Will undershimming cause the problems I have described?

ah..I see

well i installed the extra 1..20%break in ..but ill change to 30% when this gal. is done.


as for the new version...my crank case is black and the carb end is also black..not silver ...no sure if its the same for 5p and 7p.

Was this on a new engine?

also how did the needle (the problem 1) look?

yes, detination, or predetination. even though these little basterds don't have a coil, they can fire before or after TDC, on our modified engines i like to run between 22 and 24 thou, with much more agressive timming we can end up with only one shim, but the engines that get sold are set to have a varience of between 22 and 24. you would be suprised how many new out of the box engines and i mean all brands not just one fire befor TDC or after. a pre or detinating motor will blow plugs and eat coils out of glow plugs, and a worn rod will also cause this detination and eratic running, so get some shims and do a bolt check and everything should be good, and also try a different brand if the others are not working out. I havn't had problems wiith OS but alot of people say some come dead even though there new. Odonnol plugs are also good.

yes that is the 08 engine, and if your running 20 for sure go to 30, when they have the correct shimms that is what tyhey are shimmed for is 30, the 3 5 and 7 all have the black case.

Damn...like a friggin ninja!!! Swooped in out of the dark and posted before I could.

as for needles, the only one i change is the LS, you can run a NR LS or the old GO LSN.

22-24...can i measure that putting all the shims together(even the silver 1)..and ck it with a dial caliper?

correction, not sure if the NR fit's the GO carb, but i do use the GO LS often.

yes you can use a dial caliper.....ha ha I answered before ninja Brian!!!!!!!



That better?

but your not using it

I answered a ??? before ninja Brian got to it......that's what I'm talkin' bout.

Somebody ask an engine question...let's see if I can answer right before Brian.

I use a depth indicator, and measure the piston at TDC, and then the hight of the button, the space inbetween will give you your squish or deck hight, if you engine will roll over without getting stuck at TDC, you can do the solder test, this will get you in the ball park if you don't have depth indicators, it really alot faster only a bit less accurate, but it will get you close.

Im liking the good info on this forum..gota love it. thx.
And i do have the tools to do that..so when its broke in..ill do just that