for the 1.0 plastic, Bill suggested it.

So you recommend using a 1.0 spring in the saver? I just got my roller anything else you recommend? I noticed you guys were discussing these 2.0 are ride height sensitive therefor what should it be? Thanks for the help.

my 2.0 plastic bottom piece, 2.0 aluminum upper piece and 2.0 spring actuate just fine with the spring backed down. I think you must have gotten a defective piece. Also there was a problem with molding of the 2.0 lower piece. They were molded so that the spring wouldn't seat properly in the spring cup. Might be your problem.

I would definately stick with the 2.0 plastics. They have much better geometry than the 1.0's do. You may just need to replace yours with a new set of 2.0's.