oh ok, thanks, I know I have a 6.5mm restrictor but it's from Sportwerks, any chance that will fit? anyone?

any restrictor made for a 9mm carb should work so long as it has good oring on it.

Anyone have and answer for my question?

I've been fighting with a brand new 5p trying to get it started. The pistol/cylinder fit is extremely tight at the top end.

I've searched through the thread, and it seems that heating the engine up with a heat gun will loosen the engine up enough to get it started?

Is this right?

what all plugs can be ran in the standard plug Go Techs. can you run OD99 or MC59 or do they run OS short style plugs

I did too when I first tried to get this beast started, if you dont have a heat gun set a heat lamp and/or a hair dryer aimed towards just right below the cooling head and leave them there for 15-20 mins and then you can start it easy... Also if its really cold then wrap the head it aluminum foil and the heat will soak in better.

HEAD SHIMS, the GO engines are set out of the box to run 30%, the extra shim id for breakin and it does help a little, the newest 5 ports do come with 1 alum, and 2 gold shims, this is what you would normally run with 30%, i to have ran the extra shim just to gain a little top, but this was added after i reshimmed the squish to 22 thous. My modded 3 port is also at 22, with timming being where it is i use 1 thin shim

To breakin the 5 ports, heat it to atleast 240, and 220 after that for the rest of the breakin, and do use foil on the head, it helps the heat from leaving the head area, and when you restart, wait till it gets to about 115 degrees then fire up after heating

Carby inserts, i use the 8 mm in the 3 port, and get around 10.15 runtime at 210 degrees with Tilted race fuel and OS P6 turbo

When you switch from standard to turbo leave the same shiming, if you need to tame it down some add 1 thin shim, and your good.

zJatoRad - I run a 5 Port Turbo with Dynamite 086 pipe in my GS Storm CL-1 Buggy, and use a 7mm restrictor to tame the 5 Ports mean bottom end a little on our semi loose track. Engine still has plenty of low down power for a buggy and doesn't seem to loose any top end with the 086 pipe. Just makes it more civilised and smoother when you gun it out of the corners Plus you get added economy as well.
I run an identical motor in my Truggy, but leave the standard 8mm restrictor in and use a low /mid pipe for maximum torque in the heavier car. Horses for courses I guess
P.S. You can get a colour coded set of restrictors (what I'm using) from Mark at Massive Mods in Australia using his on-line store. Check them out at - http://www.massivemods.com.au/produc...products_id=50

Ok, this is my first GO and I want it to be perfect during break in. .25 6port. When adding the shim that comes with it, do I add it on top of the shims already in place? I've never re-shimmed an engine. Also when breaking it in, should I use the "heat cycling method"? Get it up to temp then give it full throttle while richning? Any advice is appreciated. Oh, and best plugs for the .25

Do not do full throtle breakin, and add the shim so it's the one sitting on top of the sleeve, then pull it out after 3/4 gallon or so.

Use foil on the head to help the heat penatrate the entir motor, get to about 240 on the first tank, this will make the first start up of gthe .25 easy, and get to 220 for tanks after that.

idle 5 to 6 tanks on the box and then put it on the ground and start giving throttle in puts from idle to 1/2 throttle and let off, don't keep constant rpm for long. do about 4 tanks like this, keep the foil on the head during this process, the motor may reach a high temp like 250 260, thats ok the needle setting are still fat, the idea is to keep the metal pinch reduced during this point.

After 4 tanks, go another 3 to 4 tanks from idle to full, and again don't hold high rpm for long

During this you will want the LSN set 1 fill turn in from flush, and the HSN Flush, set the LSN so you have a good idle but close to loading up if it sits to long, and lean the top 1 hour, at the end of all the tanks you are ready for race tune.

Set the hsn so you can hit about 235 240, once your there, fatten the top back 2 hours and lean the bottom end needle so you have a good hit from bottom and good transistion to top with good smoke, once you have a good feel from bottom to top and a good race temp of 230 to 250 set the idle so it will sit with out loading up, and you should be able to stab it with a very slight fatness and it take off like crazy. Good luck

Thank you so much for the advice. Can't wait to run this badboy.

I just picked up a new 3 Port sport and I have a question about the crankshaft. On the assembled engine, there is a little over 1mm of freeplay on the crank. When I pull on the crank (parallel with the crank), it moves in and out.

Is this normal?

yes that is normal, when you put the flywheel collet on just pull the crank out tight and the collet will be against the bearing, then there will be no movement when the flywheel nut is applied. Hope that helped

Well, finally finished just 1 1/2 weeks before the southamerican championship so im praying to get a decent result lol !! ...

- CEN Matrix FRE
- Go Tech 7 Ports engines
- Go Tech FEMCA 0801 pipe
- VP PRO Tyres
- Hitec 985 on steering and 645 on gas/break (still waiting for my ACE's)
- Protek Lipo 2.000mah + Protek 6.2v regulator
- M2C Racing 4 Shoe Setup
- Spektrum PRO

Wish me luck guys !!



























































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Why does amain not sell the 3r?