Pretty much disagree with all that, there are about 3 other things that I'd fix first before any of those.

What things do you think warrant changing for typical bashers now in 22?

And would these apply to the 22 version XTR, the older version or both?

You run the trucks in your videos fairly hard but with good driver input.

The mods you recommend would be interesting, because people reading your list would do so seeing the exact nature and degree of bashing you put all your trucks through - and then compare.

Even back in the day, I rarely jumped my Savage higher than about 12 feet and only when there were appropriate down ramps. The majority of the time it was run on a track against other Mt's - so definitely tame compared to the bashing vids you see now.

My use with the XTR will be purely for blasting around over bumpy, grassy areas with natural mounds to launch off. With lots of added mechanical empathy!

Back in the day....

Im surprised you would say that because in your own videos you broke the turnbuckle ends and shock stand-offs almost immediately and you even recommended upgrades for them.

In fact the only thing you haven't mentioned is the chassis, and that is because it is fairly strong stock out of the box. And yes it definitely is a strong chassis, but remember that people still buy M2C Chassis for their Kraton EXBs for a reason.

5mm 7075 shock towers are plenty strong enough, you don't really need to ever change those. However because the chassis is just 3mm thick and it is so long and so much leverage is applied at each end that with harder bashing, you definitely WILL eventually bend it, like how people bend the 3mm 7075 Kraton EXB chassis all the time.

Well this is annoying. Im about ready to buy a Kronos XTR 2022 at this point but its sold out everywhere now.

I didn't recommend upgrades for the standoffs or EXB rod ends. I'm running stock standoffs and TC plastic links, not even metal turnbuckles.

7075 Ackermann bar, rear T2T brace mount, rear shocks, plastic rear links, that's what I changed in my truck. I say that in my review video.

I've had no trouble with my XTR turn buckles. That being said, I did have a weird positive camber on the front right wheel as it was out of the box.

Addressing the issue wasn't as simple as you'd expect. It wasn't possible screwing the top pillow ball further in - I had to un-screw the bottom pillow ball further out, which necessitated using an additional spacer.

This is odd, because now I have the car setup with asymmetric spacers on the bottom Pillow balls, to get symmetrical 1° negative camber at the front.

This has to be some sort of moulding issue, maybe?

Edit: It was the front right wheel, not the front left.

Oh whoops, I thought this was your video but its not, I just went back to it and its by a channel called "Do RC". As you can see though, all the flaws are small ones, nothing major.

I thought it was you because he has a similar voice and similar style of videos as well. Strange how that works out lol 😆

Horatio Ya its definitely a mold problem, and a 1 in a million one. Ull find that this almost never happens to anyone on any RC. Clearly there was a manufacturing defect with the suspension A-Arm. Luckily it wasn't a major one that required replacing the part, all you needed was some adjustment.

wallacengineeri Yeah, I suppose it's comparitively minor and pretty rare with modern composite / injection moulding.

It sure doesn't take anything away from the overall package though.

Does anyone else agree that this truck handles exceptionally well for a basher? I'm super impressed with it!

I knew from the second I saw the layout and heard about the fact that it uses 1/8 Race Buggy internal gear ratios that it was going to handle like a dream.

The Arrma Kraton EXB is set up more like a monster truck that just happens to be longer and uses a Truggy chassis layout, where as the Kronos XTR is set up exactly like a serious race Truggy, very similar setup and layout to a Tekno ET48 2.0 just with mounting areas repositioned, more bracing, and large MT tires to turn it into a basher.

Again I don’t really agree with these assessments. Much more likely you have a bent hinge pin, broken arm, broken diff case, bent A/B block, or upper pin brace, etc.

Well he said it was like this out of the box, I.E. Brand new - he hasn't driven the truck yet. If so, it would have been a defect for sure. However I agree if it has been driven and then came back with positive camber, then theres a good chance Horatio bent something and caused it to happen.

Straight up - I've been doing this a long time and it had positive camber on the one side.

Nothing was bent - it hadn't been run - it was BNIB from a retailer on black Friday.

It's far less likely to be a machined alloy part issue than a moulded part issue. Even with modern injection moulding techniques and engineering plastics, there are sometimes issues with the way the parts cool that result in poorer tolerance.

A really good example of this are the crappy plastic spurs that they peddle for the Baja 5B. Some of them are out of round or even conical.

Anyway, you don't have to take my word for it - check the pictures on page 1.

It literally arrived like it and just like I said, could only be remedied by bringing the lower pillow ball out, which isn't ideal for obvious reasons..

Bang on! I hadn't run the truck. I was actually still shopping for electronics when I remedied it.

Funilly enough though, it was actually a video by Razor that made me pull the trigger on the Corally stuff. So Kudos to Razor for that.

After all the talk about pillow balls popping out and dodgy hubs, the last thing I wanted to have to do was back the lower pillow ball out and find another washer/spacer.

As it turns out, it's totally fine. It's not like I'm going to be doing 20 foot high, triple backflips off huge jumps like Razor.

OK thanks, I'll admit I didn't even know what your issue was because I didn't read the first few posts and then 4 pages later you guys were talking about bad arm molds causing camber out.

My Punisher had horrible positive camber in the rear with the plastic links (and I have them on the Kronos XTR now with the same links), but they're like 2ish degrees rather than what looks like 0.5 or less on yours. The plastic links on mine were almost assuredly a design/manufacturing problem because they're close to 2-3 mm too long. To me, yours looks more like in the range of normal tolerance and I wouldn't even think twice about it. I honestly wasn't even sure which side had camber out until I looked at several pictures. I mean, a tiny bit more sag on one side due to shock springs or droop screws or whatever will cause unequal camber on each side due to camber gain. The arms start sagging/bowing over time as well, which can/will cause this too.

Anyway, glad it's working for you.

Right, I hear you.

The fixed camber links are not things I've had much experience with, bar an HPI RS4 Subaru. I suppose if they're supplied too long you get stuck with unhelpful positive camber.

On the Kronos XTR, as it's a Pillow Ball arrangement, with an upper wishbone, there's only a few things it can be. It's likely the hub or one of the wishbones.

Like you said, it's only a minor issue but I'm fussy!