This is very interesting. By "fit into a P5" do you also mean they will work well in a P5? This is definitely something to consider if it actually works.

On the Go Tech subject, has anyone else noticed a distinct similarity between the head on the 5-port and the head on a Hyper 8-port Race engine?

As i am led to believe the Go 7 port is a copy of the RB WS7, my friend has just ordered a GO so i will check it out next week. If so does this mean GO parts will fit the RB

Any one else know if this is true?

Lunie

Rstnboy, I owned a hyper 8 and the cuts are similiar on the head between the 2 engines but the go's use a different material and the actual finish of the Go head is much different.

Lois8lunie The Go 7 is not a copy of the RB ws7, the Go 7port is not actually a 7port if you consider intake ports the only porting you count, the Go 7port has 5 intake ports identical to the Go 5port, but the 7port features a tri exhaust port, which take the power band of the 5port and just knocks it up into a higher rpm range.

Ok thanks, does that mean that it has wing ports for the exhaust? Anyone got any pictures of the 5 and 7 port liners

Does the 5 port have 4 inlet and 1 exhaust if that is the case?

Lunie

funny thing to me is the 5 port and 7 port Go 21 both have only 5 intake ports......Nice engines by the way, i mean no disrespect to go... I was just suprised ot see the 7 port was really just a 5 port...

Yes you could call them wing ports, both engines have 5 intake ports + 2 bypass ports.

No , if they were going to copy an engine i think they would pick a better one than the WS7

What are the factory settings for the 5 port? Search feature offered no results

ok let me add a grain of salt to this oprah winfrey love fest show we have here.

sure the go tech is great, but there are a few issues. let me outline them.

1) the carby. the seal between the metal section and the plastic sections of the carby allows air to enter, ruining the tune. How do i know this? most owners of go's in australia have fixed the problem by placing jb weld around this joint

2)the quality is very good yes, and machining is great, but certain cosmetic finish issues still remain. sure not a big woop, but it helps sell an engine (minor point, granted)

3)there is a revised low end needle from what i have been told. hence original carby low end needle is not really designed well (course thread i am imagining, and hence hard to get fine tune) i've experienced this whilst trying to tune my low end.at one fraction its rich, and another it's lean.

4) engine does not come with enough headshims as standard. sure not a massive point, but you want to buy it off the shelf ready, and not be required to read up on a forum to learn what is needed

other than these things the engine is fine. Problem is, from my experience the carby seal issue is hampering my tuning big time! i mean, i can't get it to idle for more than 10 seconds without it bogging down insanely and dieing...im not a newb at tuning either, and i am using good fuel.

i'm actually contemplating poping in my OS vspec carby...yet this sort of defeats the purpose of why i bought the engine. i wanted a cheap, well built replacement to the OS, yet if i need to chop and change parts...well,....what's the point really. I want two good engines not one good one, and another good one with a missing carby

sorry MM but i just don't see the point in a "love fest" forum man, there are issues, yet the engine is great quality, but before it can hammer the competition even before it hits the track these issues need to be resolved. JUST FIX THE BLOODY CARBY GO TECH!!

TomB, you must be talking about the original carb which was replaced awhile ago. The new carb is fine.

Satoch the HSN should be 1 turn below flush, and the LSN should be just slightly out from flush.

TomB you are right the carb is the weak link to the engine, I can tell you that the factory is constantly trying to improve it though and with all things please remember this is a new company, and while not perfect they offer one of the best products on the market.

1) I pressure test every carb that sells thru approved dealers in the U.S. and I can tell you that the latest batches of carbs where not leaking. This is by no means a long term test and a approval that this problem is fixed, but from that gate the engines have been redesigned to seal better at the joint. I will continue to JB weld the seams on my engines just because its easy and a permanent fix, any plastic alumn. carb could leak just as the Go's and I have heard of people using our fix on different carb brands.

2) As far as cosmetic appearance that is a personal preference and I can't say either way, all I can say is I personally prefer function over form and the big cooling head on the Go is one of the best stock cooling heads on the market.

3) The change to the LSN was the taper of the needle, the factory changed the Taper to try and improve bottom end performance. I agree the needles on the Go engines are sensitive and you usually end up adjusting the LSN a blade when its close. This is a matter of acclimation as every carb on the market tunes differently.

4) We have been running the stock head shims in the U.S. for a year, I have never added a head shim to a Go engine. and I usually pull the thin shim out around the 6 gallon mark.

I wouldn't give up on the Go carb yet, Just check yours and check your front bearing, make sure that the engine is sealed up and try a hotter plug.

which go tech is recommend for buggy the 5 port or 7 port? also where can I buy them at besides carolinas rc?

www.rccompound.com has the 5 port of $179 thats a great price for a great motor....also amain is selling gotech engines again....

For my style of driving and the type of tracks I usually run on I go for the 5 port for it's better bottom. The 7 port has it's powerband more on the higher side, so for most tracks with short run ups to jumps, you won't be hitting the peak of the powerband often. On euro style tracks that seem to be more long-flowing, the 7 port would have an advantage. 5 port is more forgiving too as you'll be able to hit the peak sooner. Also, the weight and gearing of your buggy is also important. For example, Losi 8's weigh quite a bit less than my Mugen MBX5R and they seem to run better with a softer bottom motor with stronger top as high-torque motors tend to upset their lighter chassis.

lol this is all old news bro ... Id suggest before you hammer something or someone you check the facts , im not even going to offer you a spatula ...