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Old 05-22-2007 | 07:33 AM
  #811  
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Originally Posted by Nitro$junkie
cheers mate
Just a small but important detail. If you start to use Sirio plugs, stick to them or when you want to change plug brands you will need to change too the head button to a brand new one just to assure yourself a nice sealing of the combustion chamber.
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Old 05-22-2007 | 04:56 PM
  #812  
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What Efra # pipe is reccomended for the R01. thanks
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Old 05-22-2007 | 05:06 PM
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EFRA 2053
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Old 05-22-2007 | 08:23 PM
  #814  
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Thank you very much!
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Old 05-23-2007 | 12:33 AM
  #815  
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would somebody have pictures of the interior of the MR21 r01a?
I don't find big pictures of the crankshaft , the sleeve
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Old 05-23-2007 | 08:12 PM
  #816  
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so no info on a normal in-car break in?
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Old 05-23-2007 | 10:50 PM
  #817  
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Originally Posted by youb
would somebody have pictures of the interior of the MR21 r01a?
I don't find big pictures of the crankshaft , the sleeve
I'm pending of comparing the original R01 with a new unit R01a but the changes up to what I've seen are subtle. No radical changes there.
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Old 05-23-2007 | 10:51 PM
  #818  
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Originally Posted by gentleman81
so no info on a normal in-car break in?
There are some posts on the previous pages describing the break-in made by several people (including me). Some did the four stroking method some used the break-in bench, what we found is those engines run apparently hotter than Nova and others due their different cooling head and the combustion chamber height needs to be raised before using it.

Check it with the solder wire method (measure the crushed part of the solder wire and tell us what height you have and which fuel you plan to use with it before grenading it).
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Old 05-24-2007 | 12:43 AM
  #819  
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Originally Posted by gentleman81
so no info on a normal in-car break in?
http://www.rcjracing.com/e107_plugin...php?content.45
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Old 05-29-2007 | 01:21 PM
  #820  
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First let me say i'm not a newb. I've checked the obvious things and it's not them.

The problem I had this weekend with my Ninja 12 is that the carb. popped out. It didn't twist or run away (thank God) it will just pop out and cut off. I checked my servo end-point when I installed the engine, but the first time this happened, I turned it down a couple more clicks just to make sure. But, it happened again. After the 2nd time, I checked the pinch bolt and it wasn't loose. It was still tight but the carb was out. So, I put loc-tite on the pinch bolt, tightened it down hard and went back out. In 2 min it popped out again. The carb is no-where close to touching the break disc so it's not that either. And, it slides smoothly with no binding at all.

I'm pretty much out of ideas on this one. The only thing I can figure (and I know this sounds crazy) is that i'm pushing down too hard on the carb when installing it and the crank is pushing it out. I'm going to check the bottom of the carb to see if there are any marks on it.

Other than that, i'm out of ideas. I'm considering putting "safety wire" on the carb to keep it in. I figure either that will hold it in and that will be the end of it, or something else will happen and i'll see where the problem really is.

Any other suggestions?
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Old 05-29-2007 | 01:29 PM
  #821  
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Well, the only thing I can come up with is the following... The pinch-bolt is there to hold the carb on. If the carb's coming off it's not doing it's job. Simple math really. Why? Can't say but to quote Conan Doyle, who puts it in the mouth of Sherlock Holmes: “When you eliminate the impossible, whatever is left, however improbable, must be the truth.”
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Old 05-29-2007 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by JetMD
First let me say i'm not a newb. I've checked the obvious things and it's not them.

The problem I had this weekend with my Ninja 12 is that the carb. popped out. It didn't twist or run away (thank God) it will just pop out and cut off. I checked my servo end-point when I installed the engine, but the first time this happened, I turned it down a couple more clicks just to make sure. But, it happened again. After the 2nd time, I checked the pinch bolt and it wasn't loose. It was still tight but the carb was out. So, I put loc-tite on the pinch bolt, tightened it down hard and went back out. In 2 min it popped out again. The carb is no-where close to touching the break disc so it's not that either. And, it slides smoothly with no binding at all.

I'm pretty much out of ideas on this one. The only thing I can figure (and I know this sounds crazy) is that i'm pushing down too hard on the carb when installing it and the crank is pushing it out. I'm going to check the bottom of the carb to see if there are any marks on it.

Other than that, i'm out of ideas. I'm considering putting "safety wire" on the carb to keep it in. I figure either that will hold it in and that will be the end of it, or something else will happen and i'll see where the problem really is.

Any other suggestions?
Terrances 8th scale did that last year, ask him about it.
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Old 05-29-2007 | 03:12 PM
  #823  
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I have seen this happen to a few different motors over the years, usually it is a bad pinch bolt, what happens is, the 2 halves of the pinch bolt bottom out on each other before actually tightening up on the carb. It might even feel fairly tight when sitting there, but when everything heats up, it will expand and come loose. You could try a different pinch bolt, or just dremel a little off the face of the two halves of the pinch bolt, the parts that meet up, so it can "pinch" more before bottoming out. The other thing to check would be that the phenolic ring around the carb, if it has one, is not cracked, or tapered or something like that. If it is a one piece type pinch bolt, the end of it could be bottoming out on the nut before it pinches well. I think the only way you could fix that would be a new pinch bolt, or a washer between the nut and motor case, the washer would need a big enough I.D. to go over the pinch bolt itself. GOOD LUCK!
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Old 05-29-2007 | 03:58 PM
  #824  
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Originally Posted by Ffejdat
I have seen this happen to a few different motors over the years, usually it is a bad pinch bolt, what happens is, the 2 halves of the pinch bolt bottom out on each other before actually tightening up on the carb. It might even feel fairly tight when sitting there, but when everything heats up, it will expand and come loose. You could try a different pinch bolt, or just dremel a little off the face of the two halves of the pinch bolt, the parts that meet up, so it can "pinch" more before bottoming out. The other thing to check would be that the phenolic ring around the carb, if it has one, is not cracked, or tapered or something like that. If it is a one piece type pinch bolt, the end of it could be bottoming out on the nut before it pinches well. I think the only way you could fix that would be a new pinch bolt, or a washer between the nut and motor case, the washer would need a big enough I.D. to go over the pinch bolt itself. GOOD LUCK!
Thanks for the advice on the pinch bolt. I think I might try to cut a little off the ends to try to get a little more pinch out of it. The insulator looks fine too so it's not that. Since it is a 2 piece pinch bolt, cutting a little off each side will probably help. That would explain why it felt tight but actually wasn't fully pinching the carb. This is good advice. Thank you.

I will check with Terrance too Craig, thanks.
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Old 05-29-2007 | 07:54 PM
  #825  
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Hi

I have now put about a gallon through my R01A.
Should I change the rod ?
Have any R021A rods failed?

Thanks
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