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Old 12-15-2008, 03:43 PM   #31
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does anyone have the internal hole diameter of the crank?
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Old 12-16-2008, 08:06 AM   #32
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Hi Guys, just to make sure, Can the XL3 piston & sleeve fit into the SL3 crankcase?
I think so
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Old 12-17-2008, 02:30 AM   #33
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does anyone have the internal hole diameter of the crank?
yea small
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Old 12-17-2008, 07:38 PM   #34
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the xxl3 is in its on right a very fast motor but if you truly want the fastest motor on the market and if your wallet will allow you get the eagle tl3-t no other .12 produces the top end speed that this motor has.
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Old 12-17-2008, 08:44 PM   #35
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yea small
lol, get outta here you pirate!
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Old 12-17-2008, 08:51 PM   #36
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TomB can you measure it for me plz?
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Old 12-17-2008, 10:43 PM   #37
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TomB can you measure it for me plz?
i'll prob be picking it up tonight. not sure if i can measure it until i pass a tank or so through the engine as the conrod is usually very hard to get of the crank pin when the engine is new. i'll run a tank through it then check after the days break in.

i'm guessing it's the same as the SL3 and it is 11.5
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Old 12-18-2008, 08:45 AM   #38
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All novarossi based engines that are not named Novarossi, are 11.5mm... Only 11.9mm engines are the 12-SCT and the 353
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Old 12-20-2008, 03:25 AM   #39
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just ran 7 tanks through my XXL3 today a few things i noticed:

-is the piston smaller in the XXL3? as when i went to open up the engine the piston and conrod just poped of the crank pin when i tiped it upside down. i've never had this happen with a new never turned over engine.

-the sleeve on the XXL3 seems to have a wider top lip, the screws from the heatsink have a half moon cut out on the lip of the top of the sleeve.

-the XXL3 seems alot easier to break in than the SL3. the piston does not lock up like a MF whenever you go to start it up. infact you don't need a hairdryer to start up a new engine like you needed with the SL3 when it was new.

-the XXL3 only has a .1mm headshim! i added another .5mm headshims just to be safe. Ran fine, broke in pritty easy with this setup.

it is still runing rich-ish and it is ready to be race tuned.

break in proceedure

-idled for one tank at factory setings (wrapped head in aluminium foil, kept it at 90 degrees celcius)
-idled for half a tank (wrapped head in aluminium foil, kept it at 90 degrees to 100 degrees celcius) then bliped the throttle for the rest of the tank on the bench (Factory settings, no alfoil)

-drove it for the next 5 tanks on my home track with incremental adjustments to top end and a few touches of the bottom end.
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Old 12-20-2008, 11:23 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by TomB View Post
just ran 7 tanks through my XXL3 today a few things i noticed:

-is the piston smaller in the XXL3? as when i went to open up the engine the piston and conrod just poped of the crank pin when i tiped it upside down. i've never had this happen with a new never turned over engine.

-the sleeve on the XXL3 seems to have a wider top lip, the screws from the heatsink have a half moon cut out on the lip of the top of the sleeve.

-the XXL3 seems alot easier to break in than the SL3. the piston does not lock up like a MF whenever you go to start it up. infact you don't need a hairdryer to start up a new engine like you needed with the SL3 when it was new.

-the XXL3 only has a .1mm headshim! i added another .5mm headshims just to be safe. Ran fine, broke in pritty easy with this setup.

it is still runing rich-ish and it is ready to be race tuned.

break in proceedure

-idled for one tank at factory setings (wrapped head in aluminium foil, kept it at 90 degrees celcius)
-idled for half a tank (wrapped head in aluminium foil, kept it at 90 degrees to 100 degrees celcius) then bliped the throttle for the rest of the tank on the bench (Factory settings, no alfoil)

-drove it for the next 5 tanks on my home track with incremental adjustments to top end and a few touches of the bottom end.
All i can say is; any one who runs an engine in like that is in for some real speed and fast lap times!!! lol oops!!
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Old 12-21-2008, 12:49 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomB View Post

break in proceedure

-idled for one tank at factory setings (wrapped head in aluminium foil, kept it at 90 degrees celcius)
-idled for half a tank (wrapped head in aluminium foil, kept it at 90 degrees to 100 degrees celcius) then bliped the throttle for the rest of the tank on the bench (Factory settings, no alfoil)

-drove it for the next 5 tanks on my home track with incremental adjustments to top end and a few touches of the bottom end.
Some roasted potatos and carrots, abit of garlic, and back in the oven for another 20mins would of completed this!
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Old 12-22-2008, 01:49 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
Some roasted potatos and carrots, abit of garlic, and back in the oven for another 20mins would of completed this!
lol probably. the headbutton on the sl3 is different to the new XXL3 as well. i think the XXL3 uses the standard nova headbutton instead of that funny weird button that was used in the SL3.


anyone have any advice if the head clearance is safe with the XXL3? a .1 shim as standard seems a bit low to me.

i know that headshims has to do with heat, % of nitro, sea elevation and a whole heap of other things, but any advice?

i'm thinking to stick to .3mm shims just to be safe. anyone played around with putting shims under the sleeve to changing the timing?
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Old 12-22-2008, 06:15 PM   #43
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could someone please tell me how much a piston and sleeve set for the xxl3 cost?
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Old 12-22-2008, 07:07 PM   #44
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US$236.00 to US$314.75
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Old 12-23-2008, 03:38 AM   #45
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US$236.00 to US$314.75
hmm... a jl3+2607 combo price

sam, why are you running JP/max instead of jl now?
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