T/E Maxx Thread
#346
Iam getting a E-MAXX soon and was wondering something. On the Traxxas site the chassis has 6 slots for batteries. I want to use 7 cells with the truck but it only has 6 slots. Is this true or did they not update the site? Does the chassis come with 7 slots now?
Thanks
Thanks
#347
the chassis has never had 7 cells. there is somewhere on traxxas's website where it shows you how to put the 7th cell in but basically it sits toward the middle of the truck almost up against the trans case pointing front-to-back in the truck(90 degrees to the other cells....
#348
yes, the XR3 CAn be modified to work...BUT if someone is going to buy a radio anyway...for the about same money you can get a controller that does not have to be modified to do the same work AND void the warranty
#349
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 78
Most everyone that races runs their packs inverted on the underside of the chassis. So it's really easy to mount a 7th cell. Simply trim out one of the center battery slot dividers so there is a hole just large enough for a cell to set up through the chassis in a normal hump pack configuration about even with the tranny to help keep the weight centered.
If you are still running your battery packs in the stock, old mounting possition then just let the 7th cell set down through the chassis on the underside.
If you are still running your battery packs in the stock, old mounting possition then just let the 7th cell set down through the chassis on the underside.
#355
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 78
Originally posted by Mr R/C
As for the radio issue I think if you need dual rate on a monster truck for steering you are doing something wrong, Everyone I know says the Maxx needs more steering not less, I run a 130 oz,in servo in mine. It steers ok but could use more.
As for the radio issue I think if you need dual rate on a monster truck for steering you are doing something wrong, Everyone I know says the Maxx needs more steering not less, I run a 130 oz,in servo in mine. It steers ok but could use more.
#356
U can do more than just mess with your steering to get it to hook up. Try putting your Front shocks to the outer hole, this will increase front traction and help you turn a little better. Try increasing ackerman or camber. There are many things you can do to get your truck to hookup. Ive seen those things hookup better than my xxx-t sometims and they fly. Your truck setup is just off.
#357
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 78
Unless you do some major modifying or you have some aftermarket steering system you can't adjust the ackerman on an E-Maxx. The draglink is a solid flat bar stock.
Moving the shocks to the outer hole will give you more sidebite but not more steering. It will also make the truck less forgiving over rough sections and tend to be a bit twitchy.
Increasing rear toe-in will help make the truck turn quicker but don't over do it. Also makes it a bit more stable under hard accelleration.
Increasing front camber will lose you straightline traction due to the unequal length swingarms. As the truck transfers weight to the rear under accelleration the nose raises, which increases the camber considerably which reduces the contact patch of the front tires with accellerating.
Usually the truck understeers in corners when on throttle. Usually because the inside front tire is lifting and unloading. Then the outside front wheel stop's pulling and becomes dead weight to be pushed through the turn. Tapping the brakes sets the inside front back down but you lose forward momentum.
Better solution is to run the rear shocks with heavier oil for more pack to keep more weight from transfering to the rear. And a rear sway bar helps if the track is fairly smooth and even with a lot of bite.
Moving the shocks to the outer hole will give you more sidebite but not more steering. It will also make the truck less forgiving over rough sections and tend to be a bit twitchy.
Increasing rear toe-in will help make the truck turn quicker but don't over do it. Also makes it a bit more stable under hard accelleration.
Increasing front camber will lose you straightline traction due to the unequal length swingarms. As the truck transfers weight to the rear under accelleration the nose raises, which increases the camber considerably which reduces the contact patch of the front tires with accellerating.
Usually the truck understeers in corners when on throttle. Usually because the inside front tire is lifting and unloading. Then the outside front wheel stop's pulling and becomes dead weight to be pushed through the turn. Tapping the brakes sets the inside front back down but you lose forward momentum.
Better solution is to run the rear shocks with heavier oil for more pack to keep more weight from transfering to the rear. And a rear sway bar helps if the track is fairly smooth and even with a lot of bite.
#359
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 78
Okay, not that it matters at this point but exactly how long have you been "racing" your E-Maxx and what kind of lap times do you turn compared to lap times you get with your XXXt?
My setup on my Maxx yields lap times nearly equal to A-main stock truck times where I race. What kind of laps are you turning for comparison sake?
My setup on my Maxx yields lap times nearly equal to A-main stock truck times where I race. What kind of laps are you turning for comparison sake?
#360
I used to with a T. Setting up a xxx-t is just like setting up a maxx (same principles used). But you have a advantage with 4wd, u have to remember this after this because the xxx-t is 2wd and is harder to drive. I race Mod xxx-t and i have the 2end fastest lap times a nitro xxx-nt beat me by 2 sec. I also race onroad mostly but i am gettin back into offroad. How long have u been racing?


