CarbonJoe

From what I've seen from the team drivers using the latest F/W at Cleveland, you'd better drop 4 - 5 teeth on your pinion or you'll heat that motor up quite a bit if you are using the "Timing Boost" feature.

Grenade10

iTrader: (40)

Just got the 4PK working last night and it's the same in it as well.

SpraydbySprague

iTrader: (64)

Don't forget 4wd electric off road as well. They work the ESC just as much, and in a more hostile environment. Heat, heat, and more heat.

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

My understanding is this should not be a problem, due to the fact that they dont run motors as low wind as on-road mod touring. Although it might be safer to go with the Pro, i think that reps have posted here that you only really need the pro for mod touring car.

The standard is "Motor Limit Brushless Mode: 5 Turn, 36mm can"

I dont run off road but im assuming you would just be getting massive wheel spin and dig holes in the track with a 4.5 or faster mounted.

CDW

I am probably the 1000th person to ask this but what is the difference between the RS and the RS Pro? Which would you recommend for someone running 12th stock? Is there any advantages of getting the PRO over the non-pro other than motor limit?

Thanks guys for your time,

dgullickson

iTrader: (45)

RS - you cannot run anything less than a 5t

RS PRO - Run whatever you want.

I usually recommend an RS to those running 19t or Stock (save yourself some $$), and recommend the RS PRO to those running Mod Sedan or 4wheel Mod Offroad.

Grenade10

iTrader: (40)

And if you run 1/12 scale, the RS is shorter in height up off the chassis so it fits under the low bodies, and it weights a little less ..... all good things!!!

Keep it up guy's!

mangoman

iTrader: (11)

They say the pro version has more fets in it, something to help it with the faster motors **SHRUG**

Its slightly heavier, but can run bigger motors. Looking at the stats it has less resistance but i dont know if that means anything significant.

Adam?

I think maybe full boost is excessive for a Novak 13.5. :-D I had to gear it down like 8 teeth, and it still ran hot. It seems pretty quick on the straights, but a bit gutless in the middle. I'm gonna hold off and wait for the official release. Hopefully new profiles from the team guys will show up quick.

stocker

iTrader: (2)

yeah, double the FETs in parallel will half the overall resistance and double the current capability.

TRF415boy

If you're running full boost and have the motor timing up to max then you're over-timing it, which causes more heat for no more power. Back the timing until you see a loss in speed.

Quante

iTrader: (6)

Will this be an option on the R1 as well???
And when will the new software update for the R1 be available??

I run a R1 in 1/12th on 4 cells and I need more timing than the hotwire can give me.
Isnt it possible to just link timing advance to throttle input?? Start with low timing for torque (and less startup probs on the sensorless R1) and end high for more topend)

sg1

iTrader: (79)

Did ther motor "cog"? I had full timing and 12 deg in the motor timing and it won't run. Then you have too much timing!! In 1/12 I was at 40-84 with 1.70 rear tires. The motor came off at 170 deg. and didn't fade at the end of the 8 minute race. You can also listen during the race and here the "cogging" as the race goes on coming off the turn. I used it as a tuning aid for gear ratios or timing settings. I try to run as much timing and gear LOW.
-Wayne

TRF415boy

The R1 doesn't run sensored so no there won't be an update for the R1, this is a RS only update.

The R1 already does that, low timing on low RPM and higher as the motor revs up.

Krio

iTrader: (159)

Neither the r1 or rs changes the timing as the rpm ramp up...

The only thing close is the rs in hybrid mode where the timing on the motor is used to start (set that low) and then switches to the hotwire timing (set high).

I hope the next update comes with reactive timing *hint hint tekin*