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Old 07-02-2007, 07:40 AM
  #4321  
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Originally Posted by air8
Also, if anyone is having probs with the stone filter falling off the metal nipple in the fuel tank, solder it. Someone on here suggested that and it worked great. I used to try to fix this every other weekend but I have 3 gals. on since soldering and all is well.

that happened to my friend yesterday and was making his motor run like crap, it looked as though the filter was falling apart!
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Old 07-02-2007, 08:54 AM
  #4322  
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Originally Posted by trebor
Sickboy- Thanks, thats exactly what Im looking for! They are nice too! I did notice Fioroni has some adjustable front ones too but for the fr & rear its $90. Way too much $$ for me.

Satoch-Its not the people behind me that are causing it its from the hard hits to the "FRONT" end. Problem solved, so I dont have to worry about anyboy passing. NO-NO! lol.
The plastic insert on the Fioroni piece costs more than the King Headz piece. Fioroni sure is $proud$ of thier stuff.
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Old 07-02-2007, 10:44 AM
  #4323  
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Originally Posted by sickboy
The plastic insert on the Fioroni piece costs more than the King Headz piece. Fioroni sure is $proud$ of thier stuff.
Yes, the Fioroni pieces are definitely sweet but me poor right now so Im gonna have to wait. So you have the ones for the front, right? How does that work? adjustable? must be a good option to have to work with.
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Old 07-02-2007, 02:14 PM
  #4324  
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Man i just saw the goodies from Fioroni on Amain..There stuff look's Hot!! Im sure the 8 with all that stuff on would look awsome. But with the price of all that stuff combined it's like a new motor. And like you guy's i rather have go, than show.. Unless there's a sale..hehehe....
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Old 07-02-2007, 02:35 PM
  #4325  
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Also running the M2C plates on both ends of the car. What does adding the weights to the rear do for the car? I have them, but haven't tried them yet.
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Old 07-02-2007, 02:47 PM
  #4326  
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Originally Posted by Stealth_RT
Also running the M2C plates on both ends of the car. What does adding the weights to the rear do for the car? I have them, but haven't tried them yet.
It should give you more forward traction.

EA
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Old 07-02-2007, 06:37 PM
  #4327  
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Straightline, that'd be great. But, would it give you more on-power push coming out of a turn? That wouldn't be so good, need more on-power steering as it is.
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Old 07-02-2007, 07:13 PM
  #4328  
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
It should give you more forward traction.

EA
I personally love the M2C weights. It seems that the buggy is more planted.
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Old 07-03-2007, 02:42 AM
  #4329  
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The rear end doesn't wash out during cornering any more. It's much stablier during breaking and cornering. I put the whole 1oz on it and went from there. If the track's got good bite and your rear end is getting too much bite you can remove a 1/4oz of weight at a time to keep the front end from pushing to a minimum.
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Old 07-03-2007, 11:01 AM
  #4330  
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This may sound stupid to all of you that got the experience building the 8ight.

I can't get the steering servo in place, it is an ACE 1015, way to tight and the servo wire gets in the way if I try to push it in place.

What is the trick?

Thanks
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Old 07-03-2007, 11:24 AM
  #4331  
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team dremel!!!! FTW

you need to dremel a couple mm's on both sides of the radio tray for the servo to fit in.
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Old 07-03-2007, 05:52 PM
  #4332  
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Originally Posted by micrors4guy
team dremel!!!! FTW

you need to dremel a couple mm's on both sides of the radio tray for the servo to fit in.
Yep, that's probably the best way. I actually got mine to fit without the dremel, but the heat sink fins took some plastic with them. So I basically crammed it in there. My 8 needed this servo from the beginning. It turns so well, that I would get in trouble with slower servos. With the speed of this one I could correct in the middle of a turn and end up looking like I was driving good.
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Old 07-03-2007, 06:17 PM
  #4333  
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Guys, I've stripped both of my clutch pins that came with my RTR when I was trying to replace the RTR aluminum clutch. Do you guys have any ideas on how to remove the pins? The guy who made the rtr kit must screw the pins ridiculously tight and added too much loctite PLEASE HELP!

THanks
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Old 07-03-2007, 06:17 PM
  #4334  
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my stock losi clutch has had it. the shoes are really thin. im going to buy some king headz or m2c aluminum. do you guys have any good suggestions with a good set up? i run on an outdoor track with a bunch of tight corners and one long straight.

also im going to get a new rb c6bbt7. amianhobbies has 2 different moded versions, one by hotmods and one by ceopower mod. anyone know which one i should choose? im leaning towards the hot mod cause i have seen a hot mod novarossi p5 running really strong. gemmie your opinions.
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Old 07-03-2007, 06:58 PM
  #4335  
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Originally Posted by kmaheartless
Guys, I've stripped both of my clutch pins that came with my RTR when I was trying to replace the RTR aluminum clutch. Do you guys have any ideas on how to remove the pins? The guy who made the rtr kit must screw the pins ridiculously tight and added too much loctite PLEASE HELP!

THanks
once again team dremel FTW lol.
take a cut off wheel and dremel a slot in the head of the clutch pins, then heat up the pins with a lighter to break down the locktite on them a little and it will com off with a flat head screw driver.

I have been running m2c soft light shoes with green and gold springs on a vspec. getting arround 2 gallons of life out of then with good smooth feel.
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