6% less torque and 7% less total horsepower to the shaft compared to the XR10 pro.

There's something wrong with your data. The Tekin prodices more torque from 7000 to 18000 rpm. This means that through the Tekin is producing more power as power is basically torque times speed.

Yep. Their curve is basically just one or 2 datapoints at the low RPM range showing that there's insufficient sampling going on, so you basically need to ignore the peaks in that range. And in the range where there is a lot of data points, the Totem has a bit more torque on average but their power plot at the same RPM doesn't match.

Edit: to throw some numbers in, at 10k RPM the HW has around 7.5 oz.in of torque and the Totem has 7.8 or so. In HP that's 0.07 and 0.08 respectively. However the power graph above shows 0.074 and 0.07 respectively, inflating the HW number and deflating the Totem number.

There is no tekin in my data.

And yes, the XR10 is producing more power over the Totem

The second graph contradicts that

is it possible to you test the orca oe1 /wle/mk2 against hw x10?

Yes, it's possible. I don't have one on-hand, though. You're free to send me one if you'd like.

Trying out the R1 ESC for a couple new builds for fun and to mix things up. The footprint is deceiving larger than the HW XR10 Pro. The external switch doesn’t help especially if you get the mount.

The R1 Wurks Digital-3 Mod and Super Stock ESC motor wire terminals are CBA from left to right. The ESCs have a setting for “Motor-Wiring” with the default of ABC. The alternate setting is CBA. The manual warns that incorrect setting can cause permanent damage to the ESC.

My confusion is the ESC reads CBA from left to right. So I assume the intention of the setting is to swap A and C soldered to the motor. Not necessarily the order displayed on the case. Am I understanding correctly?

Also, when do I need to change this setting? Is it before soldering the motor connection? When does damage occur if incorrectly set? Is it only if throttle is applied?

The ABC setting means connect A on the ESC to A on the motor. Use CBA when you want to connect C on the ESC to A on the motor for neater wire installs.

Completed the swap out of my electronics from Hobbywing to R1 Wurks. I will say the R1 Wurks wireless module and app function much better than Hobbywing. I don’t experience the connectivity issues with R1 that I always get with HW. I honestly can’t tell the difference between the R1 MOD and Super Stock ESCs. The MOD ESC seems identical except with larger capacitor, 12AWG wires, and a fan in the box. Am I wrong?

I find the R1 connectivity annoying at you have to use WiFi and Android complains when connecting to a WiFI access point that doesn't provide internet.

You're pretty much correct between the stock and mod ESCs, physically they're pretty much the same but the stock one has a weaker array of FETs internally which affects the motor turn limit.

I tried a HW pro stock and a Tekin RS both in blinky/zero timing mode in 17.5 2wd buggy. The Tekin worked a lot better (for me) is there any explanation for that? I wouldn’t assume the 80amp limit of the pro stock would be a determining factor but perhaps I’m wrong? Otherwise all I could think of is the wire gauge being different, and the RS doesn’t have a fan on it for whatever that’s worth.

Depends on what you mean by "worked better" and what settings you used were.

Basically that should not be possible with blinky but I believe some settings are still possible.