I'm curious to find out how your experience is with this soldering station. I've been looking at it too since my hakko 936 clone just died.

Got tired of lugging my hakko 936 to the track so I got one of these coupled with a 15.00 24volt power supply from a local electronic shop and it kicks ass. Loads of power and comparable to my hakko in a small form factor. Can work with a 6s lipo too.


https://usa.banggood.com/Quicko-T12-...N&rmmds=search

The above route by Minh is a pretty good option, it uses knockoff Hakko T12/T15 direct-drive tip cartridges which deliver more heat than any of the 936 clones, or the ToAuto iron above. The use of an external power supply (usually a laptop one) eliminates the need for a sketchy Chinese internal one. The biggest downside is probably the tip-to-finger distance which will be double a hakko fm-2027. But for casual soldering, that's a killer deal.

For anyone curious, that setup will deliver more power than any of the TS100 rebrands and clones (1up and maclan) and be on par with the maxline unit.

Looking at spec 6S highly recommanded for big jauge wires
Input voltage Electricity Accessibility power
19V ≥2.38A 45W
20V ≥2.50A 50W
21V ≥2.63A 55W
22V ≥2.75A 61W
23V ≥2.88A 66W
24V ≥3.00A 72W

Used crappy irons for a few years. When I got into wrenching on real cars and doing electrical work 25 years ago, I got a Weller WLC-100 and thought it was a great upgrade from the $15 specials. It worked, but took forever to heat up and was easily exhausted. Fast forward 20 years and I finally got sick of it, and bought a Hakko FX-888D... I'm pissed I spent 20 years with the Weller and didn't go Hakko earlier. Heats up in seconds and solders anything I can throw at it (I've only tried up to 10ga though).

I also got the Arrowmax soldering iron kit for mobile pit use, and it is great. I did the 6S battery thing to run it at 24v for a while, but after forgetting it too many times, I tried it on 12v directly off my power supply, and it still solders surprisingly well - I have no problem soldering the most expensive motors with 12ga wiring with it. In and out in seconds, just like my FX-888D. I don't even bother with >12v anymore.

The two biggest lessons I've learned in 25 years of soldering:
1. When soldering heavy gauge wires, use the biggest tip you can fit in the workspace - it acts as a thermal reserve and keeps the tip hotter, longer during the soldering process.
2. Use a clean tip. In the pit, I use at least a wet sponge. At home, both wet sponge and brass wool at the ready.

That Weller WLC-100 model is not even a true Weller, that model is sold with many brand names.

After using a Weller WECP20 for about 30 years and having some issues lately I bought my self a new Weller WE1010 about an half year ago. This is like a late follow up model of the WECP20 but now with a 70W iron instead of a 50W. The tips are very cheap, easy to get and I did read do also fit the older WECP20, I directly bought some tips with it from small to the biggest and works awesome. I love the standby function when not using it for a certain time, it does save tips..

Uve had 1 of these in my stable since the 80's never had a failure . mobile smaller and has great heat ups.
master appliance ut 100
UT-100SIK Master Appliance Co | Soldering, Desoldering, Rework Products | DigiKey

I'm very amateur at soldering and only used it a dozen or so times, but I'm very pleased with it thus far. Prior to buying this ToAuto soldering station I've only used a very cheap $30 60W Weller soldering iron, so using this thing is much better and enjoyable. I haven't had it long enough or used it enough to speak for it's longevity, but so far I'd say it's worth the money. If you do get one do not use the spool of solder it comes with, it is 100% garbage. I picked up a 1 lb. spool of Kester "44" rosin core 63/37 solder, 0.040" thickness (part # 24-6337-0039) and it's fantastic.

I've used Weller for years, but I finally broke down and bought this:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/thermal...amain/p1201928

Works great; and works well with my non-rc applications as well.

Nice! It's a copy/clone of the metcal MX-500S (they basically admit it here), you save about $164 going the clone route. I didn't include it in my original recommendations since its out of most rc budgets but the TMT-9000s is a top tier system, uses the metcal 13.56 MHz induction tech. Its equivalent the second-best Metcal, which (the metcal version) was pretty much the standard of US industrial/professional soldering. Metcal is made in the US, Thermaltronics is made in Asia, make of that what you will. Basically, if you want maximum performance, you need to go Metcal/thermaltonics or JBC.

One of my preferred soldering stations for simple soldering tasks is the Weller WLC100. This soldering equipment is a lightweight, high-quality item for everyday applications. For ease of use, it actually includes a soldering station, copper ti, iron holder, and cleaning pad.

40 watt station is of no value to me in my rcing. 80 is good

I paid about $55-65 over a year ago for this, seems to be be what a lot of the RC soldering irons are based off of. I bought it from a local electronics store that sells good stuff. Works great and Im sure it'll last a long time. Soldered wires on ESCs, and all general rc stuff.

Even repaired my headphones and their tiny wires.