thanks for the info revo_race

i've learned something very valueable about the go techs(don't run sts cranks in them) i was running at revalations thurs. and the crank split in half inside the case...i am currently trying to take it so i can take pics...and before you go wondering why it's because my go tech crank has a screw broke off in it...it sucks to cause the go tech is a monster...some of you may call it stupid and i would agree but it fit and seemed to work well but in the end couldn't hold up

however i love go tech and will buy another and am gonna try that 3 port rspec in my hyper 8 buggy(was gonna do electric but i'll just run it nitro since i wanna race buggy as well

Ok, i need some expert advice on my Go .21 5p

I got it last spring, and ran it the whole summer and didnt have any problems, it ran good.

So, now i got new bearings for it, a turbo head button, OS P3 plugs and Sidewinder 20% fuel, i just had it outside on the street to try out my new truggy and i couldent get it to idle down as it should, after each wot run the engine would rev really high for a while, and slowly settle down to a normal idle, temps where pretty low, around 150F, so i tried to lean the hsn and the idle got even higher but temps didnt really go up, the highest temp i got was 175F.

So, what do i do ? what are the " stock " settings on the carb so that i can " start over "

Sounds like it could be your low speed needle. Pinch the fuel line after you have got the motor up to temp and at idle. make sure your on the ground but not able to run away. The idle should only go up for a short rev then the motor should die. If it revs too much let off and lean the bottom end. If it just dies fast (poof) then you should richen the low speed. My guess would be it is too rich on the low speed. This would cause the low temp and the extra burn of fuel at idle. (I usually do the opposite to the high speed needle to help compensate for the low speed) Then run it up and back and check the top end. Most people that race like the low speed to be just on the lean side and the top on the rich. this will give you the crisp feel on the bottom and a long linear accelleration to the top end. This is my .02 cents of course.

sounds like a air leak some where on your carb...i would do a carb pressure test...

Also, you were running it during the summer, the air mau be alot cleaner now= leaner running, the cooler air will cause the motor to go lean sometimes, the factory settings are=HSN 1 turn in from flush, LSN 1 turn in from flush, also, run 30% the motor is shimed for it, unless you changed it.

Finally got my 5 port woot along with some other stuff I ordered. This baby is going to go into the new xray 808 soon as it comes out.

I cant see how it could be too lean ? the max temp i managed to get was 175F as soon as i tried to richen the hsn, it would not run good at all, it got way too rich. And about the shiming, i was told when i got it it was shimmed for 20% it has two shims, but i guess the newer engines comes with 3 ??

And i did seal the carb at the " famous " spot, just where the aluminum part where the hsn is meets the plastic part of the carb ( dont know any other way to explain it )

your LSN could be set too lean.

I have a go 5 port turbo and I am putting it on Losi 8t.
My question is on the clutch setup. I used the collet that
came with the go and the clutch bell will not spin after
I tighten the screw all the way down. I have shimmed multiple different
ways and still no movement. Should I use Losi collet or am
I doing something wrong.

How's your gear alignment? If it's good and straight(not offset) then you may be useing too big of a shim on the bolt....if the shim is too wide it will bind the bearing when you tighten it. The correct shim should fit the bolt, but only be as wide as the center part of the bearing...then it shouldn't bind the bearing when you tighten it.

Any of that make any sense?

Yesterday I finished the brake in of my 7 port turbo, I like it even more than my former one

A friend of mine bought the same engine at the same time and did the run-in correctly, but after half a gallon a "G" Pin Snap Ring fell off and scratched completely the piston+sleeve

How can this happen?? production failure?

I placed (4) shims behind rear clutch bell bearing and
used the losi stepped washer on the front without
any shims to see if this helped and still have same results.
I made sure everything was aligned properly and the best
I could get was a small amount of movent, but it felt gritty.

Use the Losi collet with the Losi clutch.


Colin

Thank you for the help.

I added losi collet 2 shims front and back and everything is good.
Now if it would go above 13 deg. temperature outside all would be good.