Go-Tech Engines Thread
#4546
I need some help. I'm trying to break in my GO .25 6 Port. I can't get the gas to the carb without taking the pressure tube off the header and blowing the fuel into the carb. When I'm trying to start it and squeeze the throttle the gas actually pushes out of the carb. I've sealed the backplate and the bottom of the carb with sealant. I got the black two needle carb. When I do get it started and can rev it, as soon as I remove the glow plug igniter it cuts off. I heat the head with a blow dryer and wrap the head with foil to get the temps up.
HALP!!
HALP!!
Rex
#4547
I need some help. I'm trying to break in my GO .25 6 Port. I can't get the gas to the carb without taking the pressure tube off the header and blowing the fuel into the carb. When I'm trying to start it and squeeze the throttle the gas actually pushes out of the carb. I've sealed the backplate and the bottom of the carb with sealant. I got the black two needle carb. When I do get it started and can rev it, as soon as I remove the glow plug igniter it cuts off. I heat the head with a blow dryer and wrap the head with foil to get the temps up.
HALP!!
HALP!!
If it's blocked you will be running super lean and engine will start but won't keep running more than a few seconds.
Sometimes the fuel will squirt out of the carb throat when starting. Don't run your engine without the air filter for long though. Any dirt or dust down the carb throat is a recipe for disaster
#4548
Tech Addict
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 502
From: Surprise! No, really.
I need some help. I'm trying to break in my GO .25 6 Port. I can't get the gas to the carb without taking the pressure tube off the header and blowing the fuel into the carb. When I'm trying to start it and squeeze the throttle the gas actually pushes out of the carb. I've sealed the backplate and the bottom of the carb with sealant. I got the black two needle carb. When I do get it started and can rev it, as soon as I remove the glow plug igniter it cuts off. I heat the head with a blow dryer and wrap the head with foil to get the temps up.
HALP!!
HALP!!
T
#4550
By "pushes out of the carb", you're saying it flows backward away from the fuel intake nipple right? If this is what's happening, it's very likely a pressure problem like Grizz1 was suggesting, and it could be any part of the pressure system. Check very carefully: the header nipple(read Grizz1 notes), fuel tank lid, pressure test fuel tank, exhaust gaskets/seals, replace fuel tubing if it's not brand new.
T
T
#4553
What's the best way to get a sleeve out (without destroying it) that refuses to come out of the crankcase even when heated. Is there a tool out there besides the one's that cost as much as a new engine. (ex. GRP tooling kit $179.00) I want to replace the rod and wrist pin in my 7 port. It has about 2 gallons through it and I can tell the rod is shot. There is still lots of compression in the engine and I want to use it still.
#4554
Its best to attach a flywheel to the engine and tighten it down. heat up the case a little and place a fairly large zip tie thru the exhaust opening. Then turn the flywheel and force the piston up on the zip tie, it is ok to use pliers on the flywheel. Once the sleeve is popped up slightly i like to spray a little wd-40 onto the sleeve and slowly and very very carefully pry it out with a screwdriver, be sure to work your way around the sleeve and remember to be careful, once you can get your fingers around the sleeve grab it with a shop towl and pull it out.
#4555
Its best to attach a flywheel to the engine and tighten it down. heat up the case a little and place a fairly large zip tie thru the exhaust opening. Then turn the flywheel and force the piston up on the zip tie, it is ok to use pliers on the flywheel. Once the sleeve is popped up slightly i like to spray a little wd-40 onto the sleeve and slowly and very very carefully pry it out with a screwdriver, be sure to work your way around the sleeve and remember to be careful, once you can get your fingers around the sleeve grab it with a shop towl and pull it out.
Just to clarify I put the zip tie down from the top of the engine and put the Knuckle of the tie into the exhaust outlet then turn it over with the flywheel,
not in from the rear of the engine through the exhaust out let as I find it's easier to keep it where you want it so it doesn't slip in to far a get sliced off by the piston
Adrian
#4556
Hi El Tigre - Take your fuel tank out. Make up a plug with a small piece of fuel tubing bent over itself and clamped together using a small cable tie (also handy for plugging the fuel nipple on your engine when it's out for maintenance etc).
Put this plug on the nipple that comes out of the tank itself. Connect a length of fuel tubing to the pressure inlet nipple on the tank lid.
Now fill your kitchen sink (best do this when the lady of the house is out of sight
). Place the tank entirely under water and blow into the fuel tubing connected to the lid. If any bubbles come out of the tank you have a leak.
Most common places are around the sealed edge where the two halfs of the tank are joined, or from the lid due to a faulty "O" ring or a weak spring. If in any doubt, replace the tank. They are not expensive and it's safer than trying to glue up cracks etc.
Be sure to thourghly dry the tank off and flush some fuel through the tank before using it again. You do not want even a hint of water mixed in with your fuel.
Put this plug on the nipple that comes out of the tank itself. Connect a length of fuel tubing to the pressure inlet nipple on the tank lid.
Now fill your kitchen sink (best do this when the lady of the house is out of sight
). Place the tank entirely under water and blow into the fuel tubing connected to the lid. If any bubbles come out of the tank you have a leak.Most common places are around the sealed edge where the two halfs of the tank are joined, or from the lid due to a faulty "O" ring or a weak spring. If in any doubt, replace the tank. They are not expensive and it's safer than trying to glue up cracks etc.
Be sure to thourghly dry the tank off and flush some fuel through the tank before using it again. You do not want even a hint of water mixed in with your fuel.
#4558
Hi El Tigre - Take your fuel tank out. Make up a plug with a small piece of fuel tubing bent over itself and clamped together using a small cable tie (also handy for plugging the fuel nipple on your engine when it's out for maintenance etc).
Put this plug on the nipple that comes out of the tank itself. Connect a length of fuel tubing to the pressure inlet nipple on the tank lid.
Now fill your kitchen sink (best do this when the lady of the house is out of sight
). Place the tank entirely under water and blow into the fuel tubing connected to the lid. If any bubbles come out of the tank you have a leak.
Most common places are around the sealed edge where the two halfs of the tank are joined, or from the lid due to a faulty "O" ring or a weak spring. If in any doubt, replace the tank. They are not expensive and it's safer than trying to glue up cracks etc.
Be sure to thourghly dry the tank off and flush some fuel through the tank before using it again. You do not want even a hint of water mixed in with your fuel.
Put this plug on the nipple that comes out of the tank itself. Connect a length of fuel tubing to the pressure inlet nipple on the tank lid.
Now fill your kitchen sink (best do this when the lady of the house is out of sight
). Place the tank entirely under water and blow into the fuel tubing connected to the lid. If any bubbles come out of the tank you have a leak.Most common places are around the sealed edge where the two halfs of the tank are joined, or from the lid due to a faulty "O" ring or a weak spring. If in any doubt, replace the tank. They are not expensive and it's safer than trying to glue up cracks etc.
Be sure to thourghly dry the tank off and flush some fuel through the tank before using it again. You do not want even a hint of water mixed in with your fuel.
Makes sense. Thanks for the info. I will do that tonight (and wait til the missus is gone).
#4559
I've got a Losi 8ight. I'm looking at putting an .21 7-port standard plug in it. Whats the best Dynamite for it? I've heard the 089 but also heard the 053 will be a good one also. The tracks I run on really range but a lot of mid and low power is what i need. Local guys say the 089(high end) will give me the greatest range of power but idk which one to get. Thanks.



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