What are you guys weighing in at for GT12?

most tracks I’ve seen are 750 with a body that’s minimum of 50

I meant to say what are your E4's are weighing in at. Seems tough to get to that 750g even with lightweight electronics.

Who makes the 3d printed setup fixtures?

Who makes the 3d printed setup fixtures?

I was able to get my Atom down to 706g without the body. That’s with a graphite pan and removing the float for the servo. I still have most of the stock hardware but that probably only saves 2-3 grams.

Dan, right now, trimmed out for GT12, I'm at 815g.

Now, that's with the Hobbywing Justock 17.5, which we're playing with as a club-spec motor. That motor is hefty piece....haha

I’ll have my dad weight his. I ran my E4 12th scale at 750g with a hefty speedo, curious what the GT12 comes in at.

Haha, thanks for watching it! I hope it helped!

On the front ride height, I'll measure my fronts and look at my own settings when I'm home and get back to you, I feel like something is missing there...

On the Awesomatix diff, I couldn't get the spacing even left-to-right in order to run a GT12 body. I'm sure it would be just fine in LMP12. Looking at it further, I could make it fit if I were to mill some material away on the rear chassis under the pod to clear the spur, but I wanted a solution that didn't involve too much modification, so I chose the ball diff. If I'm to test a gear diff in the future, I'll definitely go with the AX unit. Fit and finish was absolutely stellar. I will say though, after using the ball diff vs. the spool in GT12, I'm completely sold on the diff. Lap times have dropped, and the drivability is way up.

As for the ball diff, I'm going to put together another video just about building the Eclipse diff, but I'll give you the cliff-notes here:

*I used the U4811 silicone nitride balls. I also used a Xenon 72t spur. Use a good quality spur by Xenon or RW if possible.

*Clean all parts thoroughly with motor spray or suitable solvent, dry and put on a clean towel.

*Use a high quality diff lube (I used 1up "Pink" lube)

*Spread a VERY thin layer of grease onto the diff rings, then wipe excess away with your finger. This will leave only a very thin film on the ring.

*Drop a small amount of lube into each hole in the diff gear where the balls will go, then install the diff balls. make sure to move each ball around in the pocket so the lube is evenly coated. Wipe any excess lube away with a clean towel. (The key here is to have as little diff lube as possible on the moving parts, this will prevent the diff from slipping excessively.)

*Use a good "Anti-Wear" grease on the thrust assembly. I used 1up "Gold" AW grease for this.

* Use a generous amount on the thrust washers and ball carriage assembly. Coat a thin layer of grease onto each cone washer, then install per instructions.

*If needed, use a fresh 4mm nylock wheel nut as your preload nut.

* Preload the diff in small increments, until there in only .25mm of axle showing past the locknut assembly. This will give you a free-feeling diff with zero slip.
If needed, adjust for more or less preload, but this an excellent starting point. I haven't had much need to preload the diff any further than this.

the part i don't understand is in the instrutions i've seen they call for 2 shims between the bearings at .010 each for a total of .020 where the spur gear goes. the part number they call for is u4112 which is a .004 shim so not sure if it's 5 .004 shims to get to .020 or maybe a misprint in the instrutions

Should just be the .010 shims x2

My E4, Ready to run. Have had the E1, E2, E3 and now that there's a new track nearby where we can Run 12th scale I decided to buy the E4.



Regards Robert

Is the carbon chassis lighter than the aluminum version? Trying to shed weight, already have Ti screws, axles and kingpins..

Yes, it's about 25g lighter.

awesome, thank you