Go-Tech Engines Thread
#571
Tom you should have a idle off spring on your throttle linkage, you should tighten the tension on that spring. You will also want to check the collet on the back side of the linkage, at Idle you should have a little gap between the servo arm and the collet, that will allow it to return to idle much easier.
#572
Tech Addict
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 571
For those of you that are wondering...I just finished breaking in my .28 today and so far with 20% fuel I'm experiencing GOBS of torque. It's awesome. It's pretty rich right now, too. I'm only using the 20% sport blend for the break-in procedure and then will be changing to Byrons race 30% tomorrow. I'll be out at the track tomorrow playing with the tune some more and will definitely let everyone know how it goes. I can't wait to see how badly I'm going to need traction...anyway, for now it feels great and seems to have plenty of power, especially torque...revs pretty good too though. Unfortunately I don't have any other engines to compare this one to for those of you that may be curious since this is my first truggy and first engine for it...but I can tell you how well I hang with the rest of the truggy crowd at the local track once I get some more track time in over the next few weeks.
#575
My 5 port has starte buring plugs a again for no apparent reason.First I thought is was because I was running lean.....I went back to factory settings and retuned...I have good smoke but,good power,bot hot around 220 and am starting to burn plugs again....I`m running OS# 8.Is there another OS plug you guys suggest to try.......
#576
My 5 port has starte buring plugs a again for no apparent reason.First I thought is was because I was running lean.....I went back to factory settings and retuned...I have good smoke but,good power,bot hot around 220 and am starting to burn plugs again....I`m running OS# 8.Is there another OS plug you guys suggest to try.......
Last edited by Jason Halvorson; 11-25-2007 at 06:18 PM.
#577
Steebo, the std and turbo plugs are different in the shape or unfinished there for, the std plug allows the the entire bottom of the plug to be exposed in the cylinder, a turbo allows this as well but in a much smoother more round finish, there is almost no interfierence when the plug is in the button.
3 port=Great all round motor, good bottom end power, great top with turbo head. i see this as more a budget motor, but is still competitive and able to win races just like the 5 and 7 just a little less overall power, but still strong for sure.
5 port= My fav, this is a powerhouse motor, more than enough bottom for buggy or truggy, and very good topend, it will run with any big $$ motor out there. They have awesome runtime are very reliable, and most pipes work great with them, i like the 2060 on mine and the 1005, the 2050 is ideal for small indoor tracks if you have alot of grip, no grip the 2060 is great.
7 port=very strong as well, just a bit less bottom than the 5. This motor has 2 more exaust ports and the main exaust port flow a little better, giving this motor endless topend, but is still very capable of powering a truggy with out breaking a swet, it is more smooth on bottom but can make killer bottom when clutched and piped correctly.
you can't go wrong with either one of these motors, the 5 and 7 are more pure competition bread, but the 3 port will suprise ya. The GO motor is changing the way people look at what you are getting for your money.
Hope this info was helpfull.
3 port=Great all round motor, good bottom end power, great top with turbo head. i see this as more a budget motor, but is still competitive and able to win races just like the 5 and 7 just a little less overall power, but still strong for sure.
5 port= My fav, this is a powerhouse motor, more than enough bottom for buggy or truggy, and very good topend, it will run with any big $$ motor out there. They have awesome runtime are very reliable, and most pipes work great with them, i like the 2060 on mine and the 1005, the 2050 is ideal for small indoor tracks if you have alot of grip, no grip the 2060 is great.
7 port=very strong as well, just a bit less bottom than the 5. This motor has 2 more exaust ports and the main exaust port flow a little better, giving this motor endless topend, but is still very capable of powering a truggy with out breaking a swet, it is more smooth on bottom but can make killer bottom when clutched and piped correctly.
you can't go wrong with either one of these motors, the 5 and 7 are more pure competition bread, but the 3 port will suprise ya. The GO motor is changing the way people look at what you are getting for your money.
Hope this info was helpfull.
#578
My 5 port has starte buring plugs a again for no apparent reason.First I thought is was because I was running lean.....I went back to factory settings and retuned...I have good smoke but,good power,bot hot around 220 and am starting to burn plugs again....I`m running OS# 8.Is there another OS plug you guys suggest to try.......
Tom
#579
Rossoh10
I have ran OS only in all my GO motors, the 8 has always been strong for me, are you still breaking it in, or past that already. be sure you have the 2 shims not 3 if you past breakin. Also, if you are making good power and you see rich needle setting and then it comes in hot check for any air leaks, and be sure you go a little at a time on the needle movments, these motors will run at almost any temp but you want to get the most life they are capable of as well, are you running std or turbo head, if you have standered be sure there is no fuel at the plug commin out, or if you see dust collecting at the plug it can be pulling air in from there, but check the carb and be sure it is air tight, a rich needle setting and hot temps indicate a air leak most times, where are you from, the cooler plug may help if your air is cleaner.
I have ran OS only in all my GO motors, the 8 has always been strong for me, are you still breaking it in, or past that already. be sure you have the 2 shims not 3 if you past breakin. Also, if you are making good power and you see rich needle setting and then it comes in hot check for any air leaks, and be sure you go a little at a time on the needle movments, these motors will run at almost any temp but you want to get the most life they are capable of as well, are you running std or turbo head, if you have standered be sure there is no fuel at the plug commin out, or if you see dust collecting at the plug it can be pulling air in from there, but check the carb and be sure it is air tight, a rich needle setting and hot temps indicate a air leak most times, where are you from, the cooler plug may help if your air is cleaner.
#580
I live in So cal and I am running a standard plug..I would say I have about 2 gallons on the engine.I don`t know how many shims it has because I haven`t counted them yet.When I bought the engine I know it didn`t come with any extras
#581
OK, your shimming should be correct then, do you see anything around the button, like maybe fuel may be pushing through the threads and out the motor, also pull the carb and preasure test it, this only takes a min, check it by placing it under water, use a hair dryer to heat it some and submerge it in water and blow into the fuel line keep both the intake and exit of the carb covered when you do this, if the carb has a leak it will push bubbles out the alum HSN housing where it meets the composite body, or the rubber boot may have a tear or small pin hole in it, and don't be afraid to run the motor hotter than 220, once the motor loosens up the temps should have droped alot, so it can still be to rich with the settings your at know, and this can be a reason as well, but check the carb, and seal the backplate as well, you ewant to make the entire motor airtight. LMK what happens.
#583
yes there is a noticeable difference between the two...the turbo plug will have more power through the entire rpm band, and will also give better run times by 30 to 45 seconds a tank...
#585



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