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Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Tamiya TT02 Thread

Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Old 04-03-2024 | 02:40 PM
  #3811  
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Originally Posted by LordSchnert
That looks much better already! Definitely lower the front to at least be the same as the rear, in general you want to be as low as allowed, and raise the rear a little for better turn-in. Also.. Tamiya makes lots of different tires.. they don’t necessarily all work equally well on a track.. if it’s open tires where you race.. see what the locals are using.. it will make a big difference..
Thanks for the thoughts.

At the local track we are running spec PowerHobby brand tires........it is what it is....BUT they allow any PowerHobby tire so that allows for some experimentation. I also can sauce and the first time out I didn't have any of that ready to go......I do now :-)

I can play around with the pre-load spacers to get the rear up a touch but possibly keep the same level of slight offset to stay close to the 50/50 cross balance.
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Old 04-06-2024 | 09:14 AM
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Since I cannot get to the track for a few days I have been setting up both the TT-02 and my TLR this past week. I did some additional work on the TT-02 as while I was able to get the balance better a couple days ago, I was still front-high vs. the rear. So I had to swap back the rear shock mounting positions to get back to where the rear is slightly higher. I was able to swap out rear springs to a.lighter set, which allowed a little more sag in the rear and I think that will also help the rear end hook up a bit better under power.

After the spring and shock position swap I then rebalanced things with pre-load......and here is where I landed and where I will start next week's race night for setup.


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Old 04-06-2024 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by River19
Since I cannot get to the track for a few days I have been setting up both the TT-02 and my TLR this past week. I did some additional work on the TT-02 as while I was able to get the balance better a couple days ago, I was still front-high vs. the rear. So I had to swap back the rear shock mounting positions to get back to where the rear is slightly higher. I was able to swap out rear springs to a.lighter set, which allowed a little more sag in the rear and I think that will also help the rear end hook up a bit better under power.

After the spring and shock position swap I then rebalanced things with pre-load......and here is where I landed and where I will start next week's race night for setup.


I know that feeling.. you been tinkering.. not being able to get out and try it on the track… the suspense.. definitely let us know how it goes when you finally get it out to the track🖖
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Old 04-07-2024 | 05:06 PM
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Hey guys, I'm looking into buying a TT-02 car. I'm presently in Orlando and I'm looking for an indoor on road track to start at. Any ideas as to where I can check out and get a feel of the place? This is the 1st car I've bought in about 30yrs. I raced Tamiya when I was kid and now that I have time once again I'm wanting to get back into rc racing.
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Old 04-07-2024 | 05:16 PM
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Not familiar about the tracks in Orlando, but this is a good start https://www.rctech.net/forum/florida-racing-54/

Theres nothing wrong with the TT02 but that might not be the best racing setup for your local track. Check out the locals first then get your car choice after that.
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Old 04-11-2024 | 07:17 PM
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Well.......got the updated TT-02 out on the track this evening and it was an adventure.......I changed so many things over the past 2 weeks that it needed a lot of dialing in., I went from no grip and sliding around to too much grip and traction rolling carrying speed into corners. That was all my fault as I sauced the tires based on advice and I really didn't need it. In fact I finally got my crap together for the "Main" (small classes and fun informal Thurs night racing) and was able to get some consistent laps in. Gluing up the side wall on the front tires helped a ton.

The upgraded Tamiya aluminum and plastic servo saver was a wild piece of crap waste of money and failed during practice laps, went with a straight up servo arm........

Once I got the tire and traction situation dialed in the car was decent.......I need to leave it alone for a bit and just start with this setup next week. But the TT-02 is stupid basher fun......
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Old 04-11-2024 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by River19
Well.......got the updated TT-02 out on the track this evening and it was an adventure.......I changed so many things over the past 2 weeks that it needed a lot of dialing in., I went from no grip and sliding around to too much grip and traction rolling carrying speed into corners. That was all my fault as I sauced the tires based on advice and I really didn't need it. In fact I finally got my crap together for the "Main" (small classes and fun informal Thurs night racing) and was able to get some consistent laps in. Gluing up the side wall on the front tires helped a ton.

The upgraded Tamiya aluminum and plastic servo saver was a wild piece of crap waste of money and failed during practice laps, went with a straight up servo arm........

Once I got the tire and traction situation dialed in the car was decent.......I need to leave it alone for a bit and just start with this setup next week. But the TT-02 is stupid basher fun......
Once you get to the point where you know that the car is fundamentally sound, you definitely want to use small incremental changes to dial it in for track and track conditions.. until you get to that point.. big changes will show you how it’s affecting the car much better.. I like to overdo changes.. see what the effect is.. then dial it back..
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Old 04-12-2024 | 03:39 AM
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Originally Posted by LordSchnert
Once you get to the point where you know that the car is fundamentally sound, you definitely want to use small incremental changes to dial it in for track and track conditions.. until you get to that point.. big changes will show you how it’s affecting the car much better.. I like to overdo changes.. see what the effect is.. then dial it back..
I do the same thing as far as changes, and I am normally a firm believer in the scientific method of making one change at a time, and in this case all that went out the window as I changed so much over the past couple weeks. I wouldn't say the car is dialed in still but it is no longer totally off the reservation as it was earlier in the night.

I had to stiffen up the front shocks a ton as the new tires were so grippy. I may pull the spacers (quick track side adjustment) and move to stiffer springs in combo with glued sidewalls and start there.

All good......right now with the TT-02 I don't "drive" it.....I "guide" it around the track.

Thanks for the tips and support.
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Old 04-12-2024 | 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by River19
.
The upgraded Tamiya aluminum and plastic servo saver was a wild piece of crap waste of money and failed during practice laps, went with a straight up servo arm........
Good thinking, I try to tell people to use a basic servo arm and spend the extra $15 on a good servo. It's a brushed on-roader with the wheels tucked in and behind a giant foam bumper, you're probably not going to break your servo.
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Old 04-12-2024 | 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Revolter22
Good thinking, I try to tell people to use a basic servo arm and spend the extra $15 on a good servo. It's a brushed on-roader with the wheels tucked in and behind a giant foam bumper, you're probably not going to break your servo.
And if I do......it's $60.....not the end of the world. I come from a world of racing Mountain Bikes, a tire is $80-100 lol.......with RC you gotta pay to play and if you do play, you will break things, it is all part of the gig.

The only thing that kinda sucks is that if I race a TCS (or Box stock) event I am "gray" on whether the straight servo arm is legal as it is not "built to kit specs" but their kit spec is crap.......IMHO
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Old 04-12-2024 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by River19
And if I do......it's $60.....not the end of the world. I come from a world of racing Mountain Bikes, a tire is $80-100 lol.......with RC you gotta pay to play and if you do play, you will break things, it is all part of the gig.

The only thing that kinda sucks is that if I race a TCS (or Box stock) event I am "gray" on whether the straight servo arm is legal as it is not "built to kit specs" but their kit spec is crap.......IMHO
Tamiya do sell direct mount servo horns (42248/42249) that would be fully legal. Personally I use the High Torque Servo Saver with a strategically placed drop of CA glue, rock solid during normal use.. but it will break loose on a big hit and still do its job..
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Old 04-12-2024 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by LordSchnert
Tamiya do sell direct mount servo horns (42248/42249) that would be fully legal. Personally I use the High Torque Servo Saver with a strategically placed drop of CA glue, rock solid during normal use.. but it will break loose on a big hit and still do its job..
Good call on the Tamiya servo horn, thanks, didn't see that previously.

I have their 54752 package and that servo saver is the wild POS that failed after a few laps.......but I also did not put any glue on it.

While I'm not sure if I will do a TCS this year as right now I am struggling locally still, but the car is getting "better" and who knows in a couple weeks of racing I can feel confident with it enough to at least go bang around with everyone else.


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Old 04-12-2024 | 05:10 PM
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Needed to drill some holes in these RW gears because only 2 lined up, they would have held just fine but that's not as fun as making a tool to add 2 more!




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Old 04-16-2024 | 01:45 PM
  #3824  
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For peeps who purchased the TA02r kit. I noticed the gear diffs did not come with any type of seal gasket. I wonder if this works just fine without leaking oil or are they designed for use with grease only.
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Old 04-16-2024 | 02:06 PM
  #3825  
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Originally Posted by izzyracer
For peeps who purchased the TA02r kit. I noticed the gear diffs did not come with any type of seal gasket. I wonder if this works just fine without leaking oil or are they designed for use with grease only.
I believe they're meant for grease only, but many have said they've used extremely heavy diff oils with success. I imagine it probably requires frequent servicing. The sealable diffs are pretty inexpensive for the TT02. And if you have the R, you're already set with steel dog bones.
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