Has anyone used a Novarossi plug on his GO?
If yes what plugs work well with the .21 Gos?
Novarossi has a LARGE line of spark plugs and gets complicated!!!

Heres some pretty cool race results for GO Engines !

SDMCC (Adelaide) Race results Sunday 13th July 2008

MT:

TQ GO 21 5 port Myles Cooper MM SCORP 16%

1st GO 21 5 port Myles Cooper MM SCORP 16%

2nd GO 28 Darren Neilson MM HB444 25%

Truggy:

TQ GO 21 7 port Glenn Boyd MM HB444 25%

1st GO 21 7 port Glenn Boyd MM HB444 25%

Buggy:

1st GO 21 5 port Peter McGill MM HB444 25%

quick question does anyone have any carb movement on their motors. just wondering cause i noticed some on my 5port turbo. ive tightend the carb retainer bolt and that didnt help and i dont remember it having any when i first got it. as far as up and down movement there is none at all but side to side there is. any help would be great

that sounds like you have one of the earlier carbs where the metal part seperates from the plastic the fix for that was to run a seal of jbweld around where the 2 meet. im sure there are pictures somewhere of how this can be fixed. if i knew on what page of this thread i could help

It has happened on occasion with a few motors. Cheesecake has it solved. You may also like to check the chocolate coloured "O" ring that sits in the crankcase body at the base of the carb. You may find it is worn and frayed. Throw a new "O" ring in and seal the carb when you put it back in with RTV sealer. Make sure you hold the carb down really firmly on that bottom "O" ring when tightening up the pinch bolt (not too tight on that pinch bolt, that's what breaks the metal plastic join!!). This should fix your problem. Also check the spring tensions on your throttle / brake controls. Too much tension can put added strain and side movement on the carb under hard braking causing that bottom "O" ring to wear and allow some movement.

Hey cheese - that paper weight pun on your signature is none to subtle. Seems all the guys running Go-Tech's in my neck of the woods are very happy with them, and they are performing admirably against the high end motors. With our current $ exchange rate here in NZ, the Tech's offer very good value for money.

yes it will work

I usually stop the flywheel but its more that the truggy runs fine, then the next time i come to start it the plug is blown. I have a feeling i might be on the lean side then. Come to think of it it has happened when the tank has run dry thus being lean. Thanks Rex!

Paul

Hey guys, my parents just got me a GRP for my birthday and so I think I'm going to sell my Go's. I am going to put a formal post in the for sale section, but would rather sell to you guys that know the motors first. I would look for $160obo shipped for each. I'm working out of town until Friday, but will post pics over the weekend if anybody is interested?

I have:

1.) a 2008 PTM modded 3 port that was used for one race day (after break-in). There is a very small amount of play where the carb sleeve attaches to the carb (easily remedied with JB Weld). It is not even really noticeable and does not affect performance, but I like to be as up front as possible with regards to everything that I sell (I take my 100% feedback on here and ebay (1soccerlaw) very seriously). This engine absolutely screams.

and

2.) a 2008 6 port .25. I had an issue with this engine during break-in and so to be on the safe side was completely rebuilt with all new parts (besides cooling head) by race factor. As this engine is built with entirely new parts, it will therefore need to be broken in from scratch. Even before being rebuilt, this engine was never even raced. I will also include all of the parts that were replaced as I think most can be reused.

If nobody is interested, I'll probably just keep them as back-ups. There is usually somebody at the track with engine problems that I'm sure would appreciate strapping rockets like these to their cars!

does anyone have pics of the carb fix listed above? i have a race this weekend and i have to have my GO. its the only thing i will run anymore

No pics but I will try to break it down. I had to do this on 5 port. I will start buy saying this usually happens when you try to remove the carb with a hard twisting motion. There is a plastic thermal sleeve (thats what I call It) that is inside the carb neck. it is attached to the neck by 3 plastic tack points. Those are the 3 round black dots toward the top of the neck. If they get broke the carb will spin. Usually when this happens people just try to tighten the setting pin. This will not solve the problem but will you just end up over tightening it and carb will still spin.
So the goal is to lock down the thermal sleeve to the carb neck and keep it from spinning. I used JB weld because it will dry hard. I applied a small amount on the plastic sleeve put it together and let it sit and cure.

Although this was not the kind of patch job I like to do on my gear, it did give me some more use from that carb.

Hope this helps
T.

so do you put it on the plastic that is inside the aluminum sleeve. by the way thanks for the help

In my case I removed the carb and the metal sleeve stayed in the engine block.
So, I was left with then plastic base of the carb. If you do think that this is your problem i would try to remove the metal sleeve from the plastic base. The tack points may be broke loose allowing it to spin, The metal sleeve may not want to slide off easy. Just make sure this is your problem. I don't want you to break those plastic tack points if there are fine. If so figure a way to get the metal sleeve off and then use JB weld between the plastic base and the metal sleeve.

I see this as a bad design. It can be fine if you know it is built that way. With my past motors I always twisted the carb to loosen it and then remove it. With this design you just need to pull it straight out.

Good Luck,

T.

Is it me or was my 08' 3 port race engine a pain in the ass to break in. 1st thru 2nd tank could not get it to idle without igniter on it. Every time I took it off it would shut off. I had hs needle flush and lsn about a turn in. Seemed if I took igniter off and rev to 1/4 throttle it would bog and shut off. I tried letting it idle with and without igniter and rich bof out. I put a new plug in thinking I blew the orig P3 I put in , but the same thing. I ended up putting the old plug back. Finally after 2 frustrating tanks I went to settings in instructions and threw it on ground and 1/4 throttled it around. It actually kept going. I kept thinking it was gonna bog, but it didn't. The lsn is so sensitive. I got a full tank this way and did tank 4 the same way. It held idle!
I have the old style on the way, but and afraid to touch it. I'm gonna keep the settings this way it is finish breaking in.
Anybody have a starting point for the "old style" needle if I decide to switch it?

the GEN 5 carbs no longer have this setup but you should always toally remome the pinch bolts and only pull the carb straight out just to be safe

Adrian

Most likely a tune problem. I had a similar thing happen a while back where I would often go to start one of my motors after a run and find the plug was dead. My idle gap was too wide and I ended up running way too rich on the bottom and too lean on the top. Although the motor ran ok, it killed plugs like they were going out of fashion. Just check your needle settings and idle gap (no more then .7 - 1mm).