Shoot, I am still looking for the USA C6, that they have shown on their web site for the last 6 months. I havent found any of them yet.

Alright, so this is the result of my efforts trying to see if anything was astray with my engine. I'm pleased to say that it all came apart and went back together a million times easier than other engines i've fooled around with before. A big releif!

Engine with head off



The head



The crank case doesnt seem to have any cracks in it anywhere.



Piston and sleeve, which i was surprised at how easy they were to get out cleanly with a wooden chopstick to prod the underside of the sleeve and a tiny wrench to lift the conrod gently off the crank.



something i have ZERO experience in is seeing possible wear/damage to the sleeve or piston. I've read that just by opening the engine up like this it has caused more harm than good, but i'm really not sure. All i can see is plenty of after-run on that sleeve.



and to my untrained eye, that piston don't look so bad either..



I also can't see any damage like i was fearing around the con-rod that might cause this 'clicking' feeling as it passes over the top of its rotation. With the head off, its clear to feel there is still pinch there, it lifts the sleeve out of the case, though it's still kinda easy to turn over by hand.



So. I can't see any reason why it should feel like it's clicking over at the top of it's stroke. the pin on the crank looked fine with what little i know of it...
And now that i know i can dissassemble and reassemble easily enough, i won't be afraid to replace the con-rod when i have the cash.

anyone else see anything i dont?

I described mine as a notchy feeling at tdc on a post here on rc tech and everyone said 'con rod is stretched' . It wasnt an RB

Ah! thanks very much. That alone makes me feel better about getting a new con-rod for it sooner than later. rationalisation, you know

i would send mr twister a pm look in pro twister mods thread .....con ron bushing looks worn...but im no expert Brian(mr twister) at PTM is a motor guru

Its always good to replace the rod, after about 1 or 2 gallons of fuel, that first gallon of fuel that goes thru the engines just hammers the hell out of the bushings during brake in, once you have replaced that, depending on how it's been tuned, how hot it's been ran, and keep the air filter cleaned, you should get at least 5 or 6 gallons out of these engines. Check your piston inside of the sleeve, making sure you have the rod with the grooved side facing the exhaust port, push the piston as far as you can upward, don't force it, take another picture of that, then post, we can get an indication of remaining pinch in the sleeve and piston.

I am going to throw one more thing out there from experience, I had a V-spec I could turn over by hand and it had the that clicky noise, and it was from the conrod bushing being worn on the crank, I put in a new conrod, not only did I loose the clicky noise, but added enough throw from the crank that I couldnt turn it over by hand any more. The bushing was worn enough that it wasnt getting the full stroke of the engine and when it pushed the piston up another micro mm it was enough to have a tighter pinch. I couldnt see it but you could really tell the difference.

Hey guys, I'm trying to rebuild an RB WS7II and I'm having a hard time finding a piston/sleeve/conrod for it. I have part numbers but it's sold out at every store. Anyone know where I can get a hold of this rebuild kit?

Are there any other sleeve/pistons from another engine that fit with little to no mods? Thanks.

Junier.

get me some part numbers, I know of some RB dealers.

RBC1133-S7 - Piston/Sleeve
RBC01143-WS7 - Piston/Sleeve/Rod

Thanks for your help.

everyone whats the average run time of the s5 l2g in a buggy? please list pipe/plug/fuel

Thanks for all the responses. I can see that it's most likley time to replace the con-rod. And i think perhaps i should do it before this weekend's racing if i can find one in stock anywhere.
I'll have saturday to putt around rich-like for a while

Weasley,

What are all those marks on the conrod from? Specifically the area near where the rod attaches to the crank.

I've seen this in my previous generation S7 as well. I assume it's just from the back of the rod rubbing against the backplate.

yep your right, I found lots of 3 and 5 port, but no 7 port sleeves