Lots of combo's out there right now. If your looking at the SC10 I would aim more towards a good 17.5 or 13.5. I personally like LRP but everyone has their favs as far as speed controls. I don't run their motors though. I'm running Fantom in mine with great results.

I received the new steering assembly (after waiting over a week for it to arrive) since I stripped the servo saver from the kit. Built everything and went to install the steering assembly to the top plate. Well, both bolts that attach the steering assembly are the same length, and the one that goes through the servo save side is too short to thread into the top plate. The instructions show them as both being part # 9640, but it's definitely too short. The end of the threads are flush with the end of the bushing. No way this going to work. Did I get two of the same bolt and one should have been longer? Man, I've had this thing sitting for over a week-and-a-half now and still can't get the steering together.

Yes there should be a long and short bolt, You dont have anything laying around in some extras???

thats unfortunate.

Do you have any idea what the specs of these are? I know they are standard and all I have are M3 parts from the Axial crawler.

Oh, those things were a pain in the butt. I had to use my dremel to make the opening slightly larger. Even then I had to use slip-grip pliers to shove them in.

p/n ASC9640 is a bolt set one long one short B4/T4, unfortunatly i dont have any spes but i could take my B4 apart and get the length of the long one. Only thing is they are shouldered.

I definitely received two shorts instead of one long and one short and the shouldered part is the real problem. I imagine the local ACE hardware won't have what I need. If I can find something similar, all I need is about 1/4" more in length and it'll work fine. I was also missing the end pins that hold the outdrives in the diff assembly and already have those coming from Associated. I took a couple of Slash wheel hex pins and shortened them to get by for now. Argh!

Man that sucks i'm sorry to hear that my kit was complete and no problems at all. You dont have a LHS by you that carries Associated?? That bolt set is like 2 bucks to get you up and going. If i had to guess i think it is 5x40 by 1 1/4 i believe.

Surprisingly, the local shop specializes in cars and operates an off road track about 20 minutes south of the shop, yet they hardly have any T4 parts. I had to order the steering assembly from them.

Oh well, the shell came out nice Just have to be patient. Heading out shortly with the wife to grab dinner, so I'll stop by ACE for the heck of it and see if they have anything that'll work.

Thanks for the help.

camber link question.

if i go to the "C" location on the rear hub...have you guys been adding any spacers under the inside ballstud?

Anyone have problems with the rear pin spinning out in the rim??? This thing spun trying to take the nut off the stub axle i moved to the next cross pin but man these wheels need some beefing up in that area.

I have not added any extra ballstud washers under the inner pivot yet gonna see what it does first then tune from there.

I've been having a good time building mine so far, just finished the chassis and all that really remains is getting my servo/ESC to install all the electronics, and paint the body. Been super nice and smooth coming together, with the exception of the rear turnbuckle assembly diagram not being the correct length. The turnbuckle itself was as long as the completely assembled link in the instructions...and even if it were physically possible to assemble that, it wouldn't be the right length for the car. I did mine to be identical to my T4 and it seems perfect...but far from the illustration, unlike the front turnbuckle diagrams, which were picture perfect.

Been documenting the process on my blog for anyone interested in seeing one come together, bit by bit.

I broke my SC10 chassis and top plate last nite racing and made a plate today to fix it.

I ran this plate all day over the broken chassis and it works perfectly.

I did have to buy a new top plate for $7 tho.

I didn't have to change the chassis and everything on it.

Just bolt the plate to the 2 original bulkhead screws then drill 2 new holes under the servo (pull the servo first!) and put 2 new screws with nuts in the new holes, remount the servo and go racing again.

Should take about 10 minutes, no new chassis and no complete rebuild.

I hand made several of these plates to help you guys that WILL eventually break your chassis in the same place.

You can get one to fix your chassis or get one to prevent breaking your chassis and top plate.

Or you can go get an aluminum plate at the hobby store, cut it, bend it, drill it, countersink it and then bolt it on but you won't be racing the same day that's for sure!

$20 shipped for one of my "F N Racing Stuff" plates.
Get your paypal ready.