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Old 10-22-2006, 01:35 AM   #166
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which company is SH?
SH, i believe stands for sh!t house
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Old 10-22-2006, 06:38 AM   #167
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Just received my spec 3 engine few days ago. Well, m very disappointed when i opened up the box, the carburator was not installed, there is an area at the body, just under the heatsink, has little bit chipped off, with few wounds. then after we broke in, we found that the carburator cannot be tightend no matter wat, so it just swings left and right. all i can say that there is no quality control with LRP engines, they are just famous for their electronics i believe. this doesnt end yet. we intend to remove the engine so that we can use some silicon to hold the carburator in place. but then we found out that there is this screw just under the carburator screw went missing. i really dun know wats the purpose of that tiny screw at all. Also, the mixture needle has been sealed, so we can't do much tuning (even though we seldom turn this needle).

m really upset with this LRP engine. i believe that there shd be more quality control with its product. it shares a pretty similar price with OS 12TZ, but look at OS engine, they are all nice with perfect finish, as for LRP, it seems that its those that are made in china, even worse than STS. !!!!!!

from a very uncontended LRP customer.
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Old 10-23-2006, 01:20 PM   #168
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Hi uniquexme,

First of all there was 2 insert to put at the neck of the carb.put 2 oring around the insert,u notice 1 of the insert have screw thread.Adjust the slope at the insert before putting the carb.Insert the screw and turn slowly until the both insert match together.
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Old 10-28-2006, 03:09 AM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uniquexme
Just received my spec 3 engine few days ago. Well, m very disappointed when i opened up the box, the carburator was not installed, there is an area at the body, just under the heatsink, has little bit chipped off, with few wounds. then after we broke in, we found that the carburator cannot be tightend no matter wat, so it just swings left and right. all i can say that there is no quality control with LRP engines, they are just famous for their electronics i believe. this doesnt end yet. we intend to remove the engine so that we can use some silicon to hold the carburator in place. but then we found out that there is this screw just under the carburator screw went missing. i really dun know wats the purpose of that tiny screw at all. Also, the mixture needle has been sealed, so we can't do much tuning (even though we seldom turn this needle).

m really upset with this LRP engine. i believe that there shd be more quality control with its product. it shares a pretty similar price with OS 12TZ, but look at OS engine, they are all nice with perfect finish, as for LRP, it seems that its those that are made in china, even worse than STS. !!!!!!

from a very uncontended LRP customer.

the possible answer for the carb not being on is that the position needs to be changed for different car setups

As for the chips etc....Why did you run it? WHy didnt you send it back for an exchange? Every lrp motor i have seen, and trust me im talking 1000's i havent seen the problems you have described...

why not send them an email?
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Old 01-11-2007, 12:59 PM   #170
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Any body has pictures of a dissasembled .12 LRP ZR Team Spec 3 engine??

Just curious to see it's internals to compare with other Picco based engines.

AFM
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Old 01-12-2007, 05:04 AM   #171
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Seems as though someone on this thread is having 'quality' issues like they did with another brand and then hounded the engine developer into supplying lots of free parts. At some point you have to stop and ask if everything you buy is rubbish and you're the unluckiest person in RC or if maybe you need some help to understand these engines better.
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Old 02-22-2007, 12:15 PM   #172
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Angry LRP z.12r issues

The issue i'm having with my new z.12r is its getting more air than it should. When I start it to break it in it revs up to the max and I have to shut it off before it grenades. When I put my finger over the carb hole nothing changes. I pulled the carb and the fit is tight and the black o-ring is intact. I checked the head and its fit is good also. When I contacted AE they said to wiggle the carb back and forth and it will seat itself, did it, no change. I read the post about turning the carb on a lathe and adding teflon to it ....wow.... awesome but over my head.
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Old 02-22-2007, 03:32 PM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chopper 7
The issue i'm having with my new z.12r is its getting more air than it should. When I start it to break it in it revs up to the max and I have to shut it off before it grenades. When I put my finger over the carb hole nothing changes. I pulled the carb and the fit is tight and the black o-ring is intact. I checked the head and its fit is good also. When I contacted AE they said to wiggle the carb back and forth and it will seat itself, did it, no change. I read the post about turning the carb on a lathe and adding teflon to it ....wow.... awesome but over my head.
Air leaking......... The 2 cams that you use to fix the carb at the crankcase in some cases are some tenths too long, and so even if you tight the screw all the way down, still the carb is not really tight and some air leaks from there.
To solve this, you need to take out the 2 cams, grind them a little bit and then the problem is solved.......

Another tip is the o ring inside the crankcase (there is an internal o ring inside the crank where the carb is located). The fit is so tight that in several cases when you install the carb you strip the o ring. Not a big problem, it is easy to solve, either replacing the oring, or using the engine without the inside o ring just with the o ring that is in the base of the carb and no problem at all.......

Then in general, if the engine does not keep itís tune and starts to lean out after a few minutes of racing, the bottom end needle needs to be richened. That happens quite often and it is always the first thing to check when tuning the engine.
You tend to lean out the bottom end during static setup of the carburetor. In most cases, the engine has not warmed up completely (including chassis and all other aluminum parts) thus it is changing its tune during driving.

Forget about the tip of lathing the carb and puting a teflon insert...that was to adapt a Novarossi carb on to these Picco based engines with the old carb...new carbs work perfect and don't need to replace them.

AFM
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Old 03-05-2007, 11:22 AM   #174
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Can someone tell me if any shimming is needed for the new Team Spec 3 engine if I am running 20% Byron or 25% O'Donnell?

Also I have read on some forums certain fuels perform better with some engines, does anyone know if there are performance issues in using Byron or O'Donnell with the new Spec3??
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Old 03-05-2007, 02:17 PM   #175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jelayne
Can someone tell me if any shimming is needed for the new Team Spec 3 engine if I am running 20% Byron or 25% O'Donnell?

Also I have read on some forums certain fuels perform better with some engines, does anyone know if there are performance issues in using Byron or O'Donnell with the new Spec3??
The engine manual explains very clearly what shims to use on different Nitro percentages, regardless of fuel brand.

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Old 03-09-2007, 02:49 AM   #176
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Default Best Exhaust for 0.12 Spec III

Hi there, just wondering which pipe would make a great combo for Spec III, anyone tested Nova 2630 on it?

Regards,
MW
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Old 03-09-2007, 05:14 AM   #177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infinique
Hi there, just wondering which pipe would make a great combo for Spec III, anyone tested Nova 2630 on it?

Regards,
MW
Picco or Mega 2607 with a short conucal header = awesome!
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Old 03-09-2007, 05:40 AM   #178
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Originally Posted by stefan
Picco or Mega 2607 with a short conucal header = awesome!

Yes, its a perfect macth i use on my spec3
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Old 03-09-2007, 05:52 AM   #179
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Hi , AFM

Since i use LRP engines , spec , spec 1 , spec 3

not just my own use engine but the engines of my consumers had problems with dead glowplugs they no last longer , i always use LRP glow plugs and of corse i am using perfect head shims with nitro% , i am sure the engines are tuned very well carburator settings = I had a great support from LRP crew about settings and the time i use gave me experience with settings on Z12Rs but the glowplugs are frequently goes out, Did you noticed or happened with you???????

Didi you use another brand of glowplugs on yours picco engines? i do not like because the conical of the plug but.......


Thanks,

Fabian
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Old 03-09-2007, 07:08 AM   #180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fabian K
Hi , AFM

Since i use LRP engines , spec , spec 1 , spec 3

not just my own use engine but the engines of my consumers had problems with dead glowplugs they no last longer , i always use LRP glow plugs and of corse i am using perfect head shims with nitro% , i am sure the engines are tuned very well carburator settings = I had a great support from LRP crew about settings and the time i use gave me experience with settings on Z12Rs but the glowplugs are frequently goes out, Did you noticed or happened with you???????

Didi you use another brand of glowplugs on yours picco engines? i do not like because the conical of the plug but.......


Thanks,

Fabian
Hi Fabian

Yes I used to have that problem time ago when Picco didn't produce the two type of plugs they do now. Today you can choose on the same thermal range between cold and hot body plugs. The key is when to choose lets say a 7Cold or a 7Hot...it's humidity...if air humidity is below 70% use the cold one and above 70% use the hot one....that way you'll never blow a plug, given as you say all other parameters are OK.

With respect to using other brands, I've had no problems using OS P7 plugs and Orion 7 plugs. They are one type only and auto adjustable. With them you don't need to worry about humidity.

Novarossi plugs don't work because of taper issues.

Hope this helps

AFM
PD. Don't forget to post pictures of your Spec3 interiors.
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