Team Associated RC8B4
#62
Dumb question, but what tires are you running on your setup? I was considering the AKA I beam tires medium/long wear. I might be sacrificing grip but looking for longer tire life.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/aka-ibe...78813?v=450465
https://www.amainhobbies.com/aka-ibe...78813?v=450465
#65
Thread Starter
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 89
From: Elche, Spain
Suposing correct tires and suspension setup (keep in mind harder springs makes the car less cornering), several thing to test:
- Thinner front sway bar.
- Thinner front diff oil.
- If the car has understeering when mantaining throttle inside an open corner, try MORE caster (move rearward front upper arm)
- If the car has understeering the first moment is entering corner, try LESS caster (move forward front upper arm)
More things to test, like ackerman or rear-end rotation. But first try steps above.
REMEMBER: each change has a positive effect, and a negative side... that's the difficult part: find balance.
- Thinner front sway bar.
- Thinner front diff oil.
- If the car has understeering when mantaining throttle inside an open corner, try MORE caster (move rearward front upper arm)
- If the car has understeering the first moment is entering corner, try LESS caster (move forward front upper arm)
More things to test, like ackerman or rear-end rotation. But first try steps above.
REMEMBER: each change has a positive effect, and a negative side... that's the difficult part: find balance.
#66
This car, generally speaking, is pretty numb in the front so most of the adjustments are done with the rear of the car.
Look forward to helping you out!
#67
Two things that help me adjust the initial turn in on this car has been caster and ackermann. With the caster it was simply just standing the upright up more, instead of laying it back. So putting the adjustment spacers behind the upper arm. With the ackermann it was making the inside wheels open up more. So moving the link towards the rear on the ackermann plate.
This increased the initial turn in off-throttle into the corner. Normally on the brakes as well. You could also put more rear brake in as well.
These are some the first things I play with when I just need a little bit more. Especially if I like the diff setup everywhere else.
This increased the initial turn in off-throttle into the corner. Normally on the brakes as well. You could also put more rear brake in as well.
These are some the first things I play with when I just need a little bit more. Especially if I like the diff setup everywhere else.
#68
You have two options aside from the kit (Stiff) bladders,
Most opt for the emulsion-style bladders
They do sell a softer option of a bladder that i would consider soft.
I personally opt for the emulsion style 90% of the time, bladder style the track would have to be really smooth for me to consider either the stiff or the soft options.
Hope this helps,
Most opt for the emulsion-style bladders
They do sell a softer option of a bladder that i would consider soft.
I personally opt for the emulsion style 90% of the time, bladder style the track would have to be really smooth for me to consider either the stiff or the soft options.
Hope this helps,
#69
Emulsion shocks mix the oil and air together whereas blades shocks have a bladder that separates the oil from the air. The shock caps for emulsion have a bleed screw on the cap whereas the bladder doesn’t.
#70
The emulsion style is less likely to "pack up" which makes it more preferable for tracks with bumps and things like that. They also feel a little less edgy in my opinion.
Down side to them is you are adding air into the system which can makes them less then consistent as they are very much at mother nature's mercy (as it heats up the air expands) so you need to make sure you're bleeding them throughout the day.
Bladder style shocks are a little more consistent run to run (as long as you have them air free) but it's really hard (Or at least for me) to get them to be "Dead" or zero rebound.
The caps that come on all B4's allows you to choose Emulsion or bladder style. Only thing you need is to either use the emulsion seal or the bladder.
To bleed the emulsion style undo the screw in the cap hold the shock at 45° and move the piston up slowly count to five and put the screw back in.
For the bladder (This is how i do it) fill the shock up and slowly start tightening the cap until you feel the bladder come in contact with the top of the shock. Back off the cap 1/4 turn and slowly compress the shock. Once fully compressed tighten the cap. (Make sure you have the bleeder screw in)
I believe youtube has a couple videos about bleeding shocks, onroad shock videos work well for shocks with bladders.
Hope this helps you,
#75
Can't wait! 
Good video. I plan too. The engine I bought is already broken in(so they claim, but I still plan to run 3-4 tanks through it to be sure.
Thx!

Thx!
Last edited by nitrous36; 10-20-2025 at 02:57 PM.



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