Wasn't really wanting to use that function since I've never been wild about throttle being one of the conditionals, but I went into the setting for Throttle Start Timer and realized I could set it to negative values.

ie, -100% (full brake), meaning that the countdown timer starts immediately, regardless of throttle position, no start button needed. Functionally, just what I was looking for! Thank you!

I finally got the blue cage/frame (see my revenge posts) installed on the NB4+.




I can't speak for anyone else...but, at least to me, the blue looks MUCH better than the usual four color options (black, red, gold, & purple) that are available from all the other sellers.

That being said, I did discover something 'interesting' when installing it. For those who've already purchased/installed these on their Noble radios, you probably already understand. Some of the sellers install thin neoprene/rubber pads on the insides of the pieces, and others don't (I'm guessing the OEMs don't install them at their factories). For anyone having received a cage/frame without the pads (as mine came), when you go to install it, you'll quickly discover the cage/frame "moves" up/down/left/right/forward/backward, as there is approximately 1.5mm of play in all directions...thus, the very reason some sellers install the pads. If you install thin neoprene/rubber pads to the inside face of all four pieces, this will fix the problem.

I forgot to take photos...but, what I used was the thin (0.98mm w/ both sides of the adhesive cover paper still in place) "electronics mounting" strips that come with many RC kits. I cut multiple pieces (2 for each side piece, 4 (2 side, top, & bottom) for the front piece, and 4 (2 'upper' & 2 'lower') for the rear piece), peeled off one side of the paper, and stuck them in the 'appropriate' places on each piece. In installing the cage/frame on the radio display housing, the pads compress just slightly...enough that they provide just a minor amount of "resistance" to the 4 screws, which will help prevent the screws from backing out (ie. you won't need to use threadlock on the screws). I purposely didn't peel the paper off the other side of the pads, to make removing the cage/frame easier...but, if you want to make 100% certain it doesn't move, you can always peel off the paper, which will adhere the pieces to the display housing.

Looking to replace my radio with a NB4+. Can you adjust HobbyWing ESC settings via the radio? For instance if you want to change the ESC turbo setting or drag brake. Does the NB4+ have the capability to do that from the drivers stand? Not talking about endpoints. But actually changing the ESC programming from the radio.

Is that possible with other transmitters?

Not that I am aware of. I was told that new flysky had the capability to do that. I wasn’t able to find any confirmation. Being everything is going to Bluetooth, I could see how it could possibly happen. Just wasn’t aware of that technology available as of yet.

To the best of my knowledge, there aren't ANY radios that can change ESC programming. To program ESCs, you need an ESC programmer (be it a programming card, or a USB connector for PCs) specific to that ESC brand, as each ESC brand has is own programming card/USB adapters (some brands, such as HW, can even have multiple cards, where each card can only be used with specific ESC models).

Replied to wrong post…

Yes, but only with a certain Hobbywing ESC

Well, I'll be...call me impressed. I'm not the one who asked...but, definitely, thank you for that info (I haven't gotten around to reading the NB4+ manual). Tho, I see why, as that one specific ESC is classified as an i-BUS2 device (probably a chip on the circuit board). The 'down side is, it's a crawler-specific ESC.

I think the Sanwa esc and radio could do some of the parameters. I'm pretty sure its a big risk to have a radio/esc that can do this as it may get banned in racing org by possibly allowing cheating.

Ok…so the person that told me the flysky would adjust the ESC settings wasn’t wrong. However it appears only to work with a crawler ESC. After he told me it would change the settings, I was wondering if that is why some top guys were suddenly changing brands.

Got the base battery pack from this link: https://skyvault.shop/collections/nb...from-march-1st

New one is USB-C (thank gawd, micro usb is such trash) and it snapped right on and everything is peachy.

Just a note for anyone that might need to buy that replacement battery....shipping took about 5 weeks for it to get here in the US.

Any reason you didn't buy the Pro one? Wireless charging is awesome, I just set my controller down and it charges. Don't have to worry about cables.

As 'nice' as the Pro is over the MB4/NB4+, the price difference does not make it worth it. Everyone knows the Pro includes extra accessories...but, the case & wireless charging (the only "real" difference) is NOT worth paying twice the price. Also, just in case you're not aware, in addition to wireless charging being slower than plug-in charging, wireless charging also shortens the overall life of the battery being charged (unless from within that device's settings, you have the ability to "slow down" the wireless charging, such as may Android phones can do). Next time you wirelessly charge a device, feel it from the back, and you'll notice how 'warm' it is. Then, the next time you charge that same device by plugging it in, feel it from the back, and you'll notice it's considerably cooler. That heat from charging wirelessly is what plays into shortening that device's overall battery life.

I meant, why didn't you buy the wireless battery bottom of the Pro. Not the entire remote. I agree, I wouldn't pay twice the price, but I paid $160 for my Pro so was a no brainer. As far as heat degradation from wireless charging, seems like a chicken little worry to me. I've charged my phone wirelessly every day for 4 years and the battery health is at 85%. I do not plan on keeping this transmitter for 8+ years or whatever it would take to notice any bit of battery degradation over an above plugging it in.