1387LikesTamiya TT02 Thread
05-16-2025 | 08:57 AM
#4008
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 52
I appreciate you guys responding!
I completely understand about the throttle inputs. I'm only going so aggressive to show that it simply doesn't spin out to the right no matter what I do. The spin-out problem makes itself known on the track in tight corners with smooth throttle on exit and in fast corners on the edge of traction. I can't carry nearly as much speed to the left without spinning out as I can to the right. I've run VTA with some state champ VTA guys and I do okay, I'm definitely able to drive the car properly during a race.
I do have a bearing kit in it and an aluminum servo arm. I used shoulder screws and washers to get proper drag arm alignment with the servo horn.
It is possible this is due to the Traxxas motor and the torque coupling, but I have plenty of other shaft drive cars of different scales with brushless motors and I don't see this pronounced an effect.
These are definitely just a step above toy grade as far as sloppiness I agree. This isn't a knock on Tamiya, my very first car was a grasshopper in 1985. 40 years later my daughter got to build the same kit!
The class I'm racing this in is a plastic tub chassis class. We all run the Traxxas 12 turn and yokomo 28A's. Outside of that there are no rules. I just ordered a yokomo RS 2.0. it's the most traditional four-wheel drive belt touring car I can find with a plastic chassis. I have a feeling this is going to make all my tto2 problems go away. 😉
I completely understand about the throttle inputs. I'm only going so aggressive to show that it simply doesn't spin out to the right no matter what I do. The spin-out problem makes itself known on the track in tight corners with smooth throttle on exit and in fast corners on the edge of traction. I can't carry nearly as much speed to the left without spinning out as I can to the right. I've run VTA with some state champ VTA guys and I do okay, I'm definitely able to drive the car properly during a race.
I do have a bearing kit in it and an aluminum servo arm. I used shoulder screws and washers to get proper drag arm alignment with the servo horn.
It is possible this is due to the Traxxas motor and the torque coupling, but I have plenty of other shaft drive cars of different scales with brushless motors and I don't see this pronounced an effect.
These are definitely just a step above toy grade as far as sloppiness I agree. This isn't a knock on Tamiya, my very first car was a grasshopper in 1985. 40 years later my daughter got to build the same kit!
The class I'm racing this in is a plastic tub chassis class. We all run the Traxxas 12 turn and yokomo 28A's. Outside of that there are no rules. I just ordered a yokomo RS 2.0. it's the most traditional four-wheel drive belt touring car I can find with a plastic chassis. I have a feeling this is going to make all my tto2 problems go away. 😉
05-16-2025 | 01:15 PM
#4009
Which TT-02 kit? What upgrades or hop-ups on the car?
Couple of things come to mind...
- Did you use trim or subtrim to center the steering servo? Are you using adjustable turnbuckles on the steering?
You may not have centered your steering properly either mechanically or in the radio which might be giving you too much turning. If your radio supports, check your EPA (end point adjustments). Also you want to use SUBTRIM to finely adjust the servo as using trim can cause more steering in one direction vs the other. If you only have Trim on your radio, then it is very import to make sure you mechanically adjust the steering as close to centered & symmetrical as possible.
- Is the car balanced side to side?
Set the car down on a flat level surface. Use a round tool such as hex driver/thin Philips screwdriver/hobby knive to lift the rear of the car under the centerline of the chassis until both tires are off of the ground. Does the car want to lean to one side or the other?
- Have you checked droop or the down travel of the suspenion?
It seems like when you are turning left the left rear tire might be lifting or not maintaining enough contact with the pavement. Is the left rear suspension traveling down as far as the right rear suspension. If there is a mechanical issue prevent the left rear suspension, this could cause this behavior.
- You cross weight/corner weights look off in your earlier post.
It looks like you don't have enough weight on your Right Front & Left Rear. If you are using adjustable shock collars, I would at least add a thin shock collar spacer to the right front (or adjust the threaded shock collar). This will help prevent the right front suspension collapsing so much during left turns under power.
- Did you measure the springs to see if they are the same length and/or spring weight?
You mentioned swapping shocks, but did you keep the springs on the same corners or move those as well? If you swap the springs from LR to RR and vice versa and the problem follows the spring, there may be an issue with the springs.
Couple of things come to mind...
- Did you use trim or subtrim to center the steering servo? Are you using adjustable turnbuckles on the steering?
You may not have centered your steering properly either mechanically or in the radio which might be giving you too much turning. If your radio supports, check your EPA (end point adjustments). Also you want to use SUBTRIM to finely adjust the servo as using trim can cause more steering in one direction vs the other. If you only have Trim on your radio, then it is very import to make sure you mechanically adjust the steering as close to centered & symmetrical as possible.
- Is the car balanced side to side?
Set the car down on a flat level surface. Use a round tool such as hex driver/thin Philips screwdriver/hobby knive to lift the rear of the car under the centerline of the chassis until both tires are off of the ground. Does the car want to lean to one side or the other?
- Have you checked droop or the down travel of the suspenion?
It seems like when you are turning left the left rear tire might be lifting or not maintaining enough contact with the pavement. Is the left rear suspension traveling down as far as the right rear suspension. If there is a mechanical issue prevent the left rear suspension, this could cause this behavior.
- You cross weight/corner weights look off in your earlier post.
It looks like you don't have enough weight on your Right Front & Left Rear. If you are using adjustable shock collars, I would at least add a thin shock collar spacer to the right front (or adjust the threaded shock collar). This will help prevent the right front suspension collapsing so much during left turns under power.
- Did you measure the springs to see if they are the same length and/or spring weight?
You mentioned swapping shocks, but did you keep the springs on the same corners or move those as well? If you swap the springs from LR to RR and vice versa and the problem follows the spring, there may be an issue with the springs.
05-16-2025 | 02:52 PM
#4011
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 52
Which TT-02 kit? What upgrades or hop-ups on the car?
Couple of things come to mind...
- Did you use trim or subtrim to center the steering servo? Are you using adjustable turnbuckles on the steering?
You may not have centered your steering properly either mechanically or in the radio which might be giving you too much turning. If your radio supports, check your EPA (end point adjustments). Also you want to use SUBTRIM to finely adjust the servo as using trim can cause more steering in one direction vs the other. If you only have Trim on your radio, then it is very import to make sure you mechanically adjust the steering as close to centered & symmetrical as possible.
I centered with subtrim. ATV is 64/62. Physical turn circle is with 1/2" measured on flat ground. Approximately 6ft diameter ( I don't really care about the size, I mark both left and right distance from a fixed wall and then adjust the tighter circle direction out to meet the wider circle direction. This prevents going into travel bind. Horn is in the correct spot. Zero binding. No epa buzzing. The car takes off/drives/backs up perfectly straight from left turn or right turn.
- Is the car balanced side to side?
Damn near perfect. See the scales picture. Better than most my X-ray are. Cross weight is 50/50. F/R weight is 47/53. F/R is 11g (3%) heavier than the F/L. L/R is 1.6g heavier than R/R.
Set the car down on a flat level surface. Use a round tool such as hex driver/thin Philips screwdriver/hobby knive to lift the rear of the car under the centerline of the chassis until both tires are off of the ground. Does the car want to lean to one side or the other?
- Have you checked droop or the down travel of the suspenion?
Droop is non adjustable but is very even when measured on my Arrowmax setup station on glass. The shocks are with.05mm in length. Double checked.
It seems like when you are turning left the left rear tire might be lifting or not maintaining enough contact with the pavement. Is the left rear suspension traveling down as far as the right rear suspension. If there is a mechanical issue prevent the left rear suspension, this could cause this behavior.
- You cross weight/corner weights look off in your earlier post. It is very close. I tried using the thin preload spacer on the R/F to cause a little more push on left turns and the car pulled to the side under acceleration and it didn't stop the cornering issue.
It looks like you don't have enough weight on your Right Front & Left Rear. If you are using adjustable shock collars, I would at least add a thin shock collar spacer to the right front (or adjust the threaded shock collar). This will help prevent the right front suspension collapsing so much during left turns under power.
- Did you measure the springs to see if they are the same length and/or spring weight?
I swapped complete shocks. I swapped axles. I swapped hexes. I went circular on the swap corners, so L/F became R/F, etc.
You mentioned swapping shocks, but did you keep the springs on the same corners or move those as well? If you swap the springs from LR to RR and vice versa and the problem follows the spring, there may be an issue with the springs.
Couple of things come to mind...
- Did you use trim or subtrim to center the steering servo? Are you using adjustable turnbuckles on the steering?
You may not have centered your steering properly either mechanically or in the radio which might be giving you too much turning. If your radio supports, check your EPA (end point adjustments). Also you want to use SUBTRIM to finely adjust the servo as using trim can cause more steering in one direction vs the other. If you only have Trim on your radio, then it is very import to make sure you mechanically adjust the steering as close to centered & symmetrical as possible.
I centered with subtrim. ATV is 64/62. Physical turn circle is with 1/2" measured on flat ground. Approximately 6ft diameter ( I don't really care about the size, I mark both left and right distance from a fixed wall and then adjust the tighter circle direction out to meet the wider circle direction. This prevents going into travel bind. Horn is in the correct spot. Zero binding. No epa buzzing. The car takes off/drives/backs up perfectly straight from left turn or right turn.
- Is the car balanced side to side?
Damn near perfect. See the scales picture. Better than most my X-ray are. Cross weight is 50/50. F/R weight is 47/53. F/R is 11g (3%) heavier than the F/L. L/R is 1.6g heavier than R/R.
Set the car down on a flat level surface. Use a round tool such as hex driver/thin Philips screwdriver/hobby knive to lift the rear of the car under the centerline of the chassis until both tires are off of the ground. Does the car want to lean to one side or the other?
- Have you checked droop or the down travel of the suspenion?
Droop is non adjustable but is very even when measured on my Arrowmax setup station on glass. The shocks are with.05mm in length. Double checked.
It seems like when you are turning left the left rear tire might be lifting or not maintaining enough contact with the pavement. Is the left rear suspension traveling down as far as the right rear suspension. If there is a mechanical issue prevent the left rear suspension, this could cause this behavior.
- You cross weight/corner weights look off in your earlier post. It is very close. I tried using the thin preload spacer on the R/F to cause a little more push on left turns and the car pulled to the side under acceleration and it didn't stop the cornering issue.
It looks like you don't have enough weight on your Right Front & Left Rear. If you are using adjustable shock collars, I would at least add a thin shock collar spacer to the right front (or adjust the threaded shock collar). This will help prevent the right front suspension collapsing so much during left turns under power.
- Did you measure the springs to see if they are the same length and/or spring weight?
I swapped complete shocks. I swapped axles. I swapped hexes. I went circular on the swap corners, so L/F became R/F, etc.
You mentioned swapping shocks, but did you keep the springs on the same corners or move those as well? If you swap the springs from LR to RR and vice versa and the problem follows the spring, there may be an issue with the springs.
05-29-2025 | 02:19 PM
#4013
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2024
Posts: 242
tt-01 or tt-02 for spec racing....
i know this has been debated and its always seems to be a toss up. i to plan to do testing myself between the 2 as im going to be doing a 1000 lap enduro. its a box stock class except for the following:
bearings
alum motor mount
30/40mm fan
gravity (ride) usgt tires
cvd axles in the front
track layout looks to favor larger sweeping right turns. where left turns, one is a sweeping 90 degree and 2 tight 180.
its looks to be on black crc carpet, so grip should be good
max battery is 8000mah but i think tekin 6200mah (280 gram) batteries are going to be used.
stock gearing is used for tt-01 and tt-02 meaning the tt-02 has a slightly better fdr at 8.27 vs 8.35
im unsure if there is a min weight or not. if there is a min weight, its going to be 1450grams
im leaning toward the tt-02 but the tt-01 i understand to be a slightly more competitive car. i like to know what your take is in all this
additionally cause i havent checked but hoping some people know, for a stock chassis, what is the rear toe on a tt-01 and tt-02? i have a feeling its like none
i know this has been debated and its always seems to be a toss up. i to plan to do testing myself between the 2 as im going to be doing a 1000 lap enduro. its a box stock class except for the following:
bearings
alum motor mount
30/40mm fan
gravity (ride) usgt tires
cvd axles in the front
track layout looks to favor larger sweeping right turns. where left turns, one is a sweeping 90 degree and 2 tight 180.
its looks to be on black crc carpet, so grip should be good
max battery is 8000mah but i think tekin 6200mah (280 gram) batteries are going to be used.
stock gearing is used for tt-01 and tt-02 meaning the tt-02 has a slightly better fdr at 8.27 vs 8.35
im unsure if there is a min weight or not. if there is a min weight, its going to be 1450grams
im leaning toward the tt-02 but the tt-01 i understand to be a slightly more competitive car. i like to know what your take is in all this
additionally cause i havent checked but hoping some people know, for a stock chassis, what is the rear toe on a tt-01 and tt-02? i have a feeling its like none
05-30-2025 | 05:23 AM
#4015
05-31-2025 | 05:09 AM
#4016
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 50
I did back to back testing a few years ago on our small tight indoor asphalt track of the TT01e versus the TT02. While I liked the better steering of the TT01e, the TT02 had an advantage with a better FD over the TT01e. Overall I was faster with my TT02. I never did try the TT01e without the top deck to get more flex in the chassis especially on asphalt.
Alot of guys at my track were TT01e believers for a long time, until I was able to shim out the slop of the TT02. Once my steering was more predictable I took a couple of podiums before our track shutdown.
Now the TT01e is a bit more robust when it comes to hits with barriers and pipes, but I also strengthened the front steering knuckles on my TT02 by using a longer screw on the upper and lower portions.
Alot of guys at my track were TT01e believers for a long time, until I was able to shim out the slop of the TT02. Once my steering was more predictable I took a couple of podiums before our track shutdown.
Now the TT01e is a bit more robust when it comes to hits with barriers and pipes, but I also strengthened the front steering knuckles on my TT02 by using a longer screw on the upper and lower portions.
05-31-2025 | 10:34 AM
#4017
Tech Rookie
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 2
For the TCS race at 180 Raceway I ran the Gens Ace Redline 2.0 6500mah battery and my car was the fastest GT ProSpec there, just not the driver...LOL 
. I qualified 3rd and was very close to the front two runners but screwed up in the main and fell back. But if you are running GT ProSpec and following the 1400g minimum weight rule then the way to go is a full size pack that gets the car to the minimum 1400g. The bigger packs have lower IR's and much less voltage drop off.
If you don't have a weight limit rule, then run the shorty pack to the rear. Before the implemented the 1400g minimum weight rule by GT ProSpec was under 1200g with the small shorty pack.
. I qualified 3rd and was very close to the front two runners but screwed up in the main and fell back. But if you are running GT ProSpec and following the 1400g minimum weight rule then the way to go is a full size pack that gets the car to the minimum 1400g. The bigger packs have lower IR's and much less voltage drop off.If you don't have a weight limit rule, then run the shorty pack to the rear. Before the implemented the 1400g minimum weight rule by GT ProSpec was under 1200g with the small shorty pack.
Would you happen to have a discharger?
I would be interested to know what voltage the GensAce 6500 pack has after a 2000mAh discharge at a given high amperage (40A for example).
Or if someone else can provide this kind of info...
Tnx in advance :-)
Eric.
06-01-2025 | 07:42 PM
#4019
Hello TonyScrews,
Would you happen to have a discharger?
I would be interested to know what voltage the GensAce 6500 pack has after a 2000mAh discharge at a given high amperage (40A for example).
Or if someone else can provide this kind of info...
Tnx in advance :-)
Eric.
Would you happen to have a discharger?
I would be interested to know what voltage the GensAce 6500 pack has after a 2000mAh discharge at a given high amperage (40A for example).
Or if someone else can provide this kind of info...
Tnx in advance :-)
Eric.
06-02-2025 | 04:18 AM
#4020
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 50
Biggest thing is shim the suspension arms so there's less slop but no binding.
I reinforced the front upper and lower sections with a longer screw to prevent the knuckle from snapping.
CVDs on the front with cups (Yeah racing).
Trim the limiters. (see attachments).
Use really thick grease in the front diff (I use Lucas Red and Tacky). And keep the rear diff empty and clean.
Flip the shocks upside-down and add some Red & Tacky.
And use the Rakiri body.
