So I’m in the middle of my second heat cycle and this mill definitely has a distinctive high pitch sound. It’s not to tight, but I’ve been heating the case to 220 with a heat gun prior to starting it each time. It’s gotten stuck at TDC a couple times. I just had to use the back of my screwdriver on the flywheel to get it loose again. It definitely likes to run cool. I have the head wrapped in tin foil and a sock on top of that and I’m having a hard time keeping it above 180…..

Thanks for the pics!

Hmmm, I have an MRT Ninja. Its been awhile since I had it apart but I don't recall seeing a ceramic rear bearing in mine. I'll look again.

Without opening mine up (GRP) and mic'ing out the ports, the sleeve looks "similar"...

The one thing I can see right off the bat on the crank is the side opposite of the leading edge is not "counter-weight" cut....

All in all looks like some of the MRT work has been incorporated....

Can't wait to run mine!

those engines are looking good! I know I really, really liked my B01A when I ran it in buggy...just a good all around engine for sure, and I would expect the GRP's to be more of the same

the promo kit on full throttle is showing 409.00. I am still debating getting one. I have been runing the p7r's with great luck and awsome power to boot. who knows maybe I will end up with some sooner or later

For the 2053 pipe how do you seal the quick link system? I have the 2 black o-rings but where do they go in order to seal it the best?

Guys are these GRP the same as the old Ninja?? I have read a lot that they are the same thing?? I have a .12 ninja and a .28 ninja and want to get a new engine..

THanks
Felix

Here you go.

I’ve always used Picco based motors that are known to have an extremely tight pinch. I’m on my 5th tank heat cycling. I took the engine apart, and everything looks spotless but I have one concern. I can actually turn the crankshaft full rotation by hand already on the GRP? Don’t get me wrong, it still has solid compression but compared to my JPX .21 that has about 2 gallons on it and I still can’t turn it over by hand. 5 tanks ago, when I installed the flywheel on the GRP I couldn’t crank it over by hand, but now I can.
My question is to those of you who have used anything other then Picco based engines. Does the pinch become considerably less in under a ½ gallon? If this is normal I will feel a lot better. Like I said I have had two JPX.21’s and they have been extremely tight even after a couple gallons

My Novarossi's, Axe Rossi's and OS Speed's all still had metal lock up at 1 gallon mark. The Axe Rossi has the most lock up still and still jams on the starter box when its cold out. I would check the sleeve fitment to the case. If the sleeve slides out really easy, that could be one thing. I find that most engines that have a tight sleeve to case hold the metal pinch for the longest time.

On the GRP website it shows using 2 o rings on the pipe so thats what I got on mine.

This is an interesting development. I guess those who have the MRT Ninja could offer some insight into this issue, but I'm wondering if the lack of pinch is not simply a function of the fact that the engine seems to be designed to run rather cool.

You have to give GRP credit though: the fit & finish on their mill is top notch; makes my Novarossi look crude and antiquated by comparison.

Truhe said 180 to 210 is what he runs so yeah.As long as your engine will idle while its hot and makes power pinch means nothing.

An engine is at its prime when mechanical pinch is gone, but compression is still great. (This is when at operating temp) Having mechanical pinch for too long puts more stress on the conrod than necessary.

The 1st night Truhe ran the GRP at Revs, it came off at 260 with an Exergen gun. I know because I pit for him, its possible he was still breaking it in a bit though. He did beat Drake that night, that was before Drake switched to GRP. The motor looks good, sounds smooth, and it seems they have increased run times. Raw power probably isnt the GRPs selling point, rather smooth power is.

those that are running this mill - how many shims are you adding for breakin with 30%?