I would run it like it is to see how you like it and go from there, yes the restrictor will change the feel a little, but going smaller will help runtime if thats important to you, GO makes a restrictor kit, it has 6.5-7-8-8.5 mm inserts, i run the 7 and 8 on my engines they do the job for runtime, thats the only reason i go smaller, they may tame the bottom a bit but i don't notice that, but they will help runtime. i would break it in with the stock 8 mm insert and get some time on it and test from there, that motor should go 8 min pretty easy with the stock 8 mm insert, if you need more runtime go to a 7 or 6.5

All,

I think I have my GO 5-port broke in. Here is the problem during turning the engine would have no bottom, felt like a bad clutch. But that wasn't it, the top end is good, since the top needle is good we kept leaning the bottom, well that got too far lean. During warm up for the main the engine felt good, but once it got up to temp it felt like it lean bogged, so I made the bottom fatter and it got a little better, but still almost no bottom.

I am running a GO 5port stock, standard plug (McCoy MC-9) 086 pipe, Byrons 30%(11%). alum clutch with 1.0 springs.

I have a turbo button coming, and I have OS P3 plugs. I'm assuming I need to fatten the top (since this plug is hotter with a turbo design) and fatten the bottom probably a whole turn out and start over. Will this help my bottem end?

Well Russell was quick to take care of the mix up the factory and is sending me a new piston, rod and sleeve this time for the 7 port, only problem is no matter what I seem to try I cannot get the old conrod off the pin in the crank. Anyone have any secret tricks for this, as this thing is tight.

Or should I just throw in the new sleeve when it arrives and run it with the old piston. The motor is still brand new so there shouldn't be any differences in the piston should there?

just use the sleeve, the rod is the same ratio so just use the new sleeve and your good to go.

Chris, fatten the top back up to close to flush, and lean the bottom, they are better with a lean bottom and fat top and fine tune from there.

What flywheel tool should I get? How bout bearing extractor as well? Once I'm done breking in my .25 6port I want to change out the bearings. Thanks

Sorry, i meant you David on the abouve post.

I would leave the bearings in, i have gotton great life out of the stock bearings, but ofna i think makes a bearing removal kit.

If you don't want to buy a bearing puller, you can put the case in the oven at 350 degrees for 20 minutes, take it out and tap on a 2x4 or block of wood and the bearings will fall out, while your case is in the oven, put your new bearings in the freezer. after you have the old bearings out, use your crank for a guide to install the new bearings, works fine. Old school bearing removal and installation.

When putting in new bearings it is better to press them in with something big enough that pushes on the outer race. If you push with a crank you are pushing on the balls too much and could damage the new bearing. Keeping everything straight is a must also.

Rex

Your really not doing any pushing, mainly just guiding, with the engine case warm and the bearings cold, they pretty much drop right in. If you are in doubt by doing the bearings try it on an old engine for practice. Or borrow an engine from one of your buddies and do with his engine, lol, he will need to be wearing a Depends, after you tell him what you did.

I just ordered my second Go 5pt! I had my truggy stolen, so I'm just now getting most of the things together to race again. I kept bouncing back and forth between .21 5pt and .25, but knowing how fast the .21 5pt turbo is, I couldn't see going to something way above my driving ability. Once it was broken in, the 5pt got really squirly on me and I started to learn the meaning of throttle control. I never needed to be easy coming out of turns with the stock motor, but this one can spin you around quick. I'm going to run the exact same setup as before, X1CRT with Go5pt, Dynamite 086 pipe, M2C 4-shoe clutch, M2C regular-medium shoes, and .95 springs. It was just getting sick-fast when I got jacked, so I'm ready to get back into it big-time!

The Go .25 is a beast in truggy. PERIOD. I just can't see running anything else.

Pipes:
I ran the GO 2047 on both my 3 port and my .25 this past weekend. i had crazy power and very smooth engines. I was also running the AE clutch with impulse rc shoes.

The GO 2047 pipe is awesome, but I feel like i was getting better milage on my 3 port with the OS 2050, but due to rain on the day of practice i couldnt test them back to back. I hope to be able to do that this weekend. I got about 7:30-8 with the 2047 on my 3 port, I know i got close to 9 with the 2050 but that was a different track, different weather, city, etc.

The GO 2047 + .25 just sounds MEAN!! Many people telling me how crazy it was.

i am getting a go 5 port turbo soon and was just wondering what go pipe you would use to get the best fuel mileage, it will be going in my mugen mbx5t, i will also be running a 7mm restrictor

thanx for any input

scott

Hey bud, the 086 is great on those, this is a list of other good pipes with good power and runtime

086
2047
2050
2060
MSR 1005
JP 3
JP 4

thanx alot for the info

scott