Class- Narrow Class
Date- 2/4/25
Location- Monterey, CA
Race Time- 5:28.696
Fastest Lap- 3.880
Chassis-MR03-N
Body- Datsun 240ZG
Wheelbase-90mm
Tires-F 30 shore Kyosho / R 20 shore Kyosho
Wheels-F- N 0mm 20mm Kyosho / R- N 0mm 20mm Kyosho
Motor- stock silver can
Batteries- EBL 1100 mah
Front Springs- stock
T-Plate- stock
Motor Mount- stock
Dampener (If applicable)- stock
Dampener Fluid (If applicable)-Dry
Gearing- 7T pinion
Notes- Getting use to CCW direction. I'm starting to get the flow.

CCW is no joke there is a rhythm but it definitely feels more choppy and the "S" is definitely less natural in this direction... so far box stock my best is 275.107.

Also interesting to note I setup my MR03 to run box stock as well and it's ~.2 avg faster than my SR27... the ESC just has more low end rip it feels like a different class of motor :O

If it helps anyone, when switching layouts or directions, I change where I am driving from to see what I like best. Just like tuning the car, tune your driving location.

Great runs Guys, y’all just keep getting faster and faster, Awesome.
Later Walt

Class- Narrow Class
Date- 2/7/25
Location- Monterey, CA
Race Time- 5:08.004
Fastest Lap- 3.764
Chassis-MR03-N
Body- Datsun 240ZG
Wheelbase-90mm
Tires-F 30 shore Kyosho / R 20 shore Kyosho
Wheels-F- N 0mm 20mm Kyosho / R- N 0mm 20mm Kyosho
Motor- stock silver can
Batteries- Energizer 800 mah
Front Springs- stock
T-Plate- stock
Motor Mount- stock
Dampener (If applicable)- stock
Dampener Fluid (If applicable)-Dry
Gearing- 7T pinion
Notes- I felt more confident and found a better line. Learning where I can be faster to accelerate as early as I could. Improved by 20 seconds from previous entry. Hoping to get under 5 minutes this month.

It feels GREAT when you see those times getting lower and your lines get cleaner! Your consistency is VERY GOOD!

That's a SWEET body too!

Class- Box Stock Sportsman
Date- 2/7/25
Location- Monterey, CA
Race Time- 5:02.347
Fastest Lap- 3.666
Chassis-MR03-W
Body- McLaren P1GTR
Wheelbase-98 mm
Tires-F 30 shore Kyosho / R 20 shore Kyosho
Wheels-F- N 0 mm 20mm Kyosho / R- W +1.5 mm 20mm Kyosho
Motor- stock silver can
Batteries- Energizer 800 mah
Front Springs- stock
T-Plate- stock
Motor Mount- stock
Dampener (If applicable)- stock
Dampener Fluid (If applicable)-Dry
Gearing- 7T pinion
Notes- trying out box stock. This is a lot easier to drive than the narrow I am use to driving. I don’t have any worries traction rolling as much as I did with narrow. I’m still getting the hang of it, I’m not as consistent, but I’ll give this a try! I swapped out the stock front wheels with a 0 mm offset. The stock front +1.5 mm would snag on the walls. 0 mm is much better as it would protect the servo as well.

Thanks Drew! It does feel good, and seeing how fast you guys are, pushes me to find better lines. It’s not easy for newbies like myself, but hopefully one day I can be up there with the fast guys.

Here’s a Z photo I captured! Enjoy!

Got a few timed runs in tonight after a few days off from running. They aren't my best runs, but after a few days off and adult refreshments my reflexes weren't the greatest! Ran my 911 GT3 RSR and ProStock with a 12C. I about have the setup down on the 911. Went to PN KS low profile med (38*) fronts on PN 19mm +.5mm 6 hole flanged rims tires taped with PN tape, Rear are PN KSK Soft Slicks on PN 20mm 0mm BBS Yellow wheels. Added 3g of tungsten putty on the nose, removed the top damper disk, and added a dual spring top shock. It's making the 180* at the end of the straight without TR and without loosing too much speed. steering is at 98% w/ +.5 PN tie rod.
It took A LOT of searching and setups to get it to this point, but going to a 04 from a 03 the steering change is HUGE! My ProStock is GREAT on Reflex 45* LH fronts and 30* Rear Radials on PN 20mm +1mm Fronts and +2mm Rear BBS Yellow wheels w/PN Tape. My ProStock is a PN 2.5W chassis, 04 Board and Arms, Nexx Knucks, V3 Anima 5500kv.



The 911 was good, but when I pushed it to get fast lap times I made too many mistakes, but when I backed it down towards the end I got much more consistent.
The 12C is GREAT, and only limited to my skills and reflexes.
I hope to drop 20 seconds off the 911 and at least 10 off the 12C. I don't think I can do a sub 3 second lap going CCW, but once I got the layout down CCW I LIKE IT! Speed and Technical on same layout is fun!

Have fun Guys!

Nice 911! I'm excited that Kyosho is bringing them back this year with the MR04!!

Thanks iDChuck! PoorBoy just told me about the 911 being rereleased, GREAT NEWS!!! I like my 911 GT3 RSR a lot, but it's a old whitebody I got off ebay and it's very heavy compared to todays bodies! It takes a lot of dialing in to fight Traction Roll. Just looked and it seems like it's a Narrow RM, so no difference there, but it's bound to be lighter!

That P1 is a cool body too, I haven't gotten one yet but they look cool as well as the lights on the Z! I just got a Banzai order in and I grabbed a set of lights finally to try out. Also building a 04 Ready Set Box stock chassis, and after testing the 03 vs 04 ReadySets I'm going to make the 03 a Brushed Stock chassis, probably a 90mm MM for a Yaris body I got too. Just keep turning laps, and speed will come! Took me 10s of thousands of laps to get where I'm at now. You have great consistency, and that's a huge deal at this scale!

Take Care Guys and hope all are warm!

Got the MR04 RWD built, and it went together pretty smooth, but I did find a few things to watch for.

First and mainly your have to be careful of the soft plastic!!! Especially the top cover! I use PN Titanium machine threaded screws everywhere I can, as they have the best fit in the screw shank, meaning it has the tightest threading fit, and I've yet to strip one of their hex heads. BUT in the top covers (light grey) they strip out the plastic as soon as you get them the slightest bit tight, so nickel coarse thread screws is what I had on hand to use, and they work well. I also had one of the plastic pins break off on the second servo plate into the first when assembling. Still went together fine, just be careful.

Second, and this is a overall MR04 problem, is that you can't use 0mm backspaced wheels on the front, at least at a ride height that most run on the M96! This is a big issue for those who what to run in the Narrow class where 0mm wheels all around are mandatory, or older bodies that require them! I've also noticed that the list of bodies Kyosho has on the MR04 list has Narrow bodies listed, but they all are +1mm fronts or wider. SO if they don't come up with a fix, it's going to exclude a lot of bodies out there. Weird design flaw.

Ran it with the same motor, wheel/tire combo, and R8 body I HAD on my 03 Box Stock, and WOW it RUNS!!! It was a few tenths faster on the few laps I ran on the initial setup! It also drove well enough that it felt like I was on a wider track! Power wise it's about the same. Maybe a little less low end power, but a little more top speed, but VERY SMOOTH!!! steering went from 100% on the 03 to 76% on the 04.

Overall. a huge improvement over the MR03 RWD!!! Makes the BoxStock class more fun! A very easy build if you already have a radio and dont want to waste the cash on another radio to sit in the closet! Pic and Timed run to follow.

Looking forward to getting a few 911's so I could run the Porsche cup!

Wow, thats a bummer with the 0mm offset wheels. I guess I'll keep my MR03 around until they address the knuckles. I have the MR04, but the body I am using, the wheel offsets are greater than 0. They do have a skyline 2000GT-R MR04 box stock. They're also using the 0mm offset wheels. Maybe it's the wheels you are using?

I swapped out the front LED's on the Mini-z light kit with warm lights. I bought the 3mm LED warm lights from amazon and just solder them in place of the white LED. I was going for more of a period correct lights.

I mostly run PN wheels, and with them I have to bevel the rear bearing holder on the wheels to clear the arms of my 04s at the ride height I run at. Which is just under 2mm front/just over 2mm rear. At that ride height +1mm wheels just clear the arm ends. Kyosho wheels are a bit thinner at the bearing holder, but I have a bag full of their wheels that have cracked at the rear bearing holder. I haven't tried other makes of wheels, yet, but I have Reflex, Kyo, Nexx, and PN wheels on hand so I will experiment and report back. I thought the regular arms would be thinner, but they are about the same.

I was going to build a pan car chassis for my next build, but I will probably go with a MA02 instead, especially if it comes with a 911 body. I enjoy the mechanics of the AWD/4WD, at least at 1/14th scale and above. I'm interested in how the AWD handles vs. RWD on RCP. On every other racing surface I've run on I was faster with 4WD over RWD.

On the LEDs I have some white leds from a strand that pulled off our icicle Christmas lights, that I'm thinking of using on on of my 102mm bodies. Only thing I need to figure out is how to hook them to the car if I use it on my EVOs since I use the ICS port to run my transponders. I saw a splitter for Sport MR03s, a male plug attached to a small circuit board with 2 female sockets, but looking at the wiring it won't work on MR03/04 ReadySets or EVOs. Maybe there's a different one for the EVOs? More research to do!

Have fun turning some laps!

Interesting, that could be just it then, that PN wheels are built different.

really? I have a MA-020 and its challenging to run as it wants to tumble at every corner. If its legal to add weights to balance out the chassis, I would love to give that a go!

I don't use gyro, so I use the gyro port to power my transponder, leaving the ICS port available to run lights.