Skeller,

Is the OCM Redline 3 chamber pipe?

Can you please briefly describe the power characteristics of the Redline pipe?

How does the Rdline pipe compare to the Go 0801 pipe?

Thank you

Honestly...I don't know any details on the pipe. It doesn't have a number...and outwardly it most resembles an 053. So far it seems to offer good power all through the rpm range...most noteably on the bottom end.

Thanks Shane, much appreciated.

Anytime.

Hi chim - yep they are tight for a while. Depending on the run in procedure you used they can take up to 1 gallon before they free up a bit, and up to 2 gallons before they are fully bedded in and rocking - but it's worth the wait Are you running the extra run in shim supplied with the motor ? This helps a lot with break in, making the motor a little easier to start and run while it's so tight. Take the shim out when it starts to loosen up some.
I believe the 3 Ports are not quite as tight from new.


D Hunt 3 - Good starting point for the 5 Port Turbo is HSN flush and LSN 1.5 turns in from flush. The HSN is pretty much right at flush, then you can lean the LSN some more for a wicked bottom end. These motors like to run a little fat on top and a little lean down the bottom.

Im looking to order a 5 port, it looks like some of you have had carb problems that are easily fixed. Do the 08 models have this problem fixed? Who has the 08 models in stock? Thanks guys

Hi guys, me again. Seems like the temps on the temp gun I mentioned before were way out, if anything I was still a little too rich.

I had my first race today with my Hyper ST and Go 21 5 port, was awesome.

I had a nightmare of a final though. Engine died one the start line and then proceeded to be hard to start and then died everytime the revs got too low. When starting it would start, run for about 10 seconds and then die, no matter whether I had the throttle half, full or at idle?????

What could cause this?

It ran faultlessly otherwise during the qualifiers and temped at the end of each of those at around 240F with the ambient around the 65F to 70F mark

During the final I had to change the brand new plug I had put in before the 4 5 minute qualifiers with a new one to get it to run properly.

There is still good smoke to the point that it runs stupid rich when cold and the top of the piston and the roof of the button is really black, which I was told was good????

Why is it behaving this way and chewing up glow plugs like that? The glow plug I removed still works, but not all the way up the filament. I have used 3 glow plugs since last nights practise which I managed about 4 tanks only.

Just to recap, it is a Go 21 5 port (07 spec) running Mccoy MC-9 and Byron's 25% Gen 2. The engine has a little over 2 gallons now and still has really really good compression.

it does resemble a 053, but it may not have the same volume or stinger lenght, but shape wise, 053 all the way. this pipe on a 3 port or 5 port will yeild very strong bottom to mid, but will fall short to the top end of the 0801, and the bottom is about the same, the 0801 has a long header. It strongly resembles a NR 9886, it is awesome on the 3,5 and 7

The 08 models are rock solid, i have pressure tested a handfull of them with heat and they are air tight, pm me for 5 port details

having the top of the piston completly black is not always good, this is a sure sign of running to rich, and all the build up just sticks to the top. when it is tuned right on the LSN the top will have a dark brown shade from the center of the piston towards the exaust, this area will have this color, also what shims are you running, correcting the squish can also correct this.

I am running the standard shims, I think it's one ali and two copper (or the other way around).

I cannot run it any leaner, it just runs way too hot then. I had it running once where I thought it was absoluetly awesome, but it seemed really really hot, so I richened it up a little. It was a total handful at that point, I must add. My HSN is in from flush quote some way already.

I think I will strip herdown and give her a good going over and clean up and start again.

How would putting the other copper shim in affect it and will this help with my glow plug issue?

ok thats what it is, put the HSN at flush, and go in the same distance on the lsn that the HSN was and go from there your temps will drop bigtime and you will have more adjustability on the needles this way, and leave the shims where they are.

I will try that again, but last time I tried that, she would hardly even pull off, she was so rich.

I had my LSN in about 3 turns from flush and the HSN flush and it was so boggy and wouldn't get above 100F. She just refused to rev up, with oil and unburnt fuel spewing out of the pipe.

But I will keep at it and tune as you recommend. Will post my findings on here again.

Thanks again for your advice.

don't be hesitant to adjust the HSN when you get the bottom right, go in more on the LSN to get a good idle and pull from the bottom with a bit of hesitation, then adjust the HSN to make it run fast, it won't take much once the LSN is set right.

Just to confirm what Brian is saying - I had an almost identical problem with my 5 Port some time ago. Piston and head really black and blowing plugs all the time. It was exactly as Brian suggests. The top end was too lean and the bottom was way too rich (about 1.5 turns in my case) and yet the motor ran OK but did get hot at the end of a tank, hence the wear on the plugs.
Cured mine by setting HSN flush and LSN 1.5 in from flush, then tuning the LSN leaner 1/8th of a turn at a time until I got a steady idle that didn't drop and good take off. Then fine tuned with pinch test. Just out of interest you may want to check the idle gap as well. The other part of my problem was the idle gap was too wide, giving a false tune and idle that seemed OK but in fact the rich bottom end was compensating for a too wide an idle gap and sort of ¨flooding¨ the motor into running what seemed like normal. Set idle gap at .7 mm and tune from there. When both needles are set correctly then adjust the idle gap if necessary to get the idle speed you want.