kyle "hitawall"

iTrader: (10)

so then to get less initial steering and more steering through the center and off the corner i raise the front pin mount. also what does pro-squat and anti-squat do.

stinkypop

iTrader: (1)

sorry my bad.
lowering the front pin will reduce caster therefore increase steering.

centax error!

which part of the turn? I assume you gain initial steering but loose some on the middle part because you will loose some camber as you turn the wheels correct me if I'm wrong

I meant lower the hingepin ( flat). If the car is pushing on the middle turn, can I use this tuning to the front ( Front RClower than Rear RC) to increase mid steering.

shorter link=less roll- means quick direction changes? is this a good tuning ( shorter link front and rear) if the layout has lots of chicanes and succesive left and right turns?

shorter link on front= less cornering grip on front-means that I can use this tuning if the front suddenly hooks during intial turn? I had this problem before and what I did was to stiffen the front and it worked but I guess I lost some steering on the rest part of the turn somewhat

I was running kick up last night with a blue springs up front and yellow on rear and the car was loose coming in turns. Change to white springs on the rear ( thought yellow was toosoft ) but still loose. Changed to dark blue springs on the front and it got better. Then added sway bar to the front on next run and the rear didn't break traction anymore. I can't really understand what I did but it worked that night I think I reduced some some weight transfer to the front but then again it felt better with the sway bar so I reduced chassis roll also. I wonder If could have changed either one only and get rid of the problem totally but I did not have enough time to go back bec it was during a race. I think it's a good idea to make only one change at a time so you will understand the effect and learn from it

My car felt it has more steering when I had the shorter link. I am using the middle hole now to be safe and mess with it until I figured it out Maybe someone can shed more light between a shorter and a longer link


What does it mean by fast speed steering and slow speed steering? fast speed= off power entry coming from a straight?, slow speed steering= off power steering on the infield?

Pardon for lots of newbie question but I'm eager to learn how to set up my 05 right

Thanks in advance.

CE-X

centax error!

Ed, your right I meant the front hinge pin flat.

I haven't tried pro dive before but might as well try it though. I'm used to oneways and when I made the switch to diff it felt like I'm missing some of the off power steering on entry. Our track is bumpy and if I have pro dive do I need to stiffen up the front or reduced rear droop so that the front end of the chassis will not scrape to the ground? I'm worried that by reducing rear droop will again take out some steering off power on entry. Also, to compensate for the lost caster ( due to pro dive) do I need to change caster blocks form 3to 4.5 degrees to keep mid corner steering if I was already happy with it when I had a zero kickup?

Thanks in advance.

CE

Formula1fan

I an running the multi diff locked (spool) man that thing chews threw the dog bone blades. Has anyone else had this problem, and come up with a fix.

kidDynomite

Pro-dive works great with a one-way. Keep the rears in the middle holes. I still get lots of steering with the 3* blocks, but the 4.5's do a better job. Your front end won't scrape the ground. Just try it with your current setup to feel the difference, then make changes from there. It's hard to explain, but the front end always felt planted or running flat. I've even tried it with a one-way and foams and if felt like I was running a diff, but more free with strong pull out of the corners. It's definitely worth experimenting with.

kidDynomite

The spool is working 100% of the race. There's no give at any point so the only fix is a bunch of spare blades in the tackle box.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

I'm not sure how it works on the Xrays, but on my 415, if i place 1mm of shims under the rear block on the front, it equates to just over 1deg reduction in castor, ie I go from 4 to 3deg. Personally I just leave it with the reduced castor.
I wouldn't worry too much about masses of changes to the chassis, so don't bother with spring change etc, it's more of a fine tune (but still has a good effect) than say changing springs.
Just make sure you reset your FRONT droop if you do it though, the new arm angle will mean your droop screws are in a different place
HiH
Ed

protc3

iTrader: (13)

hey guys,
i have my final prototype finished for the fk05.i moved the batteries on the car to eliminate some of the weight transfer to the front going into the corners.i always felt the car was loose in the rear with standard setups and this corrected it.i moved the servo forward some and also made the motor mount adjustable from front to rear so you can adjust gear mesh in a hurry with your batteries in the car.i also cut a .025 deep pocket under the batteries for your tape to lay in so it doesnt rub the carpet or asphalt.i made it possible to run my included battery strap,xray's battery strap or use tape.the cell slots will fit 3300,3600,and 3700 cells.i also cut out pockets under the diffs to make diff adjustments with the body on.heres some pics.let me know what you think.

Charles Godwin

iTrader: (2)

My fk05

mike ivy

iTrader: (51)

When Is the chassis going to be available and also what is the thickness of the chassis

stormperson

iTrader: (1)

Jason- Just curious, in which direction did you move the batteries? And also how does the servo movement affect the weight distrabution?

And also compared to the stock 2.5mm chassis how much does the chassis weigh?

Thanks!

protc3

iTrader: (13)

the chassis is quite a bit lighter than the stock chassis.it is also 2.5mm but is made from a high modulous carbon fiber for carpet and quasi isotropic for asphalt.moving the servo forward added some weight over the left front tire for a better balance and also adds a little more room for electronics.batteries were moved forward just enough for even weight transfer from front to rear,rear to front and left to right.i found that with the batteries as far back as they are stock,it seems to transfer too much weight forward entering a corner and whipping the rear end anound and also creating excess roll in the front end.making these changes allowed me to use my standard setups and also makes the car react alot better to setup changes.i will take the actual weight of the car with electronics as soon as possible.im still having fun running it

MartynD

Well I am chewing up blades running the mutli-diff as a one-way. Though I run the car alot (2 nights and 1 full day a week) I have been replacing blades every 2 weeks since I went from the ball diff to the multi-diff. I run 19T and stock.

John Q

iTrader: (5)

I'm running 19t and Mod.. After 2 runs with a 8turn It looked like i need to changed them. Its alittle bit better with a 19T. They need to start sell them in bulk 25 pack....