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Old 01-10-2009 | 12:32 PM
  #5371  
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Originally Posted by Rocket42
please send me an email at [email protected] we are replacing the long needles on any engine purchased within the U.S.
Rocket42,
e-mail sent.
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Old 01-10-2009 | 08:23 PM
  #5372  
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Losi 2.0 with a RB Mods Go 5pt, running a ths 816 pipe losi 4shoe all aluminum shoes 2 gold 2 green. I absolutely LOVE this set up!! 5-5-2 in the diffs, very controllable!
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Old 01-11-2009 | 11:05 AM
  #5373  
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Originally Posted by meno222
for the guys that use the go .21 5 port in a buggy, what springs are you guys using.to tame the bottom,i already bought the 086 pipe,to help it, should i use 1.0 or .9 springs.iam going to put it on a cen matrix fre with 5,5,2 in the diff.should i get a smaller restrictor.iam on a budget and i dont want to spend money experimenting when i could try a set up that works with you guys.i bought this engine used before i realized this was better for a truggy.but i got a good deal so i want to make it work. thanks
i run dynmite max life w/1.0 ofna' spings w/086 on stock 5pt w/ os speed carb feels good to me

a go 5pt w/086 in a buggy rocks!!!!!!!
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Old 01-11-2009 | 04:38 PM
  #5374  
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Guys I recently got a 3port race with about a gallon through it and was in storage for about 6 months. Prior to storage after run oil was applied but the engine was not cleaned out.

When I ran it on my buggy (Hyper 7), it fired up and idled ok but would sputter and die if I gave it gas. I took the engine apart and gave it a thorough clean and lube before putting it back together, unfortunately that did not solve the problem. Changing to an OS carb (from an old VSPEC not the J type carb with the red OS restrictor) helped some but it would only run decently after running it down our local track's straight 4x WOT with it sputtering away. Sputter goes away midtrack on the 4th run. It would run smoothly after that but once it cools down I have to do the same thing again.

The fuel and air filter systems are ok. Am not sure about the type of GO carb installed but it looks like the one with the long LSN. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
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Old 01-11-2009 | 04:57 PM
  #5375  
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Grind the lsn from 2.6 down to 2.42 and just radius the end. Sounds like your bottom end is too rich and the top too lean. Too much idle gap.

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Old 01-11-2009 | 05:19 PM
  #5376  
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Thanks Rex I'll try that.
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Old 01-11-2009 | 05:30 PM
  #5377  
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before u go grinding try midrange!!!!!
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Old 01-11-2009 | 05:50 PM
  #5378  
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Can you turn a regular go .25 6 port into a turbo?
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Old 01-11-2009 | 06:03 PM
  #5379  
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They are still working on a turbo button for the .25. I think it has enough power anyway but I would run a turbo button if it was available.


The grinding I was talking about was on the Go carb not the Os. sorry. I've never seen anyone run a short lsn on an Os.

Rex
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Old 01-11-2009 | 06:04 PM
  #5380  
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Originally Posted by snookums
Guys I recently got a 3port race with about a gallon through it and was in storage for about 6 months. Prior to storage after run oil was applied but the engine was not cleaned out.

When I ran it on my buggy (Hyper 7), it fired up and idled ok but would sputter and die if I gave it gas. I took the engine apart and gave it a thorough clean and lube before putting it back together, unfortunately that did not solve the problem. Changing to an OS carb (from an old VSPEC not the J type carb with the red OS restrictor) helped some but it would only run decently after running it down our local track's straight 4x WOT with it sputtering away. Sputter goes away midtrack on the 4th run. It would run smoothly after that but once it cools down I have to do the same thing again.

The fuel and air filter systems are ok. Am not sure about the type of GO carb installed but it looks like the one with the long LSN. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
You probably have a carb with the long LSN. These tune a little different to most carbs out there. Set the HSN at .5 of a turn in from flush and the LSN at 2.5 turns in from flush. This should be pretty close. Don't touch the HSN again, just tune in from here with the LSN. If you go any leaner on the HSN you will get lean bog at the top end or when the tank gets down. Set like this the motor will perform flawlessly, but if you prefer a more "normal" tune on your motor, then grind down the LSN as Rex suggests. It works very well, and allows you to tune with the HSN as per any other motor. You will end up with HSN at about 2.5 - 3 turns in from flush and the LSN about the same as before, maybe a little leaner - around 2.5 - 3.5 turns in from flush (depending on pipe, fuel etc). Let us know how you get on
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Old 01-12-2009 | 11:14 AM
  #5381  
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Okay, So I tried searching this thread but I'm still confused.
I want to pick up a Go 3 port sport. Am I right that you can buy a turbo head button thing and make the motor more powerful?
Where would I get that, and how do you install it? Is it simple?

I basically want a really low price engine to practice my driving, I have an RC8. Getting a 3 port sport with turbo button sounds like the ceapest way.
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Old 01-12-2009 | 11:26 AM
  #5382  
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Originally Posted by wick3dr00st3r
Okay, So I tried searching this thread but I'm still confused.
I want to pick up a Go 3 port sport. Am I right that you can buy a turbo head button thing and make the motor more powerful?
Where would I get that, and how do you install it? Is it simple?

I basically want a really low price engine to practice my driving, I have an RC8. Getting a 3 port sport with turbo button sounds like the ceapest way.
whats wrong with 3port race spec only $179
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Old 01-12-2009 | 11:35 AM
  #5383  
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Well the sport is only 100 bucks. And if the turbo head isn't too expensive, i would be spending alot less. How different is the performance?
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Old 01-12-2009 | 11:47 AM
  #5384  
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Originally Posted by wick3dr00st3r
Well the sport is only 100 bucks. And if the turbo head isn't too expensive, i would be spending alot less. How different is the performance?
the sports really a leisure engine...ok if you just want to bash around your backyard but if you have any racing aspirations or want to progress your driving skills then go with the race spec....if you buy the sport and then find you want to go faster you gotta buy a faster engine ....you can always run a top spec motor gently to start ..you'll have to run it in for about a gallon anyway which is plenty of time to practice your driving...then you have the power to do whatever you want...my opinion for what its worth...


ps I think the turbo head button is about 15 bucks...you only need the button not an entire head..assuming the sport version uses a separate head button that is..I've never looked ...some manufacturers use all in one cooling head/button assemblies on lower price models..
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Old 01-12-2009 | 12:20 PM
  #5385  
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How far would you say the performance gap is between a sport and a race 3 port?
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