MAX XXL3 .12 engine
01-02-2009 | 05:59 PM
#61
Thats interesting.. my XL3 and XXL3's came with 0.3mm head shim. XL3 is rad, but I have high hopes for the XXL3. Larger crank bore than the XL3, maybe after Nigel breaks in my XXL3 while I am in colorado for some "personal" business we can do some side by side testing of the XL3 vs XXL3. Two NT1's and Two maxs 
lol.. good times
also the XL3 and XXL3 come shimmed for up to 25% nitro. 30% add a 0.1mm shim etc. Or you can do the old offroad trick, add 0.2-0.3mm of shim to take the power down a bit and add more when it starts getting soft. obviously tune and plug will be different.
Cheers,
Patrick
lol.. good timesalso the XL3 and XXL3 come shimmed for up to 25% nitro. 30% add a 0.1mm shim etc. Or you can do the old offroad trick, add 0.2-0.3mm of shim to take the power down a bit and add more when it starts getting soft. obviously tune and plug will be different.
Cheers,
Patrick
01-02-2009 | 06:00 PM
#62
01-02-2009 | 06:05 PM
#63
lol probably. the headbutton on the sl3 is different to the new XXL3 as well. i think the XXL3 uses the standard nova headbutton instead of that funny weird button that was used in the SL3.
anyone have any advice if the head clearance is safe with the XXL3? a .1 shim as standard seems a bit low to me.
i know that headshims has to do with heat, % of nitro, sea elevation and a whole heap of other things, but any advice?
i'm thinking to stick to .3mm shims just to be safe. anyone played around with putting shims under the sleeve to changing the timing?
anyone have any advice if the head clearance is safe with the XXL3? a .1 shim as standard seems a bit low to me.
i know that headshims has to do with heat, % of nitro, sea elevation and a whole heap of other things, but any advice?
i'm thinking to stick to .3mm shims just to be safe. anyone played around with putting shims under the sleeve to changing the timing?
cheers,
01-02-2009 | 11:11 PM
#64
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,120
From: www.moorebankraceway.com
Thats interesting.. my XL3 and XXL3's came with 0.3mm head shim. XL3 is rad, but I have high hopes for the XXL3. Larger crank bore than the XL3, maybe after Nigel breaks in my XXL3 while I am in colorado for some "personal" business we can do some side by side testing of the XL3 vs XXL3. Two NT1's and Two maxs lol.. good times
also the XL3 and XXL3 come shimmed for up to 25% nitro. 30% add a 0.1mm shim etc. Or you can do the old offroad trick, add 0.2-0.3mm of shim to take the power down a bit and add more when it starts getting soft. obviously tune and plug will be different.
Cheers,
Patrick
lol.. good timesalso the XL3 and XXL3 come shimmed for up to 25% nitro. 30% add a 0.1mm shim etc. Or you can do the old offroad trick, add 0.2-0.3mm of shim to take the power down a bit and add more when it starts getting soft. obviously tune and plug will be different.
Cheers,
Patrick
01-03-2009 | 06:56 AM
#66
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,120
From: www.moorebankraceway.com
01-03-2009 | 12:05 PM
#68
01-03-2009 | 08:54 PM
#70
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,120
From: www.moorebankraceway.com
01-04-2009 | 03:16 PM
#71
If you want to be sure check the squish by putting a piece of solder between the piston and headbutton, a safe squish for a nova engine is 0.5-0.6mm any lower than that and you have a high change for detonation.
I would check it first before running the engine, despite people overhere saying it's safe with .1 mm
If the engine is new, first heat the engine and then give it a full rotation with the piece of solder in place.
I would check it first before running the engine, despite people overhere saying it's safe with .1 mm
If the engine is new, first heat the engine and then give it a full rotation with the piece of solder in place.
01-04-2009 | 07:24 PM
#72
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,120
From: www.moorebankraceway.com
If you want to be sure check the squish by putting a piece of solder between the piston and headbutton, a safe squish for a nova engine is 0.5-0.6mm any lower than that and you have a high change for detonation.
I would check it first before running the engine, despite people overhere saying it's safe with .1 mm
If the engine is new, first heat the engine and then give it a full rotation with the piece of solder in place.
I would check it first before running the engine, despite people overhere saying it's safe with .1 mm
If the engine is new, first heat the engine and then give it a full rotation with the piece of solder in place.
01-05-2009 | 12:18 AM
#73
01-05-2009 | 08:12 PM
#75
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,120
From: www.moorebankraceway.com