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Old 12-11-2020 | 05:30 AM
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Default Soldering station recommendation.

Recently getting back into RC it's time to search for a decent soldering station specifically for my RC stuff. I have some but minimal experience and knowledge with soldering. What watt iron is ideal for r/c, solder type, etc? What do you use or recommend? What's the price range I'll be looking at for a decent solder station? Please share any tips and advice. And I've always been a fan of the Weller brand for what its worth.
Thanks all.
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Old 12-11-2020 | 08:01 AM
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A link that will tell you all https://www.rctech.net/forum/search.php like:

Soldering suggestions!

hakko fx888 or Fx601

Soldering iron

Best soldering iron under $100

Soldering Iron Suggestion

soldering iron of choice
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Old 12-11-2020 | 10:43 AM
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Hakko has been the gold standard for awhile. Weller makes some decent ones, though. You don't need anything fancy (digital display, alarms, etc) unless you want to spend the money. At a minimum, get one with adjustable temperature dial. The more important part is buying good solder and flux. As long as you have the heat, that's really what makes a clean joint.
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Old 12-11-2020 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Roelof
A link that will tell you all https://www.rctech.net/forum/search.php like:
Indeed that link was my very first go-to. But not much help pops up when you (meaning myself) misspell what you're searching for. I wondered why hardly anything came up when attempting to use the search function, right before posting this thread. I just seen what I typed-in my last search. Dumbass of the day goes to this guy (me).
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Old 12-11-2020 | 12:54 PM
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I bought the trakpower one and it's ok. I wish I could get a wider tip for some of the things. Back in the day, I had an ungar race station which was phenomenal. While the trakpower isn't bad, if I had to do it over again, I would go a different route.
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Old 12-11-2020 | 01:25 PM
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ERSA RDS80
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Old 12-11-2020 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Silverbullet555
I bought the trakpower one and it's ok. I wish I could get a wider tip for some of the things. Back in the day, I had an ungar race station which was phenomenal. While the trakpower isn't bad, if I had to do it over again, I would go a different route.
it's a Hakko 936 clone. It'll take 936 tips.
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Old 12-11-2020 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by frewster
it's a Hakko 936 clone. It'll take 936 tips.
Good to know. Any adapter needed frewster ?
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Old 12-11-2020 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Silverbullet555
Good to know. Any adapter needed frewster ?
I doubt it. Looks identical to me. I've got a Yihua 936 clone and it takes Hakko tips just fine.
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Old 12-12-2020 | 08:11 AM
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I bought the KSGER T12 soldering station about 2 months ago and it’s been an absolute pleasure to use. Prior to that, I used a Hakko 936 clone which worked alright, but the T12 and my TS100 blow it out of the water. The big advantage with the T12 and TS100 is the direct drive tip technology, which makes the iron heat up super fast, and be extremely responsive with temperature drops, as the sensor is at the tip itself. This makes it great to use, as temperature drops are kept to a minimum, and the iron recovers extremely quickly.

The T12 is a Hakko FX-951 equivalent, so the Hakko also uses this new tip technology, rather than the old technology in the Hakko 936 and 888. Replacement tips are easy to find online, and they’re not much more expensive than the 936 or 888 tips. I seriously love both the T12 and TS100 irons, and they’ve made easy work of XT90 connectors and 12 gauge wires. I’ve no doubts they’ll do well with 10 and 8 gauge wires also.

My recommendation would be to skip the old-school irons (936 and 888 and such), and just get the KSGER T12. If you rather have portability, then the TS100 is a great choice, provided you have a reasonable power supply (I would say 19v minimum, 24v would be best). Do note that TS100 tips are more expensive, though people have claimed success with using T12 tips on them. I’ve never personally tried.

As for solder, I can’t say enough good things about Kester 60/40 solder, and it’s the one I’ve had the most success with. Please get good solder, as even the best soldering irons cannot overcome bad solder.
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Old 12-12-2020 | 08:26 AM
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I use a Yihua 939d+. Miles better than my old Stahl variable temp deal. Soldering stations have come a long way...
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Old 12-15-2020 | 07:32 PM
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Thanks for the replies all.
The local Home Depot has this gem in stock, Weller WLC200, 80 watt unit at $62. As basic as it gets. From what I'm seeing Weller, at least the WE1010NA and this WLC200, doesn't have much better reviews (percentage wise) than a lot of the "cheaper" stuff. The Hakko FX888d seems to be a better quality unit overall, but (like the Weller WE1010NA) at around double the price of a lot of the "cheaper" soldering stations. Looks like no matter which unit ya go with, they all have a small percentage of "duds" from the factory.



Last edited by R6cowboy; 12-15-2020 at 07:48 PM.
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Old 01-30-2021 | 07:20 AM
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After procrastinating for a month and a half, ended up getting this 80W ToAuto unit. Has great reviews and hopefully it works out well.



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Old 01-30-2021 | 02:46 PM
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My long soldering write-up.

Basic rules
- Don't leave your soldering iron on when not in use (kills the plating on the tips, could ruin your heating element)
- Always have solder on the tip (after wiping junk off, put new solder on immediately). Otherwise, the iron plating will oxidize
- Use quality solder (60/40 or 63/37 are both good). If you use 63/37, you won't get cold solder joints (it's eutectic). Trusted Brands (not all, just the ones I can think of): Kester (get the ones with 44 RA flux), Loctite (multitool), Miniatronics (the rc brand at hobbyshops, can get a 14g for <$4, bad thing is you don't know what type of flux they're using). Overpriced solders (no such thing as "specially formulated for rc use", 1up, trakpower, muchmore, hudy etc...). Silver solder isn't worth it, but if you must, get a kester or Loctite brand 62/36/2.

There are two types of heater technologies.
One is where the heater is in the handle, and you slide a tip over it (old technology). It takes 40+ seconds to heat up usually. Recovery times are slower.
The new technology is often called "direct-drive" or "cartridge tips". The heater is built into the tip (which makes the tips more expensive) but can heat up in less than 15 seconds, often less. Recovery times are very good.

List for first irons that I would recommend from cheapest to most expensive
- Trakpower TK60 ($16)
- Trakpower TK950 ($80)
- Miniware TS100 ($80 once you add in all the accessories)
- Hakko FX-888D ($115)
- Hakko FX-951 ($250)

Hakko - good brand, lots of fakes (buy from an official dealer like Hakko USA, Amazon and Amain are not official dealers). 1-year warranty from an official dealer. HakkoUSA has good customer service and packaging (from personal experience). Downsides are expensive, and the interface sucks.
- FX-888D - decent, 60W, uses the old heater technology. usually about $115. Can't go wrong with it, but not extraordinary.
- FX-951 - uses new direct-drive T15 tips (called T12 in other countries) tips. About $11 a tip or $3 for a counterfeit from china (lower quality, plating wears off quicker). Offers very close tip to finger distance (feels more like a pen, easier to use) usually about $250

Trakpower - owned by horizon hobby, if you can get it from a local rc hobbyshop, old technology only. The prices listed are from tower hobbies, most hobby shops will price match (at least the one I go to does) and if you race at their track, you should support them whenever you can.
- TK60 - cheapest iron I would recommend. No temp adjust, your local hobby shop can order replacement tips. $16
- TK950 ($80) and TK955 ($110) - the 55 is digital but the temps are inaccurate just save the money and get the 950. Seems to have decent resale value here on rctech. Old tip tech, slow heat up times. Hakko 936 clone. The tips are not compatible with the hakko 936 tips they are bigger. You can get an adapter although your local shop can order tips. They have a conical, a 2.4mm chisel, and 3.2 mm chisel which should be plenty for rc soldering.

KSGER - There are other brands like quicko, but KSGER seems to be the most popular.
- T12, uses hakko t15/t12 tips (new heater tech), cheap handle, cheap iron, lots of versions (confusing) 2.1s is probably the one to go for. usually about $50-60. Known safety issues (case is not grounded, uses used capacitors, heatsink crosses isolation cutout and runs over a mains trace). Wouldn't recommend as a first iron.

Miniware
- TS100, popular in the drone world, usually $60 + accessories. The 1UP ($110) is a rebranded version of this. Ralim firmware to get a 450C boost function. The Maclan ($90) is a little different, it is a rebrand of the SQ100 (a cheaper clone of the miniware TS100). All of these use TS100 style tips, which are actually just shorter Hakko T15/T12 style tips. The miniware official ones are the best quality. The 1up ones have the miniware logo on them and are the official ones. Needs a power supply or battery, ideally 24v for the max performance. Would recommend for an occasional solderer especially if you only solder at the track. Not the most ergonomic to use (its portable, what can you expect).

Weller
- WLC200 - cheap, uses old tip tech, I saw a youtube video where they opened it up and there was a bag of lead inside to make the iron feel heavier.
- Anything good from them is super expensive, would pick hakko>weller especially since the prices are comparable anyway.

Yihua, Aoyue - cheap brands from china sold on amazon. Usually clones of hakko or other irons. low quality but it works and its cheap.

JBC, ERSA, PACE - usually $500+ (PACE is more like $350-400), new tip tech, way out of normal rc budgets. Then again, they are good quality but unless you solder for living or have an unlimited budget, why...
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Old 01-18-2022 | 03:12 PM
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The Hakko FX888D digital solder station was my pick when I started my electronics hobby. Its compact design is perfect for the small tabletop I had then. Also, the separate soldering iron holder lets me place it in just the right place for my reach and the central unit closer to power outlets.
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