Yeah I'm going to go out and buy a new motor and ESC to test your outlandish claim. It's literally impossible for an ESC to go beyond 100% duty cycle.

Yes, it's true: with PWM, once you have 100% signal with no interruptions, that's the absolute max an ESC can give you (as it no longer chops up the batteries supplied power but let's it run freely to the motor). Absolutely zero magic ways to go beyond that. Zero. (Remember, we're not getting into timing here). However - at least in theory - it could still be possible (yet very, very unlikely) for an ESC to behave the way described: if with calibration (incl. LED indicating 100%) etc. you wouldn't actually get to the real 100% PWM signal but something less... then the extra throttle signal might get you to the real 100%. But in my view that would be a defective ESC (or at least shitty firmware). So... sorry, I don't buy it either.

An oscilloscope will tell if at 100% there is still a PWM signal and/or if there is a difference between 100% and 110%

Maybe it is possible, maybe it is a secret function to get some timing at 110%

My oscilloscope says there's no difference.

i have run a tekin rs pro be and an orca oe1 mark 2 back to back (recently switched a month ago), no difference. Think you’re feeling the placebo effect.

You are just creating a steeper throttle curve. the extra RPM you seem to hear is probably because you are having a higher RPM at corner exit, thus the motor will reach top RPM quicker.

Martin Paradis

How does the Hobbywing Stock Spec compare with the R1 Wurks Super Stock Digital 3?

• the hobbywing has a 5 amp bec vs the r1 @ 3 amps. Idk how much of a difference that makes. Both are 6v/7.4v.
• the hobbywing is SLIGHTLY smaller in footprimt size. Its also lower in height, but the R1 might have a bigger heatsink under it. Its hard to tell with the case design. Weight is nearly identical
• both have boost/turbo modes. Both need a program box of some kind. R1 wireless adapter is SLIGHTLY cheaper but hobbywing also has a program box thats cheaper.
• turn limit seems tricky. WITHOUT a fan, the R1 is rated for 13.5 but with a fan it can go as low as 3.5. Hobbywing list just 10.5
• Hobbywing has built in capacitor with reverse polarity protection. R1 has an external capacitor and can be "upgraded" with a reverse polarity BEC or actually upgraded to a higher rated capacitor. Both look like they come presoldered with 12 awg wire (not 100% sure)
• Both seem to have data logging. Both seem to have the standard brake/acceleration punch levels, PWM, curves, etc along with non-blinky boost/turbo modes. Also both seem to have preset values for on-road, off road cars.

Hobbywing IMO and GENERALLY seem to be more "plug and play". You wire it up and your ready to go. I like with the R1 you can change the capacitor pack. I have a justock hobbywing (its NOT a fair comparison, i know) and it kinda makes me wonder if I feel a start delay from either a capacitor, amp limit, or something else. I drive it in a class I can't really be competitive in, but differences from my R1 esc to the justock makes me want to buy another R1 stock esc.

My favorite budget esc is orca bp1001. The only downside is that you have to solder it yourself.

Thank you. Both are 14awg wires. It also looks like the R1 Wurks have external switches.

Is it worth upgrading the switch with the mount?

I couldn’t find much about R1WURKS 30 Grams Mega ESC Cap 2S 040016. I’m curious if it’s worth swapping out the existing capacitor. I know adding or using a larger capacitor enhances the brakes on the Hobbywing. Curious if it’s the same on the R1 Super Stock Digital 3

That huge mega capacitor is intended for drag racing.

Just have a read on this, and in my races the biggest diference that i had and the lap times prove it, was a radio change, was using a spektrum dx3s and now a flysky nobel4.

regarding ESC I get the feeling after reading this that they are all the same. but corrently i´m racing with a gm genius 120 #97168, and I´m on the marking and looking for a ORCA oe1 mk2 or OE101. after i pool the triger on one of this i will post my results, time wise and visual feeling.

for now the oe1mk2 is growing on me because of most amps on bec, and the brakes on paper seems stronger with 100hz would like to see someone hard break, just to see if it does flat spots on the tires

Oh no. No no no. ESC's are quite different from one another. Sure, manufacturers will tell you theirs are the best, theirs are the same as everyone elses, etc.

They're blowing smoke up our backsides.

I compared an ORCA totem ESC to an XR10 ESC on my dyno. I had to run the test three times to be sure of what I was seeing. The Totem holds you back by a wide margin. It's better suited to a TT02, F1 or a GT12 car. It should never be run in a touring stock car unless you like to lose.

Can you elaborate on the Totem, how is is worse?

i had seen in an esc control race with a limited gear ratio, the local sponsored driver was running the same esc than some invited driver. the invited driver was being passed significantly in the main straight for several runs of battery. and he just publicly asked why his "thing" is so slow,....and everyone had the same query.
after that, the local guy changed to another one from the pool of control esc, then he was no way following the invited driver.
that was not a "H" brand,....