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Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Tamiya TT02 Thread

Old 12-31-1969, 04:00 PM
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Old 11-08-2021 | 09:14 AM
  #2911  
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Originally Posted by Raman
White chassis on dirt? That’s a bad combo 😂😅
I noticed reading through the thread that you have a pretty good understanding on suspension setup amongst other things.

Couple Qs.

On my TT02R I'm running 80% of the Yeah Racing full conversion kit.
Upper arms are stock plastic front and back. I'm sure you already know why LOL.
Type-S steering.
HW EZRUN MAX10 4000kv, 5.74 FDR, locked diffs front and rear. Punch on level 3.
2s and 3s Lipo.

Obviously a speed build. I'm running the lower arms parallel to the ground, Mini CVAs with the Tamiya kit oil and the single hole discs. Kit silver springs with no spacers(Have kit greys and Yeah Racing spring set, Black, red, blue, yellow and white). Shocks mounted as close as possible to 90 degrees to the ground.

Torque steer. I know its never going to be completely gone. I use a Futaba GYC441 on AVCS around 30% and it helps massively.
The droop sleeves for the Mini CVAs; I heard you mention more droop being needed/wanted in the rear.
So would I use the longer sleeves in the front shocks and the shorter ones in the rear?
I think the droop tuning may help a little here as well.
It pulls so hard to the left, That I can get it to drift left, but when I try to drift right, it just goes straight even with the tires turned right at 100% throttle.

I know this is probably telling me something but I'm having a middle aged brain fart.

I understand droop. If what I understand is correct, removing the droop from the front will also help torque steer?

I'm not club racing with it but I might try some drag racing.
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Old 11-08-2021 | 04:06 PM
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@TurboThirdGen

well I’m over half century old fart myself lol. Ok so you have this set up as a speed run car.

My experience with TT02s is that it’s a fairly neutral chassis, not much torque steering either. Usually see that with 2wd cars.

I think you have a lot of things going on that can be causing the pull to left. Perhaps you may even over thinking what’s needed for a speed run car.

On my personal speed run car (hits 60 mph on 2S) the set up is not very far off my other cars.

Front: I have a locked diff. Shock oil 50wt. Medium spring
Rear: gear diff, 5k oil. Shock oil 50wt, medium springs. You need some diff action for speed.

Ride height is 5mm in front and 5.2 mm in rear. Since your car doesn’t have droop setting screws, the next way to measure it would be with a ride height gauge.

You place the gauge in front centre, best with bumper removed. Adjust shocks for chassis to touch gauge at 5mm. Lift the chassis with your fingers using shock tower, just enough so that tyres are on about to leave the flat service. Push ride height gauge in until it touches. If it goes in 2mm, that your droop above ride height.

For front, I would set it maybe at 1mm. Rear I would allow 2mm. This will allow good weight transfer.

In the case of your shocks, yes you would put a spacer inside to reduce droop. You will have some trial and error to get the right droop unfortunately.

Your shocks, you don’t want 90°. standing shocks up in front will give you more steering. This makes for an edgy speed run car. Standing shocks up in rear is good for straight line but less on cornering. I would go in one hole on each for starters.

Camber set at -0.1° All around. Toe I would leave it stock at whatever it is, eg 3.0° or 2.5°, it will give you straight line stability. later on tune some of it out for speed.

I’ve never used a giro, usually it’s needed for drift, not drag racing? Or is that a new thing. Not sure 🤔

Once you get past 60, you probably need to go heavier on shock oil weight and springs as the forces on suspension increase. Your also going to need to ditch rubber tyres as they won’t hold up past 60. To my knowledge they haven’t made a drag race rubber tyre for 1/10. Your best bet are foams.
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Last edited by Raman; 11-08-2021 at 04:16 PM.
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Old 11-09-2021 | 03:53 AM
  #2913  
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Hi guys loving this thread!!! Will be ordering my TT02 soon with some small upgrades. It will be just to drive around the house and some times at the local track for practices. Looking to upgrade bearings, 3 racing diffs and shocks. Which shocks would you think are better the Tamiya cva súper mini set or Yeah racing 50mm set. Thank you.
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Old 11-09-2021 | 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by lnc0321
Hi guys loving this thread!!! Will be ordering my TT02 soon with some small upgrades. It will be just to drive around the house and some times at the local track for practices. Looking to upgrade bearings, 3 racing diffs and shocks. Which shocks would you think are better the Tamiya cva súper mini set or Yeah racing 50mm set. Thank you.
The Tamiya CVA Super Mini shocks are plastic but work well, the YR set is aluminum and adds some bling and also work well. I think prices are pretty close, maybe cheaper for the YR set. Both will work fine.
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Old 11-09-2021 | 04:53 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveM
The Tamiya CVA Super Mini shocks are plastic but work well, the YR set is aluminum and adds some bling and also work well. I think prices are pretty close, maybe cheaper for the YR set. Both will work fine.
Thank you.
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Old 11-09-2021 | 07:11 AM
  #2916  
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Originally Posted by lnc0321
Thank you.
The Yeah Racing alloy shocks are available in several colours, includes the oil and several sets of springs to help dial in the ride. I used a set on an Associated TC4 years ago and they were excellent.
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Old 11-09-2021 | 08:22 AM
  #2917  
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Originally Posted by Raman
@TurboThirdGen

well I’m over half century old fart myself lol. Ok so you have this set up as a speed run car.

My experience with TT02s is that it’s a fairly neutral chassis, not much torque steering either. Usually see that with 2wd cars.

I think you have a lot of things going on that can be causing the pull to left. Perhaps you may even over thinking what’s needed for a speed run car.

On my personal speed run car (hits 60 mph on 2S) the set up is not very far off my other cars.
PB is 47mph on 2s and 63mph on 3s. Haven't topped out on 3s yet.

Front: I have a locked diff. Shock oil 50wt. Medium spring
Rear: gear diff, 5k oil. Shock oil 50wt, medium springs. You need some diff action for speed.
Kit shock oil. Do have the shock oil that came with the Yeah racing shocks, but don't see a number on there. Got some motor oil though!
So when I had an open rear diff with some AW to tighten it up, the rear end spun so much I went through tires way too fast. I would imagine suspension setup also has alot to do here.


Ride height is 5mm in front and 5.2 mm in rear. Since your car doesn’t have droop setting screws, the next way to measure it would be with a ride height gauge.

You place the gauge in front centre, best with bumper removed. Adjust shocks for chassis to touch gauge at 5mm. Lift the chassis with your fingers using shock tower, just enough so that tyres are on about to leave the flat service. Push ride height gauge in until it touches. If it goes in 2mm, that your droop above ride height.

For front, I would set it maybe at 1mm. Rear I would allow 2mm. This will allow good weight transfer.

In the case of your shocks, yes you would put a spacer inside to reduce droop. You will have some trial and error to get the right droop unfortunately.
Will do. I think the big spacers in the front and the smaller spacers in the rear may work, That'll be my first try.

Your shocks, you don’t want 90°. standing shocks up in front will give you more steering. This makes for an edgy speed run car. Standing shocks up in rear is good for straight line but less on cornering. I would go in one hole on each for starters.
Ok, makes sense. Since I'm going with straight line speed, I'll try just moving the front shock positions in a hole to lay them down.

Camber set at -0.1° All around. Toe I would leave it stock at whatever it is, eg 3.0° or 2.5°, it will give you straight line stability. later on tune some of it out for speed.
So, I have no camber adjustment currently, so 0 front and back. Also running 0 toe rear hubs. I broke both the Yeah racing 2.5 and Tamiya 3 degree hubs rather quickly. Thinking about the steel Tamiya adjustable rear plate, but thats for shaft mounted arms, and the YR toe block wont allow use of the rear bumper, which is where my body posts are.

I’ve never used a giro, usually it’s needed for drift, not drag racing? Or is that a new thing. Not sure 🤔
The Futaba GYC441 can be used for forced heading hold(AVCS) or drift mode.

Once you get past 60, you probably need to go heavier on shock oil weight and springs as the forces on suspension increase. Your also going to need to ditch rubber tyres as they won’t hold up past 60. To my knowledge they haven’t made a drag race rubber tyre for 1/10. Your best bet are foams.
I have a set of BSR 30mm foams and a set of BSR 32mm foams
Awesome thank you!

Gonna add to your quoted post in colored text.
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Old 11-09-2021 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveM
The Yeah Racing alloy shocks are available in several colours, includes the oil and several sets of springs to help dial in the ride. I used a set on an Associated TC4 years ago and they were excellent.
Before I purchase a new TT-02. I could get locally a used TA-05R. Do you think that's a better choice than a new TT-02?

Thanks again
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Old 11-09-2021 | 10:05 AM
  #2919  
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Originally Posted by TurboThirdGen
Awesome thank you!

Gonna add to your quoted post in colored text.
No no, don’t use motor oil. Just picked up some Team Associated Silicone shock oil, 50wt, 55wt, 60wt.

Definitely add camber to front and back. Zero toe in back is causing the instability. I’m running 2° In on my rear and 1° out on front
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Old 11-09-2021 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by lnc0321
Before I purchase a new TT-02. I could get locally a used TA-05R. Do you think that's a better choice than a new TT-02?

Thanks again
TA05R is a much better chassis than TT02. That’s the chassis I run for my speed runs.

However if you plan on hitting some dirty / rallye, stick with TT02.
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Old 11-09-2021 | 10:10 AM
  #2921  
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If you pick up a basic TT02 kit, in my opinion, don’t waste your money buying the CVA plastic oil filled dampers.

For the same money you can buy the Yea racing aluminium which are basically a copy of the TRF. The threaded shock collars allow you to adjust ride heigh much more accurately.

Unless your planning to race in Tamiya TCS, which only allows for Tamiya parts
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Old 11-09-2021 | 10:13 AM
  #2922  
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Originally Posted by Raman
TA05R is a much better chassis than TT02. That’s the chassis I run for my speed runs.

However if you plan on hitting some dirty / rallye, stick with TT02.
Thank you. How about parts for the TA? Would it be an issue?

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Old 11-09-2021 | 10:14 AM
  #2923  
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Originally Posted by Raman
If you pick up a basic TT02 kit, in my opinion, don’t waste your money buying the CVA plastic oil filled dampers.

For the same money you can buy the Yea racing aluminium which are basically a copy of the TRF. The threaded shock collars allow you to adjust ride heigh much more accurately.

Unless your planning to race in Tamiya TCS, which only allows for Tamiya parts
Thank you
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Old 11-09-2021 | 10:22 AM
  #2924  
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Originally Posted by Raman
No no, don’t use motor oil. Just picked up some Team Associated Silicone shock oil, 50wt, 55wt, 60wt.

Definitely add camber to front and back. Zero toe in back is causing the instability. I’m running 2° In on my rear and 1° out on front
I do have non-detergent oil if that's the issue.

What's the most robust option for rear toe? I'm using the body posts on the rear bumper so need the rear bumper to be attached.
I could fabricate something. I'd 3d print something but no plans openly available and I haven't taken the plunge into designing yet.
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Old 11-09-2021 | 11:44 AM
  #2925  
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The current state of the chassis.
Upon further looking at the yeah racing rear toe mount, It might work with the bumper; I just need a caliper measurement from the front to back of the adjustable mount where the screws go.






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