LRP nitro motors
#196
Originally Posted by CraigM
Is the entire Z12R range picco or just the team ones? I have a Z12R Race that runs very well against Nova's and TZ's at my club - I TQ'd for the main at the last meet - but if it's not going to last when tuned to this level I better pull it back a bit.
I run my LRP SPEC 3 for 8 race last year and change 3 conrod,my race result was good.Run LRP engines for 2 year start without any spec yet,my opinion the engine is fast and can compete with other brand of engine.Happy racing with LRP PRODUCTS.
#197
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 373
Originally Posted by afiq
I run my LRP SPEC 3 for 8 race last year and change 3 conrod,my race result was good.Run LRP engines for 2 year start without any spec yet,my opinion the engine is fast and can compete with other brand of engine.Happy racing with LRP PRODUCTS. 

#198
Originally Posted by jelayne
How come you changed the rod so often? I recently purchased a Spec3 and would like to know if I need to stock up on rods 

I heard the LRP's like a new rod every 5 litres of fuel
#199
Just had my Spec III broken in with the help from Afiq "Thanks again", love the speed proven better over Spec II. I think basically conrod is the cheapest replacement item in the whole engine and it could also be the most important part before jeopardizing other critical parts like piston, sleeve, bearing and crank. Probably LRP representative can suggest for how long of normal driving should the conrod be replaced.
Happy racing,
PMW
Happy racing,
PMW
#201
Replacing rods every 5 litres sounds about right, maybe change the first one after 3 litres only because of the break-in process which is hard on the conrod.
Better replace the rod too often, because if it let's go it's definitely a lot more expensive...
Better replace the rod too often, because if it let's go it's definitely a lot more expensive...
#202
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 373
Originally Posted by infinique
Just had my Spec III broken in with the help from Afiq "Thanks again", love the speed proven better over Spec II. I think basically conrod is the cheapest replacement item in the whole engine and it could also be the most important part before jeopardizing other critical parts like piston, sleeve, bearing and crank. Probably LRP representative can suggest for how long of normal driving should the conrod be replaced.
Happy racing,
PMW
Happy racing,
PMW
#204
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 15
Hi!
I am currently running a Z.12R Team Spec.2. I opened my engine recently and found that there is a tiny play between the conrod and the crank pin. Should I change to the Spec.3 conrod? Any advice/recommendation would be appreciated.
Cheers.
I am currently running a Z.12R Team Spec.2. I opened my engine recently and found that there is a tiny play between the conrod and the crank pin. Should I change to the Spec.3 conrod? Any advice/recommendation would be appreciated.
Cheers.
#205
Originally Posted by @sd
Hi!
I am currently running a Z.12R Team Spec.2. I opened my engine recently and found that there is a tiny play between the conrod and the crank pin. Should I change to the Spec.3 conrod? Any advice/recommendation would be appreciated.
Cheers.
I am currently running a Z.12R Team Spec.2. I opened my engine recently and found that there is a tiny play between the conrod and the crank pin. Should I change to the Spec.3 conrod? Any advice/recommendation would be appreciated.
Cheers.
Spec 2 and spec 3 using the same conrod,u should change the conrod.U will save up the crank pin.
#206
Originally Posted by jelayne
infinique how is the bottom end of the Spec3 compared to the Spec 2?
#207
Hi guys, managed to spend sometime to compare Spec II and Spec III engine finally, the photos on the left is Spec III while the one on the right is Spec II. As seen new redesigned crankshaft with additional scope plus lightened hollow conrod notch. Also note the different design on the crankcase backplate, bigger bore on top case. Ohter noticeable diferrence would include new heatsink design, new piston sleeve which is higher showed on picture side to side to Spec II. I must say LRP really gave in all effort to squeeze every bit of horsepower out from this engine, hopefully to receive new updates from LPR such as Factory Tuned Version matched with LRP own exhaust piping system. Great job LRP and keep it up all the good work on this impressive engine 

Side to side comparison, Spec III noticeable higher piston sleeve.

Back plate difference, left is Spec III bigger bore than Spec II.

New Crankshaft design, check out the additional scope and hollow conrod notch.



Spec III on MTX4 setup.

Spec II on MTX4 setup.
Cheers,
PMW


Side to side comparison, Spec III noticeable higher piston sleeve.

Back plate difference, left is Spec III bigger bore than Spec II.

New Crankshaft design, check out the additional scope and hollow conrod notch.



Spec III on MTX4 setup.

Spec II on MTX4 setup.
Cheers,
PMW
#208
Originally Posted by infinique
Hi guys, managed to spend sometime to compare Spec II and Spec III engine finally, the photos on the left is Spec III while the one on the right is Spec II. As seen new redesigned crankshaft with additional scope plus lightened hollow conrod notch. Also note the different design on the crankcase backplate, bigger bore on top case. Ohter noticeable diferrence would include new heatsink design, new piston sleeve which is higher showed on picture side to side to Spec II. I must say LRP really gave in all effort to squeeze every bit of horsepower out from this engine, hopefully to receive new updates from LPR such as Factory Tuned Version matched with LRP own exhaust piping system. Great job LRP and keep it up all the good work on this impressive engine 

Side to side comparison, Spec III noticeable higher piston sleeve.

Back plate difference, left is Spec III bigger bore than Spec II.

New Crankshaft design, check out the additional scope and hollow conrod notch.



Spec III on MTX4 setup.

Spec II on MTX4 setup.
Cheers,
PMW


Side to side comparison, Spec III noticeable higher piston sleeve.

Back plate difference, left is Spec III bigger bore than Spec II.

New Crankshaft design, check out the additional scope and hollow conrod notch.



Spec III on MTX4 setup.

Spec II on MTX4 setup.
Cheers,
PMW
Thanks a lot for the picture bro!On the LRP pipe system they still working out on it,but sound and performance impresssive.For LRP factory tune version,I don't have idea on this.HAPPY USING LRP PRODUCTS
#209
Hi Guys
I have just swapped over from Sirio STI to the LRP spec 3 -
Ran my first meeting with it last weekend and so far so good, the Sirio was a screamer but the LRP seems to scream just as loud ! ( I am using the 2611 Sirio pipe BTW)
I had a couple of little problems though, In the final, as the engine got warmer, I started to get a "lean bog" out of the corners, even though I started a bit on the rich side.....anyone else have this ? - I ended up having to pit and richen the top end out a half a turn....maybe because the engine is still a little tight?
A couple of other things...
I had to modify the carb clamp, as it wouldn't tighten up enough , the holes on the side of the block are like 0.5mm too small, I couldn't get the bolts to line up on the one piece engine mount in my RRR.
The main (top end) needle seems very loose?
Which springs is everyone using to hold the exhaust header on?
Does anyone make proper header gaskets that allow the small exhaust port engines like the LRP to use the headers with the bigger holes?
regards
Luis Sola
Australia
I have just swapped over from Sirio STI to the LRP spec 3 -
Ran my first meeting with it last weekend and so far so good, the Sirio was a screamer but the LRP seems to scream just as loud ! ( I am using the 2611 Sirio pipe BTW)
I had a couple of little problems though, In the final, as the engine got warmer, I started to get a "lean bog" out of the corners, even though I started a bit on the rich side.....anyone else have this ? - I ended up having to pit and richen the top end out a half a turn....maybe because the engine is still a little tight?
A couple of other things...
I had to modify the carb clamp, as it wouldn't tighten up enough , the holes on the side of the block are like 0.5mm too small, I couldn't get the bolts to line up on the one piece engine mount in my RRR.
The main (top end) needle seems very loose?
Which springs is everyone using to hold the exhaust header on?
Does anyone make proper header gaskets that allow the small exhaust port engines like the LRP to use the headers with the bigger holes?
regards
Luis Sola
Australia
#210
Ofna gasket #51997 should work for this motor, that is what works on Picco motors for Novarossi size headers.... The motor hole spacing is like a Picco, not Novarossi, closer together, modify the motor or get a new Picco style one piece mount....



