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Old 03-16-2009 | 08:54 AM
  #6001  
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Originally Posted by mfrosty
So I'm ordering an engine from Massive Mods today and I can't decide which one I want, the MM5 5 or 7 port. Anyone here run them? Help me decide! I have an O.S. Speed carb that's going on it and a Dyn 086 pipe. My LHS carries the 0801 for a decent price too so that might be an option next week. Be running on larger outdoor tracks.

Thanks!



@ MarK (MM) do these come with ceramics installed?
Make sure your air filter is on tight!
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Old 03-16-2009 | 09:07 AM
  #6002  
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Originally Posted by rearviewmirror
Make sure your air filter is on tight!
I think I may be a little overly paranoid about it now
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Old 03-16-2009 | 12:11 PM
  #6003  
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just curious, why do you want to put an O.S. Speed carb in it?
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Old 03-16-2009 | 12:27 PM
  #6004  
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Originally Posted by zJatoRad
just curious, why do you want to put an O.S. Speed carb in it?
Go's one real weak point are their carbs. The Vspec carbs are much better and tune easier, or so I'm told. I intend to find out first hand.
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Old 03-16-2009 | 12:29 PM
  #6005  
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Originally Posted by mfrosty
Go's one real weak point are their carbs. The Vspec carbs are much better and tune easier, or so I'm told. I intend to find out first hand.
I wouldn't mess with it.


So guys.. what's the consensus? Disassemble a brand new engine or not? Even the Nitro Tuning Guide recommends a tear down. But how many folks actually do it? How much crap is left in there form the manufacturing process?
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Old 03-16-2009 | 01:02 PM
  #6006  
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Originally Posted by mfrosty
Go's one real weak point are their carbs. The Vspec carbs are much better and tune easier, or so I'm told. I intend to find out first hand.
Hi Frosty - there is nothing wrong with the Gen 5 GO carbs. They had a few minor problems on earlier motors, but the new Gen 5 carb is sweet. They have a slightly shorter LSN which tunes just like most other motors. I think you will get better economy with the original carb. Try both and let us know what you think.
For a larger open track go with the 7 Port and 0801 pipe like Pro Twister suggests If you really want to let it wind out then run the 2047 pipe with the longer 0801 header. The 086 pipe you have would be better suited to the 5 Port.


So guys.. what's the consensus? Disassemble a brand new engine or not? Even the Nitro Tuning Guide recommends a tear down. But how many folks actually do it? How much crap is left in there form the manufacturing process?[/QUOTE]


It´s a good idea to flush a new motor out with some fuel. It is something I always do. It achieves two things. 1. It removes any dross or filings from the manufacturing process (which will be in there to some extent). 2. It means that when you turn your motor over for the first time you are not starting it dry, with no lubricaton in the bearings etc until it starts running. Being so tight it can take a few trys to get these motors running, and you don't really want to be turing the motor over and over with no lubrication in it.
Just remove the backpate, cooling head, and head button. Flush from the rear, and down through the cylinder. Turn the motor over until the ports are exposed when looking down the bore, and flush fuel through the ports as well.
This way you get a good flush out without a complete strip down. Only takes 10 mins and is good insurance.
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Old 03-16-2009 | 01:10 PM
  #6007  
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Originally Posted by grizz1
Hi Frosty - there is nothing wrong with the Gen 5 GO carbs. They had a few minor problems on earlier motors, but the new Gen 5 carb is sweet. They have a slightly shorter LSN which tunes just like most other motors. I think you will get better economy with the original carb. Try both and let us know what you think.
For a larger open track go with the 7 Port and 0801 pipe like Pro Twister suggests If you really want to let it wind out then run the 2047 pipe with the longer 0801 header. The 086 pipe you have would be better suited to the 5 Port.


So guys.. what's the consensus? Disassemble a brand new engine or not? Even the Nitro Tuning Guide recommends a tear down. But how many folks actually do it? How much crap is left in there form the manufacturing process?


It´s a good idea to flush a new motor out with some fuel. It is something I always do. It achieves two things. 1. It removes any dross or filings from the manufacturing process (which will be in there to some extent). 2. It means that when you turn your motor over for the first time you are not starting it dry, with no lubricaton in the bearings etc until it starts running. Being so tight it can take a few trys to get these motors running, and you don't really want to be turing the motor over and over with no lubrication in it.
Just remove the backpate, cooling head, and head button. Flush from the rear, and down through the cylinder. Turn the motor over until the ports are exposed when looking down the bore, and flush fuel through the ports as well.
This way you get a good flush out without a complete strip down. Only takes 10 mins and is good insurance.
Thanks Grizz.! I have some 30% Nitro Juice left over I can flush it with. Then do you just use a bit of RTV to seal the backplate again?
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Old 03-16-2009 | 01:13 PM
  #6008  
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I keep it simple and just buy my motors modded from massive mods..that way they come to me already stripped and cleaned after the modding and the first tank of fuel...maybe it's just cause I'm too lazy to do it myself....
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Old 03-16-2009 | 01:36 PM
  #6009  
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One more new motor questions.

I have a new Go 5-port, I'm going to run it and break it in on 25% nitro juice. What should I do in regard to shims? There is a shim in the box, it looks to be made of copper. How much shimming should be done for 25%?
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Old 03-16-2009 | 01:45 PM
  #6010  
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Originally Posted by rearviewmirror
One more new motor questions.

I have a new Go 5-port, I'm going to run it and break it in on 25% nitro juice. What should I do in regard to shims? There is a shim in the box, it looks to be made of copper. How much shimming should be done for 25%?
I think the GO engines come with 2 shims already fitted.a 0.1 and a 0.2 mm ..0.3 is good up to 25% nitro..then add 0.1 (the shim in the box) for each 5% increase in nitro content..you can also add the shim during break in for the first few tanks to lower the compression and lower temps as well..

If the pro's know better feel free to correct me here! but thats my rule of thumb anyway..
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Old 03-16-2009 | 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by grizz1
Hi Frosty - there is nothing wrong with the Gen 5 GO carbs. They had a few minor problems on earlier motors, but the new Gen 5 carb is sweet. They have a slightly shorter LSN which tunes just like most other motors. I think you will get better economy with the original carb. Try both and let us know what you think.
For a larger open track go with the 7 Port and 0801 pipe like Pro Twister suggests If you really want to let it wind out then run the 2047 pipe with the longer 0801 header. The 086 pipe you have would be better suited to the 5 Port.
Brian's the one that told me the Vspec carb is where it's at with these engines. I have one and I just ordered the MM5 7 Port so we'll see

Going to go p/u the 0801 from my LHS tomorrow.
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Old 03-16-2009 | 02:53 PM
  #6012  
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I had a Go 5PT Gen 4 around a year ago and I did had to use an O.S. Carb, but then I got a Gen 5 5PT and the stock carb is running flawless.
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Old 03-16-2009 | 02:56 PM
  #6013  
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Originally Posted by mfrosty
So I'm ordering an engine from Massive Mods today and I can't decide which one I want, the MM5 5 or 7 port. Anyone here run them? Help me decide! I have an O.S. Speed carb that's going on it and a Dyn 086 pipe. My LHS carries the 0801 for a decent price too so that might be an option next week. Be running on larger outdoor tracks.

Thanks!



@ MarK (MM) do these come with ceramics installed?

Hey Frosty

No we dont use ceramics, i personallly dont think they are good value when it comes to price versus longevity. The Go Stock bearing is probably one of the best rear bearings ive ever come across.

Re The Go Carb

id say 80 % of the problems reported about the carb are due to user error. the other 20% may have resulted in past faults that have long been rectified , im talking about 12 months ago. .. The new carb with long LSN tunes differently to traditional carbs. Personally i like the new carb and Long LSN , I have made sure that people know about how to tune them and they are getting excellent results and major tank time.



Buggy average 11.2 mins 0801 pipe 6.5 mm restrictor epa 65% .4 shim
Truggy average 12.5 mins

The New carb is designed to be very simple once you understand how it works.

Tune it from the LSN only till you get 3/4 of the rev range right

then fine tune the HSN ( you are within 1/4 turn from performance tune )

Simple

Also simple to reference stock settings Flush HSN Flush LSN, as opposed to 12 turns in 3.9 turns back , do the hokey pokey etc etc and hope for the best lol

Thats what its all about
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Old 03-16-2009 | 02:59 PM
  #6014  
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you find clearance from deck height not the amount of shims the engine has.to check deck height you need solder and a digi calliper squish the solder between the outside of the piston and edge of the head button at TDC and musure it. Im sure the modders can let you know what deck height runs best with what nitro percent with these motors
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Old 03-16-2009 | 03:00 PM
  #6015  
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Originally Posted by MassiveMods
Hey Frosty

No we dont use ceramics, i personallly dont think they are good value when it comes to price versus longevity. The Go Stock bearing is probably one of the best rear bearings ive ever come across.

Re The Go Carb

id say 80 % of the problems reported about the carb are due to user error. the other 20% may have resulted in past faults that have long been rectified , im talking about 12 months ago. .. The new carb with long LSN tunes differently to traditional carbs. Personally i like the new carb and Long LSN , I have made sure that people know about how to tune them and they are getting excellent results and major tank time.



Buggy average 11.2 mins 0801 pipe 6.5 mm restrictor epa 65% .4 shim
Truggy average 12.5 mins

The New carb is designed to be very simple once you understand how it works.

Tune it from the LSN only till you get 3/4 of the rev range right

then fine tune the HSN ( you are within 1/4 turn from performance tune )

Simple

Also simple to reference stock settings Flush HSN Flush LSN, as opposed to 12 turns in 3.9 turns back , do the hokey pokey etc etc and hope for the best lol

Thats what its all about
I'll just try them both and see which one I like better
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