stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

If you're talking about the CVD "bone", the spring steel ones work just fine. I've never had an issue with one. Maybe the one-way/ spool crowd could offer a different opinion.

macaofriend

iTrader: (19)

I have the multi diff and I am talking about the "CVD" bone, except it really is a universal. Anyway, I bent one and in searching for a replacement, I see that each of these is around $20 and I was wondering if anyone has used any other brands? For example MIP or some others?

Chris08527

iTrader: (16)

guys is there any pattern to tighten both the bulk heads and the top deck to elimate tweaking???

Art Jensen

iTrader: (3)

if you just "X" the torque pattern, that works pretty well. Meaning do the left front, right rear, right front, left rear, and then repeat on the inner screws. Pretty much like a head gasket on a 1/1 car.

Chris08527

iTrader: (16)

thanks ART

YOU'VE GOT MAIL!!!

C_O_jones

iTrader: (11)

Do it just like a real car- always start from the center then go out.
If you start from the ousides it can put a bow in the center.

Chris08527

iTrader: (16)

same X pattern bit start from the inside???

hpipro321

it dosent matter

steveM3

I had the opportunity to demo one of the first Tweak Plates from Art Jensen (manufactured by BMI) this weekend at Superior Hobbies. Let me just tell you that this is a piece of rc luxury. It saved me a lot of time and hassle because I didn’t have to use the droop blocks to square everything up. Jared Scott also used the Tweak Plate all weekend before every run to make sure the chassis was perfectly flush with the bulkheads. He will be taking it to Germany next week.

Art told me that several have ordered their tweak plate already. There are 20 plates being run tomorrow night and should be released very soon. Mike Blackstock and Ralph Burch will also be receiving one. Several notable Xray drivers came by the trailer to borrow the tweak plate including Dave Bowser and Mr. EA (Eric Anderson) himself. I guarantee they will be ordering one. Chris Tossolini, (Corally RDX) showed a lot of interest so I believe Art will be looking into making a plate for the RDX. The cool looking standoffs that hold the chassis to the plate are made from nickel plated brass and have stainless steel grip screws on top. I believe they are going to be sold separately.

Art, this are the fact I remember from the race but what other info do you have. I know it is early but how can people order the Tweak Plate and what is the final price????

Charles

If anybody has a Xray FK'05 chassis that they want to sell let me know.

Thx email [email protected]

new92

For Art's plate, you just loosen everything then attach the 4 posts through and attach to the chassis? then tighten everything back up?

Just got my T2 last night and starting to build tonight. I may have to grab me one of these in the next few weeks too lol.

new92

Oh btw, when I ordered the car from RCshack I asked them how long they had hadit in due to some of the runnig updates and whatnot. They said they had just gotten it in earlier in the week. When I opened the box there was a set of foams in it. I was under the impression that the foams just came with the first runs and/or preorders.

Are they coming with all of the kits now or did I get an old kit?

Since i only race on asphault with rubber are they worth anything to sell?

TomB

iTrader: (10)

i think 2 foamies are about $10 us? so for a set they are $20 us. this is a rough guess from what i saw on stormers. if you have no use for them sell them. foam after about 6 months or so goes of anyway and gets hard.



on another note, i have a t2 that does nothing but push on corner exit.
i have the following setup
FRONT
-kit silver springs 30wt GS oil 2 holes open
-4.5mm ride height
-droop small amount of lift, but not alot
-shock pos outside hole on arm, 2nd from bottom on tower
-lowest roll centre
-camber link lowerhole outer
-caster 2 degrees (ive tryed 6 but really doesn't do much, if anything it was worse with 6)

REAR
red springs, 30 wt gs oil 3 holes open
-5mm ride height
-shock outside on arm top hole on tower
-camber link lower hole outer
-rear arms angled forward
-stiffest swaybar

36 sorex medium b all round

no matter what i do it pushes on exit when i go on the power. if i tighten the diff it becomes hard to drive (small track) and it turns in bad

how can i get rid of exit push? as last resort o have taken out 4 screws on the top deck and the front posts to try to instigate more grip, but this seems like a pritty bodgy method if you ask me. my rear end is supper stiff yet is still feels crap on exit

Charles

Hello, I have a Xray '05 for sale ($100) in classified section.

email- [email protected]

Frans H

@TomB: try running a spool or one way !! and 4 degrees caster. If you need more steering, make the front trackwidth smaller by removing the spacers between the bulkheads and pinholders.