I was there, we were doing 25sec lap in Pro spec A-maim and Euro were doing 27.5 sec lap A-main.

Hi,

for those who run the SRX version on local / club race ; what droop do you use FR and RR on asphalt ? How do you measure it ?

Also, this chassis being specific, how / where do you measure the ride height FR and RR ? Any pics welcomed !

Thanks
G-rem

Droop is non-adjustable.

Droop and ride height is a preference tune.

You can adjust droop the way its done in 1/10 scale offroad. Put a 1mm spacer in the shock and screw the eyelet in or out to suite.

Well, yeah, but not sure if that was what he was asking though.

He has the SRX not the standard kit. SRX uses different arms and has an optional piece you can add for droop.

Steps for ride height and droop as follow:
1. Set ride height with battery in car. Your target should be around 5.2 and 5.0 front. Best way to measure rear is at centre of back. Front, I usually remove the bumper so I can measure the front. On SRX, the screws go through the suspension holder. So you would have to reattach those in.

2. once right height is set, disconnect shocks.
3. If you have droop gauge, you place them under the chassis. If you don’t, you can measure from top of axle to surface.

For front, if your ride height it 5, you want droop at 6 mm. So you would screw in the adjusters till 6 mm is achieved.

rear if you set 5.2, you want droop around 5.7

This is a good starting point. After it’s set you can adjust after you do some laps. Making sure to do equal turns on left and right.

Thanks Raman, very insightful. So as a standard rule 1mm droop over ride height in front and 0,5mm over ride height in the rear.

Regarding the ride height measurement, I find it less easy than on standard carbon car because of the shape of the chassis at the rear. At front, it is indeed trunkated by the protruding bumper support.

One thing regarding your description of the technic to adjust droop : are you making reference to the shock collar adjuster ? I thaught droop could only be set by putting shims under the piston in the shock body ? Because on the SRX, there is no possibility to put droop screw in the TRF420 arms.

Regards
G-rem

These are a popular droop solution for the TT02 SRX. They are the originals and nice thick carbon so they don’t bend like the copies that are out there.

https://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars...srxtrf420.html

Not sure... didn't the SRX have the even newer suspension/arms so the droop parts (for the previous version, like on the SR, for example) don't work any more?

you’re right the SRX has the 420 arms with the droop holes on opposite end that the optional droop part needs. Easy solution would be to add holes to the arms for the set screws. Or switch to the older arms that the original type S came with

Or add the part Qatmix referenced.

if you had the standard kit with the original suspension, inserting spacers in the shocks is the recommended way.

The type S/SR/SRX use touring car lower arms, which had holes for the set screws that adjust droop. The Type S/SR has arms with set screws on each side, because they were reversible, eg could be flipped over, giving you more botttom shock options. They worked perfect with the optional part from Tamiya. With the SRX they got lazy and included arms from the 420X which are not reversible and have the hole for droop on one side. They should have simply added a hole.

Using the droop screw is more precise so I’d opt for that with the SRX

TT-02 Spec Cub Racing.

Had overall TQ but got P2 in the Main because the car's steering felt inconsistent (never could get it to track straight) and cause the car to pull all of the sudden on the last 30 seconds.

Driving my SRX.

Usually the wandering steering is the weak servo saver in these kits. If you are allowed I upgraded mine to a Xray ultra stiff servo saver.
Ah I see you are in VA. I was hoping to come down to one of their events with Hobbytown, but 4-5 hour drive for me.

I swapped out the servo saver for a solid Tamiya blue one.

I live in Northern VA so I'm part of the Radio Control Racers of Northern VA club. The Hobbytown series in Richmond also looks awesome.

Other than not clanking boards or side rails does anyone know of a way to help secure the stock dog bones from popping out of the front end of a stock TT02? Tonight practicing I experienced this a couple times, once I think it was from such a hard impact but the others they were slight brushes with the barriers. We run a stock class that does not allow changing to driveshafts / universals. Thanks in advance 😃