USGT is FIRE...come get some...

https://www.rcsignup.com/events/disp...t.cfm?ID=11362

Found these a 3-4 years ago and have run them ever since, solid wheel and it looks great too!

Can someone show me picture of the proper Zooracing Bowah rear wing cutting line for USGT?

The bottom scribe line in the wing corresponds to the legal ("proper") dimension (10mm) spelled out in the USGT rules.
I have a couple wings, so I cut this one to the top line just for b'dass looks
Post #10974 of this thread has a body with a wing cut on the legal scribe line. USGT

10mm max height... Side dams below upper edge only.

i know i used zero glue at IC and Snowbirds, i dont use any at Soda on a weekly basis either. On very high grip situation like apex or 180, u may have to glue. but in my exerience on an average grip black carpet track no glue is it on a stick. Even in VTA at IC, i had zero glue.

do you check your droop using the downstop method or the over ride height method? i ask because i see a lot of guys on here asking about downstop numbers, and in VTA and USGT with the tires puffing in diameter and size, the downstop number and droop will change as u have to lower the suspension to keep ride height. so unless your tires are exactly the same size as the person who made the setup sheet, the downstop number will not be the same.if you are using the downstop meathod, your droop will constantly change as u swap tires around and readjust ride height. which is why a lot of us have went to the over ride height ( ORH ) method.

so is it unusual when doing this method (the over ride height), for downstop numbers to be quite a bit higher than most setup sheets suggest?

also, most setup sheets seem to have a downstop number in the back that is less than in the front.

in measuring 2mm over ride height in the back, and 1.5mm over ride height in the front, is it expected that the rear downstop number might be higher than the front, if im making any sence?

thirtydaZe
if you put the car on droop blocks (+10mm) and use a droop gauge, a higher value means less physical droop of the suspension arm (you are loosing range of arm motion).
conversely, if you measure droop from ride height, you need to use a ride height gauge, and a higher value will mean more physical droop (you are gaining range of arm motion as the suspension is unloaded).
basically, a higher droop value via droop gauge (for example 6 vs 4) means less droop over ride height.

I understand all that, i'm actually trying to compensate for some vta tires that are getting blown out.
I'm curious how far you can go with the downstop, and what the general rule of thumb is when i comes to droop, front vs rear.
Most setups i see have more droop in the rear, is it unusual or frowned upon to be in a situation where there is more droop in the front?

I just built a Xray X4 to run in USGT. I've been running VTA and Eurotruck for the past year and a half and wanted to try a faster class. Now that the car is built, the tires just do not have any grip on the black carpet. They are new Gravity spec tires for the class.

Is there any way to get them broken in or to grip better? At practice, the car handled like I was driving on frozen ice. I did hit them with some brake cleaner when I got home from the last track practice day. They seem like they grip the surface of my workbench better after being wiped down with brake cleaner, but I have yet to try them on the track. Everyone else is just telling me to run the car more using tire sauce. I just need to get them broken in more.

Any suggestions?

Typically the tires grip good on black carpet. They take a few laps to break in. Probably not cleaning them prior to running before contributed to it.

Recheck the car make sure nothing is binding up and recheck setup.

Flare65 Be sure to remove the mold line down the center of the tread area--completely. I removed most of it but with some still protruding it caused spin outs.

Just to check, are you using tire sauce?
Also, when I first started running usgt, I was told it helps to sand down the middle ridge off the tire. My routine is to clean the tires after coming off the track with break cleaner, then 5 mins before getting on the track, sauce the tires. Then when you set the car down, hold the car and hit the throttle a few times and run.

Clean and sauce (allow sauce to soak in for at least 10 mins for new tires). The first pack will be skittish but after a few packs, they start becoming a little more drivable. Clean and sauce and eventually the tires get in their prime not much long after.