Tekno EB410.2 Thread
#392
Tech Rookie
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 5
Hello, the low frequency springs will get you where you need to be right height wise. They provide a lot more grip but I only recommend them for clay tracks mostly outdoor. I could not comment on their use for carpet or Astro. I use the green front and the pink rear or the pink front and the pink rear with 30 or 27.5 in the front and 25 or 20 in the rear with the stock Pistons I race on an outdoor clay track with lots of big jumps in the car is very in the track and plush. I did put team Thornhill red bump stops in the rear to keep the chassis from slapping so hard if I don't land the jumps right and they work incredibly well.
#393
What options do I have for a carbon front tower? Just finishing up the build and put the Team Joey Racing rear carbon tower for more camber link adjustment. Want a matching front but can’t seem to find one. Thanks in advance.
Chris
Chris
#395
Tech Initiate
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 29
From: Kesgrave, Suffolk, UK
I am giving some serious consideration into getting one of these, i am UK based which obviously means astro, can you guys give me a bit of a heads up with pros and cons, is a slipper an absolute must etc? Thanks in advance for any advice.
#396
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 72
Get the heavy roll bars F&R, stiffer springs, centre diff works great (usually filled with 500k), low ride height (12-13mm, even if bumpy), i liked running no rear chassis brace (but risking chassis tweak doing so). It may not carry the most cornering speed but can be really easy to drive, handles bumps well and is at easily as durable as anything else out there.
#398
Tech Initiate
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 32
#399
Tech Initiate
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 32
My eb410.2 runs on a dirt track. Well, it's practically a sandbox. Drives well, no issues there. But the battery... So much sand gets around the battery that it takes several minutes to remove it every time, using tools to pry it loose, empty sand, pry again, shimmy, pry, etc.... This is a huge PITA, but if the battery started to melt down it would take the whole car with it since there is no way to remove it quickly.
Are there any alternative battery hold-down systems? I am using a Gens Ace Redline 5100 shorty pack. I am even considering going with a 22x-4 or RC10 B74.1d, and that's just silly, no?
Thanks!
Are there any alternative battery hold-down systems? I am using a Gens Ace Redline 5100 shorty pack. I am even considering going with a 22x-4 or RC10 B74.1d, and that's just silly, no?
Thanks!
#401
My eb410.2 runs on a dirt track. Well, it's practically a sandbox. Drives well, no issues there. But the battery... So much sand gets around the battery that it takes several minutes to remove it every time, using tools to pry it loose, empty sand, pry again, shimmy, pry, etc.... This is a huge PITA, but if the battery started to melt down it would take the whole car with it since there is no way to remove it quickly.
Are there any alternative battery hold-down systems? I am using a Gens Ace Redline 5100 shorty pack. I am even considering going with a 22x-4 or RC10 B74.1d, and that's just silly, no?
Thanks!
Are there any alternative battery hold-down systems? I am using a Gens Ace Redline 5100 shorty pack. I am even considering going with a 22x-4 or RC10 B74.1d, and that's just silly, no?
Thanks!
Also the battery makes a difference - the HV shorties from RCJuice are easier to get out than the Non-HV shorties that they sell.
I found the tool that Traxxas includes with many of its cars for assembling the joint in the slider axles works well to pry the battery out. It is just a very thin, very hard piece of steel.
#402
Tech Initiate
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 32
I have been using Tesa tape, its a fabric tape used in VW/Audi wire looms. It lasts a couple battery swaps, not too bad.
#403
Tech Initiate
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 32
I had the same issue - I machined the rear battery mount to take a little material off it and the batteries are easier to get out.
Also the battery makes a difference - the HV shorties from RCJuice are easier to get out than the Non-HV shorties that they sell.
I found the tool that Traxxas includes with many of its cars for assembling the joint in the slider axles works well to pry the battery out. It is just a very thin, very hard piece of steel.
Also the battery makes a difference - the HV shorties from RCJuice are easier to get out than the Non-HV shorties that they sell.
I found the tool that Traxxas includes with many of its cars for assembling the joint in the slider axles works well to pry the battery out. It is just a very thin, very hard piece of steel.
#404
Tech Addict
iTrader: (36)
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 516
Are there any rumors of updates to this chassis any time soon? Looking at one for the indoor clay track. I have a sct410.3 and really like the build style (large parts) and overall rugged quality of the tekno stuff. I had a ET410.2 for the outdoor season but that class didn't translate well to the indoor track.
I don't need latest and greatest and I like a car that is easy to drive. I like to race as a form of relaxation and socialization and don't ever really need to get on the podium to have fun. But I want cars that finish and don't drive on the ragged edge of traction.
I've owned the current 22x4 and a previous 74.1 as well.
I don't need latest and greatest and I like a car that is easy to drive. I like to race as a form of relaxation and socialization and don't ever really need to get on the podium to have fun. But I want cars that finish and don't drive on the ragged edge of traction.
I've owned the current 22x4 and a previous 74.1 as well.



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