Don't cut that piece off entirely or you will have no brakes! You should only have to shave a little bit of it to get the brakes freed up as I did the same thing on my MTX-2.

I haven't bought the mtx3 reserving judgement until
I can see one run at my local track and after seeing
the run robbie put together yesterday It made me
want to buy one that day. from what I saw the car
had the same straight away speed as the tc3 with
better corner speed and it almost looked like an electric
cars in the in field

I listened!

I came to the same conclusion. I did a bit of everything!

Sanded the brake pads.

Sanded the brake guide on the rear brace.

Bent the pins VERY slightly (I'm not sure if this is necessary)


I just kept tweeking untill I was happy. It involved stripping the rear end about ten times checking every componant but as I said in an earlier post sure this is half the fun of building!

All the best

patelladragger: if you put only one disc, be sure to put more material on the flat part of the brake shaft and the brake stops up and bottom on the left, because i don't think a single disc is thick enough to be in the range.

one thing you guys may want to try, or maybe you already did.
place two 3-4mm washers above the fuel tank ears. your tank will sit 3-4mm lower. but be sure that the tank isn't touching the chassis!

You got it

IT'S NOT!

Just enlarge the pin holes a bit to free up the brake plate, this helps a lot.

I just don't know why so many brake problems around here, I did mine as per manual and polish each parts a bit then a perfect brake is done, It has no drag at idle and perfectly stopped my car on the straight.

You are supposed to go fast when on the straight parts.

i just followed the instructions and my brakes worked great

i listened and told dublin!! but was busy bout his pipe.

any one found the front belt slack?
put a small washer under the front screws on the front lay shaft mount!

Parts and tires are now in call your LHS.
here are the different tire shores that are avalible.
35 fronts
37 fronts
40 fronts
42 fronts
45 fronts
35 rears
37 rears
40 rears
42 rears
45 rears

I would also sugest that you use the MTX-2 front dog bones on your cars, they work great.

You guys should try running the new 2.1 Stratus from Portoform, It is the best body that I've ever run, good steering and verry stable. This is the body that I recomend for this car.

Greetings,
I too have an MTX3 as my first nitro tourer, and whilst I am still bitching about the engine (I need a starter box!), indeed comparing how the car handles *on rubber*, the stock setting's handling feels very similar to my trf414m. I have tried V1rs and impulses before, all off 'em had quite boring reaction timing in the corners. Whereas the MTX3 was able to do chicanes and hairpins like my 414m. This is bad. I may actually want to race nitro!!!!

Hi Guys,

Most parts for MTX3 are available now. More parts are coming in 1-2 days. So if you don't see what you want just placed your name on the wait list.

Also, Proline Stratus 2.1 and PF-1 LMP 1/8 scale onroad bodies are in stock

Vince
www.microRCshop.com

Right, but sometimes you have to stop. you know that.